Skip

Mr. Isley sir, that problem sounds more like a coolant sensor or IAC valve problem. By chance do the radiator cooling fans run when the key is turned "on" and the AC and defrost are "off"? This is an indication the Fuel injection coolant thermosensor is faulty.

Hi Ed, try here for all your remote entry needs http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html Hope this helps. I do think you will need to find the service button up under the dash.

Please do not leave the factory harness to the pump plugged in when you do this. I'm sure you meant to do it this way. Just makeing sure you do not back feed the ECU anything that may cause it's panties to get in a bunch.

scrap is up around here let the DBug boy tell ya with the cat it might bring 2 c-notes I'm a consummate putz, I like these types of challenges.

Thats cool, sometimes battery charges with a brain need a proper battery connected to put out the proper voltage. I have several like this. I have also used these pumps as transfer pumps so they do move a lot of fuel when wired directly. as for " Do I need to ground the negative pole to the body of the car?" I'm sorry the question is a bit nebulous. this statement " Hooked up.. Even straight wired from the battery." If the latter statement means only the positive terminal of the pump was "straight wired"... Then yes the negative terminal of the pump, if connected to the chassis, will make the pump run. Sure hope this helps, I'm trying.

"I took it off the car and hooked to a 55v battery charger..." Holeboy, if this isn't a type-0 you definitely need a fuel pump now!!!

more likely, given the description, to be a DOJ (Double Offset Joint) Some incorrectly call this the "Inboard CV" Check for rips or tears on the inboard joints. Hope this helps.

"Thoghts? Well, he could be guessing. My guess is stale gas. It may have plugged the fuel filter. Or the pick up sock on the pump. The pump is in the tank and very hard to hear running if all the covers and carpet are in place. Remember, it only runs for a couple seconds when the key is turned on. Good luck hope this helps.

here is a great post on it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82144&highlight=purge Little long but has all you need to know. Newer engine but yours is the same. I'm still looking for a picture of the purge valve postion. It's under the under the 1/3 intake runner. Hope this helps a little

Cougar, please let me apologize We are having our version of winter and I didn't want/need to brave the snow and cold. Suffice it to say "I whimped out." So I went out to the shed and dug out a CAS dist from an EA82 Armed with it, a cordless drill, my trusty Fluke 77 and some power supplies. I set up the test shown below. For the pure 5 volt DC supply I rewired some RC NiCads, for the 12V DC I used a jump box. Voltages on these were monitored by the small multimeter shown in the background. I choose to disassemble the dist for clarity. The slots Dave mentioned can be seen as can the evil rotor screw. Cover was replaced for the test. This distributor model number 22100 AA400 D4P86-03 7103 came from a running engine The wire colors are: red, black - assumed battery voltage (Note: black showed continuity to dist body) green, white - assumed test for AC wires Test results below show various application of the voltages involved Drill speed was set at approx 300 RPM 5 Vdc + on green 5 Vdc - on white 12 Vdc + on red 12 Vdc - on black Fluke - set on auto range AC Volts --> 0 Vac _________________________________ 5 Vdc + on white 5 Vdc - on green 12 Vdc + on red 12 Vdc - on black Fluke - set on auto range AC Volts --> 0 Vac ____________________________________ 0 Vdc + on white 0 Vdc - on green 12 Vdc + on red 12 Vdc - on black Fluke - set on auto range AC Volts --> 0.084 Vac This voltage varied as a direct function of RPM ______________________________________ 0 Vdc + on white 0 Vdc - on green 0 Vdc + on red 0 Vdc - on black Fluke - set on auto range AC Volts --> 0 Vac It shows the test worked only when no reference voltage was applied -- > very odd or my entire test procedure is up for question. Which I will say looks like a bit of a Rube Golberg. (please excuse the unprofessional appearance) I am sorry for the delay and the whimping out Let hope Daeron or Gloyal have better results.

IF you do NOT follow this advise BACKFIRING may result!!!

Yes, you sound correct if the switch has battery power fed to it. Many thanks to Daeron from the link I guess you choose to not look at

it's a dealer I believe shame on them

Well said Gary, I wish everyone would read and heed this. Not only would it make helping them easier but also it would help any one experiencing similar problem possibly in the future.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/car/520650661.html

I'm with ya Yeti!! I spit coffee all over my laptop!! Great picts folks, keep up the good work.. and by all means keep us entertained er er updated.

go ahead Porc-ster!! as I said you da'man Jimmy B lost his parrot?

"If the contacts get worn to a point that the spark is large enough then you have potential for the switch housing etc. to melt and catch alight." If you say so sir, I believe it, as I have now "read it on the internet" Suffice it to say use your head. use a relay and fuse the systems properly.

J C "Twitney" 30 bucks with instructions Remote Entry

coBob the relay will not prevent the burn down the fuse is what protects this from occuring I also recco a relay and fuses for all switched aux circuits drawing over several amps. see Daeron's excellent write up (link below) for a better understanding of relays and why/how to use them.. I also recco you bookmark this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73825&highlight=relay

Sir Welly, The beginning of the confusion may be you state your state as "Georgia" in your profile. We yanks have a state named "Georgia" We now know you are from across the pond. Sorry for the confusion. Next our kind and noble Mr. OB99W clears up another matter of worry e.g. MAF vs AF sensor (a.k.a. 02 sensor) doing so very concisely I might add. I now would like to take the chance to muddy the waters further I believe Subaru went to MAP sensors in 2000 so your car may not have a MAF sensor. The O2 (AF) sensor on my 03 is a very easy reach. It is an H6 but yours may be in the same location? (more muddy water -just what this bloke needs) If you would like, I can take a photo of it's location. Doubt this helps but tis good allinall

another Imp driver that can't make his payments?? Flame Red

See post #4"something like that" could be a broken belt I see a lot of ideas, hope you choose the correct fix. I think you could if you have the timeJack the front wheels off the ground, spin each wheel while looking at it from the front A bent rim/broken belt will be obvious. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the come back folks. I also thank you for the comments. Lots of good points brought to light!! Coming from the folks that know what they are talking about... Well... It makes me feel like it was worth the time, sure hope some others see this. And as always "Thanks for your support" Bartels and James circa 1986???

Thanks for the come back guys. I thank you for the comments. Coming from the guys that know what they are talking about... Well... It makes me feel like it was worth the time, sure hope some others see this.