Turbone

Isnt it past your bedtime?

Thats great to hear. Sounds like your getting spoiled to me Btw, I still have the PW control panel for it, I'm just waiting for $ to ship it to you.

The pump is no where near wore out. Your oil pressure is common when warmed up and most will drop to zero at idle.

Sure its not the drain for the AC?

The tensioner pulley should be top center. I looked at my 82 FSM and it doesnt show a 2 groove pulley on the WP. There should be a idler pulley down to the right of the WP. The FSM actually sucks for this because its all broken up in different chapters :-\

Tom, I dont think this is possible. If the shaft didnt go into the pilot bearing, the tranny would not mate up to the bellhousing. I would remove the cable from the clutch fork and check the movement of the cable, it needs to move freely in and out.

Try readjusting the cable. If this doesnt work the clutch might have been installed incorrectly. Was it done by a shop or by you? Its possible to install the clutch disc backwards and it will not shift worth a %#^%$ if so.

The axle may not be seating all the way into the hub. I have also heard of some hubs having short splines in them.

Packing strap (metal) is good for making a slimjim Dont ask...

You may just have to put up with it until they break in. Find a good hill and go down it a few times, or (I hate to say it) ride the brakes for a few miles and see if they still grind. If it keeps doing it and you cant stand the noise, you may think about getting different brake pads.

You can email the pics to me, I can post them. I will take a look at my XT6 in the morn, I'll be able to tell you about the fuel lines then. Believe it or not, I'm sicker than a dog and dont want to go outside and look right now :-\

Check your e-brake, it might be on a little.

The closest Soob dealer to him is probably 1.5hrs away (I used to live in Ruidoso). The others are right about the window trick, if you can get something long,skinny and stiff (no jokes please) to go thru the window crack on the b-pillar and try and push the other lock. Or make a slimjim out of flat flexible metal with a hook on the end and slide it down the outside of the window, trying to get the lock to trip that way.

Might want to check the fluid in the diff. Its on the passenger side behind the bell housing, a short dipstick.

The power steering is electric and is situated on the passenger side firewall. It kind of looks like a starter motor. The controller is to the right of it, a small sqaure black box. They dont go out very often, but the motor can. The most common problem with the motor is the brushes, but its an easy fix. Its just like any other electric motor brush and they can be found at any place they rebuild electric motors. If the steering acts up intemmitanly, just tap the motor on the right end, this usually settles the dust that has built up and is causing the brushes not to conduct. The fuel filter should have 2(?) lines, one for the filter and a return vapor line.

A picture is worth a thousand words

Dont know the color code but its a med silver/gray, and the antenna is on the passenger side :-\ Hey! Dual antennas!

Looks like a welcoming party is in order

What color silver and what side is the antenna on? Might have one.

T-stats can fail either open or closed. If you can spend the money for a new rad, whats a couple more bucks for a new t-stat?

Sounds like your timing is off. Do you have a timing light? You also need to connect the green test plugs at the ECU (under the rear dash panel). Slight miss could mean plugs/wires/cap. The clicking could be a CV joint going bad.

If your looking to transplant the engine from your wagon into a EA81 wagon, you may be looking at more work than repairing what you have now.

Its going to take alot of labor, mainly the rad support. May have to remove it to straighten it out, the engine is in the way of the hammer. And thats something you dont want to use the come along on. Other than that I think its all good to go for replacement parts. May have to make some adjustments here and there, but it shouldnt be to bad. Now granted, its not going to be perfect, like Gary said, but it will be driveable and who knows, it might turn out better than you think. I start back to school on the 26th, let me know what you want to do and when.

If you take material from the head surface, wouldnt this increase the comp ratio?

The idea is to mill the turbo pistons to gain a little more comp, as compared to refitting with SPFI pistons. I think it might compramise the ring integrity if they were milled tho. 9.5:1 comp on SPFI pistons is alot for a turbo, altho theres a few running the setup. But its a interesting idea there Oddcomp.