Turbone

I already have a "hoard" of Alloys (no 14's), but I am missing a few to make comp[lete sets. I'll need to take a count when the sun is up and edit my post. But I'll take any centercaps you might find. Shipping will be a bit cheaper too

Put your reading glasses on Corky He asked when , not what.

Did you put the old coil back on and try it? Dont even need to attach it to the fender, just hook the wires up. Ignition switch problems are common with the 84 and earlier cars, but can go bad in later ones too I guess. You can take of the plastic covers on the steering colume, then on the left side is the back side of the switch held on by 2 screws. Remove the switch and turn it manualy with screwdriver, coin or key.

Looks good, but needs improvement. Like ... "Made in Japan" "Modified in America"

Whats the timing set at? Qman had to advance his to (I think) 18deg with the Delta cams.

Yes you can put the 2wd tranny in, and no you cant put the 4wd part on the 2wd part. But, it sounds like the front diff went out. If possible you might be able to replace the front diff with the one from the 2wd. I'm not 100% on this, I'm sure someone here will say yea or nea.

A suspension lift puts to much strain on the equipment, thats why we dont do it. As for the pic up above....ewww

I know you may be tight for money, but its a good idea to replace the water pump when you do the belts. It saves alot of headaches down the road. Alot of us will do a complete re-seal of the front when the belts are changed. Not necessary tho, unless you have alot of leaks.

No, horizontal or vertical. It seems the coils do not like being placed horizontal, the fluid in it will not cool properly.

Do you still have the old coil? Try putting that back in and see if the problem goes away. I say that becuase we having been having a unusual amount of failures with Accel 8140 coils. It may be because of the direction of placement, this hasnt been determined for sure yet. There are some that havent had any problems with the direction of placement, but I think they are older models. Anyways, try using the old coil and see if this works. If not I guess you need the part # for the transistor (which I dont have, sorry).

You may have loosened the pipe to the WP. All it has to seal it is a O-ring. Its held on by a bracket on the head I believe, so remove the bolt and hose clamp at radiator. Then pull the pipe out and use a small amount of sealer and see if the parts store can get you another O-ring. If this doesnt do the trick, you need to remove the T-belt cover and see if the water is coming from the weep hole on the WP. If so, it means you need a new WP.

Or it could be something even simpler and not related to the sensor. Have you checked the timing lately? It cant hurt to check, and these are classic symptoms. And definatly clean the terminals, it will probably get rid of the trouble code. And Corky, sometimes............

If it was the disty module, it would die after running for a little bit. It could be the Ign Amp, even after your fix it still may not be working right. Ed has the setup you need, you might end up with some spare parts, but thats a plus. What type of coil did you put on?

Nice work on the fabrication, Dave. BUT, I'm a little surprised that someone that lives in W. Wa. would have a intake like that so close to the ground. Keep us updated when it rains :-p It looks like your not afraid to cut sheet metal, so if your not using the spare tire area this would be a good place to mount the intake. Isolate it by building a wall around it, then put a scoop on the hood. I think this would give more air and keep it away from the water.

Mick, if you can get gold, I'll take another USMB one.

Ed, grass and rocks will clean it off nicely

When you say Factory, do you mean Dealer? From the description you are giving, it sounds like a rebuild not new. Very unusual to have any rebuild to die like that, unless they forgot to do something. Did they do anything about the exhaust? The symptoms sound like a plugged catalytic converter. This engine is a EA82, which is a non-interference engine. If the belts break it wont damage the engine. I would have the car towed back to where they worked on it and have them look at it. And hopefully fix it for free. What kind of warranty did you get?

5spd D/R is the way to go on this. I was planning on doing it, just other things came up The driveline is the only thing that needs to be sent out, I think it needs to be lengthened. Not 100% sure on that tho, but someone told me that the 5spd D/R is shorter that the 4wd AT.

Before the AT went out on my 84 Turbo Coupe, I had it doing 86mph up a steep hill (to Bonney Lk). It holds the road well, but I'm not sure where I would take it to find its top speed It will definatly go over 100mph.

NJK? Who the heck is that? Thanks Oob

Well, here's some general answers :-p Dont change from FI to N/A, not worth the hassle. Besides, its a better setup. Yes, a K&N filter will do wonders on your FI. Make sure you get all the adapters. Theres alot of brands for plug wires, I suggest the best 8mm wire you can get. As for plugs, nothing but NJK.

I'll take 2 USMB logo's. I would like a W/S sticker, does the price depend on how many words?

What, that your actually working and not out causing trouble?

Its pretty slow tonight, thought I would liven things up a little

You trying to answer every thread today?