Turbone

My old EA81T ran fine on regular, I think thats 89? Make sure you have the timing set accurately. Might check the gap on the sparkplugs also.

You may want to post this again over in the Marketplace. And btw, your motor is a 1.8.

Why dont you go out and count them?

The only other thing I can think of to check then is the trailing arm, to see if its straight or not. The shock is ok, I assume?

You might want to jack the car up and see if the rear bearings are not loose. I'm not positive, but I dont think the rear is adjustable.

You will have to disconnect the computer then because it will try and over ride the inputs that you are giving it. Then you have more problems because then you have nothing telling the compressor to start and fill the tank. The solenoids are one way btw. When you open the air goes in and out. I think your making it more complicated by trying to manually adjust them individualy. Does the system work correctly now? And why would you want to do this?

I dont know if it was my post or not, but I've done it recently. Bought the hardware at Napa, its just a air shock line kit. Comes with the Schrader valve, you need 2 kits tho. Unless you can find/make a tee with a schrader on it. You need to cut the air lines between the compressor and the solenoids, the 2 lines for the front shocks on one valve and the same for the rears. It can all be done at the left shock tower. Now you need to pull the big black flat connector loose so you can get to it. There are 4 wires that control the solenoids on each shock. Drivers side front is black-green Pass side front is yellow-green Drivers side rear is yellow-blue Pass side rear is green-white. These are all on one side of the connector and easy to see. What you need to do is wire these to a switch to grnd, this will open them to fill the shocks. I wired the fronts together and the rears together, that way I filled the fronts together equally, the same for the rears. But after all the work and money I spent doing this, they still leaked! The whole system was shot, even the body of the solenoids were leaking. I replaced o-rings and went thru everything but still had problems. So today I finished installing the rear coilovers on it. The fronts I did last week. No more problems :cool: If your system is in good condition this is an option, but it really doesnt fix it.

Thats spot on. I think everyone here(almost) thats bought re-man have had them go out right away or soon after. If you think you have the original axles or OEM axles, KEEP them. Replace the boot(s) and run them till they fall off.

Thanks for repeating what I already said Baja

Wish I would have seen this when you posted it. I talked to him quite abit at the show, and got his biz card too.

Yup, 2wd and 4wd axles are different in size. You can use a 2wd in a pinch with no problems on the road.

That was Jerry-bratsrus1. bratsrus1

At your service

My 92 Mazda has this setup and I've taken it out on occasion with the HP and its gone where they have (dents included). Isnt the reason for more lift(more than 4in?) in a solid rear axle setup is the room needed for the T-Case?

Where are you getting them from Tex?

No spacer needed. The only difference is that the AT starter is supposed to turn a little faster.

Where exactly is the crack at? If its between the valves they should be fine. If theres a crack going up into the exhaust port(water jacket), then its toast. Gary has a point about the timing, which contributes to pre-detonation(might be other contributers). There has been a rash of blown HG's here that might be due to this. Or it could be a cheap gasket, I recommend OEM gaskets if possible.

You might have better luck finding a parts car and swapping in whats missing. Not to many here have done AC installs (that I know of).

Or chase a cat under the car and see what type of grease is on its fur when it comes out

From what I understand (and a little seat of the pants), its a hair bigger.

Hmm, he sold it back in Sept. Are you playing catch up?

You can also upgrade the turbo by replacing it with one from a EA82T. Just make sure you use the crossover pipe and downpipe.

I beg to differ. The 84 T-Coupe I sold to Mr. Carb has it, and I have had 4 others that were also. When they first came out they were not water cooled, then the dealers called them back (not a recall) and refitted them with turbo's that were watercooled.

If you do drop the 4spd in, make sure you replace the clutch with the best and strongest you can get. The 4spd doesnt like the torque from the turbo Hopefully the engine has the upgraded turbo, with water cooling.

Remove the disty, remove the #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the hole then turn the engine by hand. When you feel the air being pushed out of the cylinder then you have it at TDC. Line up the rotor just to the right of the plug wire on the disty cap and when you set it in it should be lined up.