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First : Mattocs may have a missing/bent shield for one of the ABS tone rings. I only say this as the tone ring and ABS sensor are located in a position where heat from the rotor and the shield are meant to prevent this. Plus the Hall effect signal would need be interrupted - meaning something ferromagnetic would need to "short" the signal. Maybe salt laden ice? Remember Subaru knows their cars are used in conditions such as these and would take steps to prevent this. Second: You sir have a classic case of relay failure that is about to rear it's ugly head. During the recent cold snap we have seen this on this message board several times. This leads me to believe it is a cold weather related event. Couple this with the Subaru revision to this relay. e.g. -from the End Wrench insider info art. "replace it with the modified relay, part number 26735AA012 (there will be a white line under the word “Japan” on the case)." Sea#3 gives you the location (under a black cover on the unit) and the warning that this will get worse not better should be headed. Dead batteries are no phun. Hope this helps and good luck to you sir.

Thanks for the tips good luck with the swap. I'm waiting for warmer temps - ever notice how wrenches can stick to your hands in single digit temps?

Thank you very much for the link porcupine. Here is the actual link you refer to Wide Band sensors I need to read some more of the reference links but the Subaru in question is not listed. Thanks again, I have an extra and would like to build a wide band A/F meter. The sensor was always the big buck stumbling block.

Yes Nipper you may have a point. but I currently own and have driven many GL/Loyale series cars. All, with a good radiator and proper 190 deg t-stat, will have the temp gauge at 1/4 to 1/3 of it's full scale travel and they all yielded good heat. However: You are correct when it comes to the four Legacys I have, they all sit at 1/2 of full scale. The temp gauges used to be notorious for this. He also has his rad blocked if you missed it.

Hi Mike, Snow worries, mate. How do you spell L-A-Z-Y It always starts and it seems like there are other projects on my plate I'd rather fool with. I do carry "RemStar" in the glove box for Justin. "RemStar" you say?? For Justin you ask? Yes, Just in case it doesn't start

Sorry NV I am not here to argue the AC should only run in the "AC" "ACmax" and "defrost" positions. You are correct in the defrost position it drys the air for dehumidification. But only when the temp is above ~45 deg F. (Note: the temp is only an observation on my part and not a figure I have seen in a FSM)

Good luck Jim. Might want to check the spark before and after. On the turbo motor question Yes it will work if you use the SPFI manifolds but the lower compression will make it even more of a dog.

Sorry Nip I guess my guess at your reference was incorrect but thats what we get for making references and guesses. By the way it was a good point - you could have also ask if the heat from the heater had changed? Also I guess I am the only Suby owner that had a coolant thermosensor that did not thow a code since the resistance was not out of range. But it did tell the ECU the engine was cold and thus kept the mixture rich => the fuel mileage fell dramaticly. I do admit this was on an OBD I car. The OBD II may be more sensitive. So I guess thats a guess and not a reference??

John, Here is the link to the End wrench art. The tool is pictured on page 14 of the art. (page 4 on the .pdf file) End Wrench 2.5L timing belt change

NV has a very valid point but before changing the core (a major undertaking) Please make sure the blend door is working as it should. Follow the cable from the hot /cold control and make sure the door is moving to the proper position. Another thought is, maybe the AC (if equiped) is stuck on. Look at the compressor and see if it's spinning. There is a micro switch under the console that can be unplugged to disable the system. I have mine wired to a switch on the dash under the blower speed knob so I can turn it on in any heater position. (in the summer - - having cool feet is neet!) Good luck and hope you don't have to tear the dash apart.

Jim, I did not see where you checked for a good strong spark. If it is weak or very small, the problem could be the ignition amplifier. This amplifier is a power transistor that is mounted on the coil bracket directly under the coil. Note: IT IS NOT an "ignitor" as some call it. (An "ignitor" is located is some distributors (not yours as it is a crank angle sensor type). The big difference is the ignitor sends signals to the ECU or ignition system, where as the amplifier amplifies the signal from the ECU -rant off) The bracket must have a good ground as it functions as one leg of the transistor. A boneyard unit should be less than 25 George Washington if it show weak or no spark.

to quote the Nipper "does your car war up properly" I believe he is refering to: it may be your FI coolant thermosensor. to quote the porcupine " It'll be a 5/6 wire wideband." May I please have a link verifying this bit of info?

Ah this is not so true, one must be careful with internet information. "Just put it at TDC before you pull it apart and you have nothing to worry about. All of the pistons are retracted so if you spin the cams absolutely nothing will happen." He is not correct about TDC - it is not the position used for belt changing and will leave the #1 and #2 in a position where the valves can hit the pistons. The position for belt changing does leave the piston in a position half way through their respective travel ... but.... The valves will hit each other if the cams on the head are turned. The tensioner needs to be compressed in a special way. Holding the cams on each head in proper position needs a special tool or lots of care. The crank shaft bolt torque is wrong in many articles FHI changed it to 125 ft-lbs. There are several very good "End Wrench" articles for you to read first. Links have been posted and no doubt found in one of the "Similar Threads" shown on the lower portion of this page.

Dug this one out of my personal archives. My '85 Attack-Brat (note: photo is several years old) Want Some?

Sorry being the broke guy in the club house, I don't buy into throwing parts at a fix (bat, cables, starter contacts ect.). I do know how to throw words around though. I need some concrete evidence. First thing I would do is connect a test light to the small wire connected to the back of the starter. Better than a test light would be a working car horn. (draws more current, like the starter solenoid would, can be picked up at Wally World for about 5 or 6 George Washington's.) This small wire (has a spade connector on it), is what controls the starter solenoid when the key is in the "start" position . Do this at night and test it in the morning. If the horn blows loud and clear - the starter and/or it's starter solenoid contacts are no doubt to blame. If the sound is weak, then battery, cables connector to battery, cable to connector (lots of people forget this junction and just clean the connector to battery). One of these is no doubt at fault. If this is the case - reconnect the starter solenoid wire. Hold the key in the start position for 15 seconds, get out and feel all junctions - the warm one is the bad one. Resistance makes heat and there should be minimal resistance this minimal heat. If the horn makes no noise - then we start talking clutch switch (easily by passed with a paper clip), ignition switch ect.) Please, I am not poo poo'in the sage advise you have already received, as one of the fixes could be the fix. (or the small wire talked about could just have a bad connection? = free fix) But a little detective work sometimes pays dividends. Then look behind the raditor core support in front of the battery. There are horn wires and a mount from the factory (guess some places get twin horns?) - mount the new horn you bought there and go "toot toot". Sure hope this helps. As a side note to this diatribe, my 94 Leg wagon does a simaliar thing - I have to hold the ignition switch in the start position for sometimes as long as 5 seconds before it begins to crank. No noise, no nuttin' for 5 second then -er -er -er -- VRoom. Been doin this for a year.

Maybe it bought you some time to find a deal on a tranny. Sometimes it takes a while to work it's magic? Wish there was a "miricle in a can" for a stripped VSS drive gear. The way I see my dilema the parts are gonna be around a buck and a half, the instal of said parts another buck..... and I still end up with a tranny with about 200 kmi on it. Maybe I should ne shoppin' for one also?

Factory Service Manual This spring loaded check ball valve controls the max oil pressure. By the way these engines when worn in are known for having a flutuating oil pressure. ~0 -->5 bar is not uncommon

Thanks for using the search feature The easiest way I have found to get at the horns is to remove the headlight units - four(4) 10 mm nuts behind the rad support. They can be adjusted you will see after removal a screw with a lock nut on the read. Loosen the lock nut connect 12 volts and adjust for nice tone. Ear protection helps. There is a techincal way using an ampmeter but I bet you can do it by ear. Or go to auto parts or boneyard and get a pair, splice wires on and mount them where you want. There is no horn relay by the way. They get 12V from the bat and get grounded by the horn pad on the st. wheel. Hope this helps .

because there is no center differential. e.g. Front set of wheels are locked in the same rotational speed (angular velocity) as the rear. Since when you go around a turn there is a difference in the track the front and rear take, some slippage has to occur to prevent the binding of the center drive unit. If it will not come out of 4wd, back the car up about twenty feet or spin the wheels (after shifting to 2wd) on a very snowy section

In direct reference to Cougar's excellent observation. I am putting a check mark next to the cable to clamp connection. (not the clamp to terminal connection already addressed)

Idea only. bypass valve in the oil pump is stuck. see blow up of oil pump in the FSM

The units you have worked on have full frames. Bit of a different animal when the body is real tight to the tranny. With your expierence this should be a walk in the park. The equipment you list does not list a tranny jack, but I will bet you have access to one. I have to yank the tranny out of my 87 OB. But I am a "one man band" with simaliar equipment. I will pull the engine first. Again a one man band has different problems with large masses. Plus I just replaced this engine. The torque conv bolts and the driverside lower engine to tranny nut/stud is a bugger. Careful with the nuts on the studs holding the exhaust to the heads. Heat them cherry red first so the studs don't come out of the head if possible. Hope this helps, I know you can do it in less than 5 hours. PM or email me if you want some other "watch outs/tips" (like get an engine equalizer for your cherry picker) Bet your shop looks something like mine?

You could try some Lucas tranny fix (tranny honey) What do you have to loose? Sure quieted my PS pump.

this country bumkin is corn-fused as you say "If there's something ready made, I'd be all over it..." Then come back with "I'm a little too stuck on making things myself" ??????????? I like your ideas about DIY. Maybe you could start a post "Lets see your home made roof baskets"? Bunch of them out there. ESP in the "off road" section Here is a "look see" for some ideas on the rear tire carrier. Hope it helps. JC Whitney can be your friend

all four tires must be the same size the same inflation psi and preferably the same manufact. Have you checked this?