Turbone

You can email the pics to me, I can post them. I will take a look at my XT6 in the morn, I'll be able to tell you about the fuel lines then. Believe it or not, I'm sicker than a dog and dont want to go outside and look right now :-\

Check your e-brake, it might be on a little.

The closest Soob dealer to him is probably 1.5hrs away (I used to live in Ruidoso). The others are right about the window trick, if you can get something long,skinny and stiff (no jokes please) to go thru the window crack on the b-pillar and try and push the other lock. Or make a slimjim out of flat flexible metal with a hook on the end and slide it down the outside of the window, trying to get the lock to trip that way.

Might want to check the fluid in the diff. Its on the passenger side behind the bell housing, a short dipstick.

The power steering is electric and is situated on the passenger side firewall. It kind of looks like a starter motor. The controller is to the right of it, a small sqaure black box. They dont go out very often, but the motor can. The most common problem with the motor is the brushes, but its an easy fix. Its just like any other electric motor brush and they can be found at any place they rebuild electric motors. If the steering acts up intemmitanly, just tap the motor on the right end, this usually settles the dust that has built up and is causing the brushes not to conduct. The fuel filter should have 2(?) lines, one for the filter and a return vapor line.

A picture is worth a thousand words

Dont know the color code but its a med silver/gray, and the antenna is on the passenger side :-\ Hey! Dual antennas!

Looks like a welcoming party is in order

What color silver and what side is the antenna on? Might have one.

T-stats can fail either open or closed. If you can spend the money for a new rad, whats a couple more bucks for a new t-stat?

Sounds like your timing is off. Do you have a timing light? You also need to connect the green test plugs at the ECU (under the rear dash panel). Slight miss could mean plugs/wires/cap. The clicking could be a CV joint going bad.

If your looking to transplant the engine from your wagon into a EA81 wagon, you may be looking at more work than repairing what you have now.

Its going to take alot of labor, mainly the rad support. May have to remove it to straighten it out, the engine is in the way of the hammer. And thats something you dont want to use the come along on. Other than that I think its all good to go for replacement parts. May have to make some adjustments here and there, but it shouldnt be to bad. Now granted, its not going to be perfect, like Gary said, but it will be driveable and who knows, it might turn out better than you think. I start back to school on the 26th, let me know what you want to do and when.

If you take material from the head surface, wouldnt this increase the comp ratio?

The idea is to mill the turbo pistons to gain a little more comp, as compared to refitting with SPFI pistons. I think it might compramise the ring integrity if they were milled tho. 9.5:1 comp on SPFI pistons is alot for a turbo, altho theres a few running the setup. But its a interesting idea there Oddcomp.

Ok, now I'm cornfused Both rings have beveled edges, but only one has the one edge beveled? I see nothing of that in the FSM. Not sure, but I would assume the bevel goes down.

Sure, you can buy the good stuff at any parts store. Most major wax brands make it.

The EA82T pistons are dished and produce a compression ratio of 7.7:1 The EA82 SPFI compression ratio is 9.5:1 The EA82 NA compression ratio is 9.0:1

Was your old car a EA and the newer one a EJ?

The ring with the step on it, is the top ring. And the one with no step is the 2nd ring.

Here you go, check this out. And its fairly close too. Craigslist

I'm looking at a EA81 FSM and they show 2 diag. The marks go up, the top ring has beveled edges, the 2nd ring has sharp edges and the oil ring either has a second ridge under the top rail or even rails, so that doesnt make a difference. Do you know the positions and gaps for the rings? I can scan the FSM and post it?

Thats what I had for WCSS6, it was a 16x16 with zippered openings on all 4 sides. I ended up taking it back to WalMart and getting a refund. All the zippers broke

Whatever you do, dont use dishsoap on the exterior paint. It leaches out the oils in the paint and dulls the finish.

Definatly check the tag on the diff, I think it might be 4.11.