Turbone

The FP is only supposed to operate when the key is turned to the start position, not the on position. Run a ground wire to the pump and see if the car will start.

Yes, theres 2 relays under the passenger seat(this is what my 84 T-Coupe had, not sure about NA). One is for the ignition the other is FP relay. But I would make sure the pump is grounded, maybe run a test wire from the pump to a good ground source to check it.

I had to do something like this with a engine swap in my RX. The disty's were different. The wires that go into the disty are plugged into the bottom. Remove the rubber grommet and I think 2 screws then unplug it, then replace with the other harness.

Not likely, you might have the linkage out of adjustment or some debris jamming it.

Ewww, hope none of that got sucked into your carb, its a common malady with those air suction valves. As to removing it, I dont know. I think Edrach and a few others have more experiance with them than me.

Hmmm, swap out old rotten rear suspension, replace with another old rotten rear suspension Expect to replace it again sometime in the future.

I think I have a set of those.

When it gets dark tonight I'll take a pic of my GL-10 Turbo Wagon. I think the display is florescent, but not 100% on that. I know the 83/84 digidashes are.

Do we know you? Sorry, couldnt help myself. Got to offer something, like food, brew, girls (oops, nevermind that). I cant make nights tho, sorry

Sorry I missed the fun :-\ But thats tame stuff compared to what we usually do, like up at Evans Creek. Which I am seriously jonesing for Oh yeah, welcome to the club

EA82 rear shocks and any aftermarket stuff for them. Legacy front struts, with the same as above. I think Imp struts will work on the front also, but you need to swap hubs to do it.

Uh, waaaayyyy to big. I dont mind looking at the car, but I dont need to see the whole freaking countryside. Please in the future resize your pics before posting.

Eh? Do they sell these on the Is. only? I dont think she can afford everything you listed, but it would sure be nice if you donated some

Cold spot on the bottom of the rad after it reaches running temp means the rad needs a good flushing or re-core, or even replaced. Try a good flush first, might want to check the other water lines too.

FYI, the TCU is behind the drivers side seat in the quarter panel. Thats if you have a 4EAT

Timing and then the catalitic conveter (cat). Seriously consider getting a manual for it, even a Chiltons is better than nothing.

You dont need to remove any panels. Open the trunk and on the left side of the right rear speaker is the computer. There are 2 connectors, one green and one black. For more info on the procedure, go to XT6.net.

Noah, those pics are so dark I can barely make out what they are

Didnt we already have a "Who's Who of Lifted Rigs"? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16637

I've been real lucky so far, out of the 20 or so Soobs that I've had not to many had alot of problems at once. Sounds like you got one of those "Lemons" tho

This might be from the water pump. Seeing how you just got the car, it would also be a good idea to install new timing belts. Fairly easy job but can be tricky for a noob. Theres a description of the change in the USRM here. If the car is AWD there is no indication that the car is in 4wd, its always engaged. If theres a button on the shifter, then its on demand 4wd and there should be a indicator on the inst panel.

Wrap a rag around the filter and hose end when you remove it. This will help with the spray.

Yup, thats the torque tube, or suspension tube. If that broke off on the end, you will need to replace the whole rear end. On a 2wd thats a major part of the suspension and without it, its real unsafe (if not impossible) to drive. But like Humble said, aint never seen one break before, not like that. The car must have come from a high road salt area, is all I can say You can remove the trailing arms from the main part of the suspension and then remove the tube and mounts.

Can you come up with some more details? Theres alot of grey area in your explanation :cool:

I'm also interested in a price for the moulding. I am going to replace the WS in my 86 wagon and I know the moulding will be messed up during removal. Btw, the urethane isnt cheap, about $10 a tube and 2 are needed (for me anyways).