Turbone

Timing and then the catalitic conveter (cat). Seriously consider getting a manual for it, even a Chiltons is better than nothing.

You dont need to remove any panels. Open the trunk and on the left side of the right rear speaker is the computer. There are 2 connectors, one green and one black. For more info on the procedure, go to XT6.net.

Noah, those pics are so dark I can barely make out what they are

Didnt we already have a "Who's Who of Lifted Rigs"? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16637

I've been real lucky so far, out of the 20 or so Soobs that I've had not to many had alot of problems at once. Sounds like you got one of those "Lemons" tho

This might be from the water pump. Seeing how you just got the car, it would also be a good idea to install new timing belts. Fairly easy job but can be tricky for a noob. Theres a description of the change in the USRM here. If the car is AWD there is no indication that the car is in 4wd, its always engaged. If theres a button on the shifter, then its on demand 4wd and there should be a indicator on the inst panel.

Wrap a rag around the filter and hose end when you remove it. This will help with the spray.

Yup, thats the torque tube, or suspension tube. If that broke off on the end, you will need to replace the whole rear end. On a 2wd thats a major part of the suspension and without it, its real unsafe (if not impossible) to drive. But like Humble said, aint never seen one break before, not like that. The car must have come from a high road salt area, is all I can say You can remove the trailing arms from the main part of the suspension and then remove the tube and mounts.

Can you come up with some more details? Theres alot of grey area in your explanation :cool:

I'm also interested in a price for the moulding. I am going to replace the WS in my 86 wagon and I know the moulding will be messed up during removal. Btw, the urethane isnt cheap, about $10 a tube and 2 are needed (for me anyways).

Well, if theres that much scoring in the cylinders you can just about bet that the main bearings are not looking good either. If you want to build the engine, start from the bottom and work up. Ok, after re-reading your last post I think I understand what you are asking. Yes, the block should be fine. After honing and new parts it should be good to go.

If you plan on beefing up the block it would make sense to get the better rings for it too. I would start looking at some internet sites (theres a few for Soobs, cant recall tho) and see what the prices are for some good rings. Stretch, this is common for most Subaru engines. You wont see significant wear until they get over 200K. Unless they were used and abused, like lack of oil changes, etc.

The term actually comes from the Bobcat. You know, bob tail (or the lack of)? The term is even used in trucking, which means to run without a trailer behind you.

Any time you use rope, it can stretch. This will make the load unbalanced, not good. You can get a short length of chain, about 16in, form a Hardware Store. Get a couple of bolts and nuts that will fit thru the chain links. On the rear of the engine where the pitch stopper bolts on there is a loop on the mount, attach one end of the chain there. You can use the powersteering bracket on the front of the engine for the other end. You will have to pursuade the the engine off the bellhousing, they are usually stuck together pretty good. I like using a block of wood and a hammer. If the car is a AT, you will need to remove the flexplate bolts thru the starter hole, this can be a little tricky so be patient.

Well, its not super extreme, it still has ISP. But it does have 8in of body lift with the engine sitting on a subframe, divorced Nissan t-case and some real fat 30" Swampers. As of this time it hasnt had a real test yet, HP style. I hope to before winter hits Oh yeah, it doesnt need to be bobbed

Sounds like the PVC system is totally clogged. Change the valve and take the hoses off and check them, they could be clogged up with residue.

Looks like its from high mileage. Might want to re-hone the cylinders before re-using.

No and yes. It wont just bolt on and yes, it will take extensive modding to get it to fit. If it will at all.

You can try it, just torque the nut down real good.

And in a few years you can re-write that, just up grade the CPU

The cone washer, then the outer washer (with the hump facing out). If you have a breaker bar, use it. I would even put a piece of pipe on it and jump and down to tighten it (unless you weigh over 150lbs). Altho I have stripped out a nut doing this, I believe it was from a aftermarket axle. The aftermarket reman axles are notorious for being bad out of the box, keep an eye on them.

Now theres a brave soul Personally, I prefer the rotor in front, not on top This is also the first I've heard of the EA being used in this configuration. Details? But welcome to the Board, Ben

It appears that way So the laptop has a new home?

Hey Chaz, I see in your last pics that theres a old Dodge Power Wagon in the background. More info? I'm a big fan of the 40's/50's Power Wagons.

Ditto what Gary said At the time of production, the XT was designed to have the same drag co-effecient of the Corvette. Click on the link in Gary's sig to got to the "Official" XT site.