Turbone

Yes, they are in the tank. But they have different resistance values :-p But like I stated earlier, I might have some repaired and available soon. And I doubt they will be at a ridiculous price either

Oh yea, forgot this one and the post above reminded me. The fuel tank sending unit is different with the digidash, and I'm pretty sure the temp is also. They may work, but they wont be right.

How good are your electrical wiring skills? Can you read the wiring diagrams in the FSM? Do you have alot of patience? Not to many people (2, maybe) have done a digi to analog swap. I'm trying (still) to get some of these digidashes repaired, had a small problem getting some parts, but things should start rolling again soon. As soon as I have 1 or 2 available I will post it here.

Back at ya!

Uh, you should have called me first If you havent bought it from the stealer yet, shoot me an email or if you still have my #, call.

It depends if the car is AWD and has AT. It should be towed with wheels off ground or disconnect the rear driveline. I would luv to help you for the parts, but I need a tow dolly :-\

Plop a small block of dry ice on the IC. It wont last to long, but it would sure keep it cool. Might be a good idea for RallyX.

Normally a small crack between the valves is common. But if the crack continues up into the exhaust port it usually means the crack goes into the water jacket. Having the the heads welded is costly in some areas. The last estimate I had several years ago was $150US. It could be more or less where you are. I think if the block had a crack, you would be losing more than water.

From looking at the pics of your car, it looks to me like you have some real bad glass. I would suggest getting some newer ones from work The ones on my 86 are as bright as new.

Its quite possible the governor is bad. Its on the passenger side of the tranny. This link will take you to the Repair Manual article. Gov repair for AT's

The XT I "had" was bolted(downpipe) to everthing it was supposed to be. When I removed the engine, I had to remove the downpipe. Once the bolts were removed, the thing fell apart on the ground. It wasnt even that loud when running. After re-reading the first post, are we talking about the crossover pipe? The one on my 86 Turbo Wagon was cracked, under the shield so you cant see it. But you could sure hear it. WJM, what kind of boost were you running when you had overboost? I have had a couple of turbo's that had the first cat gutted, and it ran quite well. Of course, I hadnt messed with the boost (yet).

Wheres the seat

Nope, the seats are not a direct swap. The rails have to be modified. Do a search, theres been a few threads on the swap. To do a LSD swap, first check the sticker on the back of the diffs. If they match, then its a straight swap.

Sure would like to have the ground effects But your right, thats alot of work to make it "look" like an RX. Even the seats are from a RX.

I vote for intake gasket.

Well, I'm kind of stuck on the turbos. But I've had plenty of N/A's too. And so far nothing newer than the 89 RX. But if I had a choice................1 of each please

You will have to forget about the 5 lug conversion too. If the XT6 is 2wd, it wont swap to a 4wd. But fixing them both will give you 2 great cars

Swapping the engine/tranny into the wagon sounds like a good idea. And just fix the XT6. That way you have 2 rigs to drive But I am a little confused, you said the wagon is a GL10T. That means its a turbo. If not, you will have a real headache converting it to a turbo.

Yep, what everyone else said. I had a 82 GLF that I put another motor in, but I had no idea what it came out of(long story). I removed the blocks because I installed a Weber and didnt need all the emissions stuff. Get my drift?

The caliper pistons require a certain tool to turn them "clockwise" back in. You can usually get them at a parts store, the one I have is square with pegs, and fits several different cars. You should bring the usual tools for Soobs, a small socket set, vise grips, both types of screwdrivers and probably a hammer.

Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

You probably loosened up some sludge and blew out the carbon Dont know about your other post :-\

We'll be waiting for you. You will see alot of changes when you get back, something else to look forward to. Watch your back, stay safe. Semper Fi

I cant believe the guy said that! Glad the red flags went up, I think I would have choked trying not to laugh. Altho its ok to have a little seepage, it also depends on where the oil is located. When it blows white smoke, it means the oil seal on the turbine side is leaking. Blue smoke means its leaking from the compressor side oil seals. When it is a leak on the compressor side, it blows oil into the plenum/throttle body. If there was oil in the air box, this baby had something real wrong But I guess we will never know, seeing how it was in such a delicate state.

Ed, you might be right. I bought some alloys a few months ago, but they were 13"s.