Turbone

It sounds like pre-detonation, usually due to bad timing. Have you done a tune up of any sort to the engine. What kind of maintenance, besides putting water in it, have you done?

Btw, it looks to be a touring wagon. Ever wonder why the wagons fly better?

No, but it probably wont sound right. Always read the instructions supplied with your unit before installing (CYA).

The only obvious way is if there is a label on the valve covers. It will say not to adjust the valves, because the are Hydraulic. There are some differences in cams with certain years of Brats, but as far as I know there is no way to ID them from outside.

That top pic looks like it was dropped out of thin air:0 That had to hurt.

The front speakers are ok, but you should run new wires to the rear. Its a common ground thing from Subaru.

No, the car is legit. How else could it sell on Ebay? Its been on the board before also, about 3 years ago I believe. And there were more pics of it with alot better info. Someone here should have the complete low down of it.

PB Blaster is what its called. Should be able to get it at the parts store the same time you get the plastic $3 clutch alignment tool.

I think you missed something Miles. He said it needed a over drive. It obviously has a Auto Tranny in it :-\ Its normal to run at 3200rpm/65mph. Unfortunatly, altho you did get a nice car, the AT's that Subaru put out are of not top quality. Do a search here for some of the problems that arise from these. Some of the fixes are easy, but the hard one is to swap trannies, and put in a 5spd. The moon roof is stock, and yes - its huge (thats for the ejection seats. J/K) Its good that the cooling system is working well, on the Turbo's this is essential. Keep a close eye on it. And welcome to the board, your in the right place.

Meat, you better check your map again. Graham is down south, east of Tacoma. Key word is Hwy 7.

Eh, never do the happy dance till the car is in your possesion

Check the fuses. Most of us here are not to familiar with your cars setup, so we may not be able to give precise instructions. But generaly we check the fuses when something stops working.

Pull the coil wire off the disty and see if your getting spark there. And check all wiring, if the coil wire came loose, something else might have also.

Here is a article on the wiring. http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29dd8b797565.58568597/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2e1983b92179.98068180.art Might do some reading here, but most of the post were from Feb. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=18052

You might have one of the last bunch made. Newer materials in it, and just maybe a few better/upgraded parts in it. Or it could even be a rebuild, or (shudder) a new one bought from the stealer $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

The N/A intake has no tube for the cooling of the turbo. It has to be drilled and tapped and a line ran to it. The EGR is another, but I'm not sure yet what needs to be done with that. Also, the wiring for the TPS is a little different and needs to have a wire or two spliced. SubaruTex has done the transplant, and the install should be in the archives (search). This is the first I've heard anything about the injectors being different yet, but they are both MPFI.

Only if you dont have a/c. The cooler is in the way. If not, you wont need the grill, it can be cut to fit.

Timing belts and cooling system. Find out if either one has been serviced recently. If you want piece of mind replace the belts and flush the cooling system.

The 86 GL-10 Turbo Wagon with digidash came with it. :cool: There might be some other models that had the digidash with the buzz/whistle/ring.

Hmm, normally its at 3K in the T-Wagon. It gets better MPG that way. But just last week I went thru $20 of gas in 2 days. Mine is equipped with a whistle when you hit 6500. And I was hitting it often.

That depends on what me and the Tech agree on. I would like to have people send their old ones in, and in return we give them a working dash. So the old one would be a core charge. So the more cores we have, the more working ones we would have available. Of course, no core and it will cost a little more, but who doesnt have a non-working digidash? Yea I know, not to many of us. We will have to sit down and figure out how much labor is going to be, because we all know parts arent that expensive. Unless its a hard to find one. The rebuilds might have built in breakers also, so if there is a spike, it will trip the breaker, not burn up the internals. This could bring up the cost a little. But I am hoping to have them cheaper than $100, but thats not set in stone yet. Not trying to under cut you Andrew, you only have 1 dash.

I had problems with the dash in my 84 Turbo Coupe, and went and put in a analog temp, oil pressure and amp gauge. I'm sure the sending unit still works for the fuel, but it might read different if you use a analog gauge. Sending units are readily available for EA81's in the yards tho, and are quite simple to swap out. Will, that would be a great asset to the board, and should be put in the online repair manual. Get with Shadow or Shawn to see about doing it.

I've done several dash replacements, but never on a 80 model. I think the inside dimensions are the same on the 2, but not positive. As for the wiring, I have no clue there either . As a matter of fact, it sounds like I cant help much here at all Pull off the original cluster and see how the plugs are setup on the back. Then compare with the new one. If it looks like they are the same, then you should be able to do the swap without to many problems. Theres 3 bolts along the front, 1 on each end and 1 in the center. Then under the corner on each side byt the quarter panel. The wiring loom will need to be detached, and the cables for the heater/vents also. The heater vent ducts usually come off by themselfs. It would be a good idea to take the steering wheel off, and drop the steering column also.

If its making noise, you need to get a new, or almost new alternator. If you use a old one, make sure you check the voltage. If its all over the place on the reading, dont use it. Another suggestion is to make sure all grounds are good. These dashes are getting old, and the guts are fragile and cannot handle any voltage spikes. As of yet, there are not any fixed. This has been in the works for over a year now, cause of the need to butcher a wiring harness for testing purposes. Well I found one recently, and now I'm waiting for the Tech to get back in town. You newer guys wanting one are going to have to get at the back of the line, sorry Luvmybrat, if the dash isnt toast yet, I wouldnt even start the car until the problem is fixed.