Turbone

Hmmm, almost starting to sound like the coil is going on the fritz. Easy swap out, replace with a new one. Try and avoid Accel tho :-\

Hmm, you have been busy. Hope to see you and your car at the show :cool:

Its most likely because there isnt a good seal anymore. Pull out the bulb and look at the socket. Does it have a o-ring? Is it dried up? If so, it needs to be replaced. But I dont have a clue where to get one except from a JY :-\

The bolt patterns on the EA81 and Ea82 are the same. Here's a link to Mudrats prop; EJ adapter plate

White - Top Red - 2nd Yellow - 3rd And I assume the black is the bottom hose. The order is from top down.

Your lucky, a stub is alot easier/faster to change than a tranny. Cant wait to see the car at the show :cool:

You dont work 24hrs a day do you? Show up after work, there will be plenty goings on till the wee hours (well, maybe)

Tex, dont feel to bad. I'm on my 4th motor :-\ And I havent even got it running yet. Its really hard to find a EA82T that doesnt have scored/pitted cyl walls. Even when they run ok, and you know its got a bad HG, they still do a number on the walls. The motor I have partially completed was pitted in 2 cyl's and I honed them as best I could but, I dont trust it. I picked up another EA82T last Fri and I still have to pull the pass side head off to see what the damage is. It ran on 2 cyl before we pulled it, but it ran. The motor I took out of the XT ran better than that and it had 2 real bad cyl's. I guess when your upping the boost, any bad spots in the cyl walls is going to leak, leading to lots of problems. I dont know how thick the walls are, meaning if you decide to bore it out any there might be some issues with that. Re-sleeving is an option, but I dont have any idea what that would run, and that involves a complete rebuild. I hate to say it buddy, but I'm learning from your mistakes

Heres something to look at.

I think some of the RS 3 doors came with sunroofs. I have a pic of one, but I'm at work right now.

Hey Zap, is Sean and the car going to be at the show?

Drive on!

Glad to hear you got it running. But just a little correction on your problem. It was the fuel filter that was clogged, right?

Do you have rear disc brakes or drums? If they are drum brakes, they can be adjusted. There is a square peg on the bottom of the drum that can be turned to push the brake shoes out. When they hit the drum, back them off just a hair. If you have rear discs, then you may need to bleed the brakes. Make sure you have good pads all the way around.

Nope, want the touring wagon :cool:

If you could hang on to it for another 4/5 months, I might be interested.

Used to belong to Jason H. He made the lift for it and did something else that I cant recall. Surprised its still there.

Sorry, but a little ole set screw isnt going to hold that steering shaft. Remember what happened to me last year at Rieter Pit? Due to my (ahem) lack of welding experience, that same piece broke on me after hitting a log at an angle. I was stuck there for 3hrs waiting for Austin to bring me another shaft extension. You should be able to remove the piece from the joint and bottom flange and take it to someone that can weld it (right).

I dont claim to be a serious expert on dashes, but I have worked on a few If you dont have any electronics training/background, dont even attempt it. Even changing over to a EA81 digidash is a feat, and you want to change over to something thats not even close (except being from a Soob). If you think the dash is cool, go buy yourself an XT

If you want to check to see if the FP is working, just drop the panel under the steering column and connect the 2 wires with the green plugs. This will put the car in test mode and will run the FP continuous when the key is on, you should be able to hear the pump running from the back.

You can go ahead and try everyones ideas, but the first thing I would do is loosen the gas cap and see if the problem continues. If not, its obvious...you need a new gas cap. I actually bought a 85 GL wagon with this problem. Got it for $10, and sold it for $300. If the problem is still there, replace the fuel filter and check the relay.

Glad to hear your ok, make sure her insuarance company pays for all Dr bills. Hate to say it, but your car is FUBAR

On what car? Most of the connectors in question are for testing at the Dealership. And some are for accessories that are not installed that might be later.

Welcome to the Board and to Subaru's Your first problem sounds like the temp sensor. Dont confuse this with the temp sending unit. The temp sensor tells the ECU if the engine is hot or cold, then adjust the injectors and choke accordingly. Could just be a dirty connection at the plug. Not sure about the location on the XT6 but it may be just to the left and in front of the bellhousing/clutch. Cylinder shaped and stands straight up. Might be green also. The noisy lifters are commomn on this models. The fix is easy and inexpensive. Go to the dealer and get a oil pump rebuild kit, it just a modified o-ring that we call a Mickeymouse seal. Theres also a seal for the shaft. Fixing the first problem might fix the 3rd problem.

The heatshield on the cross over pipe helps protect the oil pump from high heat. Plus the oil line to the turbo is right there, not to mention the oil cooler not to far away either. If you can remove enough to weld the pipe then replace it again, it will help keep the heat off. I've been thinking of a wrap for a while, but these hold heat in and can make the pipe crack again(this is where a ceramic coated pipe would be great). I also leave the skid plate off so air circulates in the engine compartement better.