Turbone

Are the heads yours or from rguyver? It almost sounds like the valves are bent. Or you could be right and the rings are toast. What about the DP? Is it gutted? Maybe plugged, but that doesnt explain the bad compression. Your also right about the carby short block, alot easier to find

Hey Kowboy, seeing how I'm just down the Hwy from you, whats this local yard in Enumclaw? Welcome to the board btw.

This mod has been done by several so far. It should have a write up and be in the USRM soon. Havent heard of anyone frying their wiring yet.

For those of us that know the shortcut for replacing a heater core, there are the guys in the shops that dont, and end up doing it by the book. That means taking the entire dash out, then the housing that holds the core. Then you have to split that to remove the core. Then you have the fun of putting it all back together Now, what would you charge to do that? Granted, I wouldnt charge as much as the shop did, they usually have a high overhead Roundeye, my sympathies go out to you

Wow, what are the chances of this happening again? :cool: Its good to know the car is finally running without problems. It seems that this issue isnt that common, tho I know theres a few folks out there that have had some type of fuel problems. I wonder if its due to your location and availability of gas?

Welcome to the board. I dont know why you brought up a post thats almost a year old tho? What are you searching for? Theres quite a few full time mechs on the board and we have alot of Tech School students also. Unfortunatly, the original poster never came back to tell us if the car got fixed and what the problem was. Even tho I did state that it could be a disty going bad, I now think it could have been the coil. Its been a current problem here lately.

I just replaced the air shocks on my XT6 with standard struts. On the older rigs and especially yours with the overheating issue, the system just keeps getting worse. It will keep going bad no matter how much you fix it. My car only has 80K on it, but the system was nickle and dimeing me to death. I actually found on my last leak that one of the seloniods on a shock was leaking, that was the last straw. You wont regret the switch.

I suggest replacing the switch with a JY one. I just replaced a switch because the panel had no lights at all, when they were working fine before I tore the panel apart Btw, what year is the car? It matters, the 85/86 had the switch on the panel, the ones after that had it on the turn signal arm. The later ones will be more difficult to replace, I think you have to remove the steering wheel to replace the switch.

Well, this will make you sick. If I had know you needed glass last week, I could have got it for you. The 3dr got hauled to the crusher

3 days before my 82 Hatch was to hit 300K, I got T-Boned.

Wow, thats rough :-\ But its fixable with hard work and $. If it had the 5spd D/R w/DL, it would be just like mine Did you try and talk him down on the price?

But its just not feasable to hack up your suspension if its for a EA81.

The rad has to be for an auto and from a EA81. A 2 row would be nice if your going to buy new. Sorry to hear about the T-Coupe Glad your kid is ok. Just thought about it for a sec. You can use any EA81 rad, you will have to install a remote tranny cooler tho. Which really isnt a bad idea. Mine had one.

Check all the hoses and lines, time will dry out the rubber. It night be a good idea to change the timing belts, even tho they get changed at 60K, it has been sitting for quite a while. Make sure nothing made a home in the heater ducts, nothing smells worse than mouse droppings. Welcome to the board, and congrats on the car. Thats got to be a first around here, 13,000mi, wow

If it overheated enough, it could have fried the main bearings.

Did you check the heads for cracks?

It sounds like the alternator is bad, sometimes the testers arent used correctly(I never trust Schucks). I would replace it with a rebuilt or new(if you can afford new). Edit, John, you got me all screwed up! I read the post agian and thought- Now where did my reply go? And I reposted too You can leave the rad in, just remove the fan and stuff in the way. Belt covers will have to come off unfortunatly.

Me thinks Shucks dont know how to test a alternator. For sure its bad, and needs to be replaced.

You need a spring compressor to remove the shock. Your better off getting a new set of coilover shocks. Or find another set in the JY.

Bummer for me But I'll get over it. Give him my name when he wants to get rid of it. But thats a nice hatch

Sent you a email yesterday about it, I guess you didnt get it? But if didnt go thru heres what I got, RX with 5spd D/R and difflock both shafts, cup to cup-55 1/4in The XT6 with FT 4EAT, same measurements-50 1/2in

How my supposed to sleep tonight now? Should be sweet dreams, I hope Cant wait to see the stuff on the car.

That could be the diff between OEM and aftermarket.

You didnt mention the mileage on the belt that broke. Maybe if you had covers on them, it might not have :-\

Yes, welcome to the USMB And did you hack the lid of your wagon?