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Ah MS.... "Dude" first, I thank you kindly for the reply please tell me what a " a blown HD" is? 500 is too much you say? I appreciate the comment but add maybe the vehicle costs in your part of the state are different. a 97 Outback over here is in the 3 to 4 grand range when running well.

I may have the chance to buy from a near by bone yard a 97 Outback wagon with a 150 Kmi and very nice body, missing it's driver's side front strut and steering knuckle. ($500 cash w/normal title) but it also has a supposedly blown phase 1 2.5L DOHC (headgasket demon caused overheating and she drove on - POOF!!) plus the tranny (4EAT) has issues (bad VSS 1 in the tranny and slips real bad, a flush and a new sensor may fix it?) thus it's trip to the boneyard Now I also just happen to have a 94 Legacy turbo wagon with no title (complete driver, runs great - rebuilt 4EAT) Would I be a fool to even consider swapping the drive train, lock stock and ECU + wiring harness into the Outback? or Swapping the drivetrain from a 94 GT wagon I also have. She has a quater million miles and body rot, the 2.2L runs good but is starting to wolf a bit of oil and it's 4EAT is showing signs of it's age. or ??? as they say in NYC "Fergit aboutit" All comments positive or slam are appreciated P.S. I do happen to possess a little (as in very) bit of Subaru Legacy knowedge and a shed to work this miracle in.

Here is an idea on what is occurring. Subaru knew some water could migrate in past the glass thus the side channels and the drains. The inside of each channel is formed by the gasketing under the track that the sunroof moves on. This elastomeric gasket hardens over the years, cracks and falls out. Now there is no inner side to the channel and the water weeps in. The looseness you feel is the gap caused by the missing gasket material under the rail. This has been covered and a fix shown on Legacy Central. It involves removing the headliner, glass and track and re gaskeing. Hope this helps

Here are a few shots from when I compared a Legacy t-charger to the EA82 unit (on left in foreground and backround) Hope this helps some.

my wagon Willy Has the mod you are looking for. If you email me I will explain procedure for wiring the corner lights as turnsinals You do not loose the parking light in the corner light BTW

No mention of the rad's age. Your first post describes the classic symptoms of a rad gone south while the car stayed north This has been shown to be an external problem, not an internal, thus no flushing or such will help. The problem manifests itself in the fins between the cooling tubes delaminating from the tubes. The coolant flows by and very little heat is removed. Hard to see this as it is behind the rad fan shroud Solution - new rad Oil cooler and IC are good ideas that could be installed at the same time.

My temps are about the same as yours (see mention of them earlier in this thread) Joost, thanks - I think you may be looking at the altimeter

Willy the wunder wagon

My first bet is the that the HVAC control amplifier is toast. This is the brains behind the temp control function. but and I don't mean to turn away business but you could have some luck with this problem at Legacy Central "Electrical" or "Interior" forum Leg Central

clear the mem. in the ECU drive until it comes back on then try the proper set of connectors black in color please see if this post helps The ECU and You

And rumble they do!! sorry for the delay Fast but here's a rear view of the pipes See my post "These things can't haul...." for the rear cross over view

The comfy Cruzin'

Thanks Carl oldies but goodies Has now morf'd to four Leg wagons three turbos and one GT but circle the wagons boys

Megell, I went to 16" on my 91 SS (2.5 RS wheels) I kept the same aspect ratio so the speedo would be accurate The weight is about 1.5 ~2 lb less per- compared to the factory turbo wheel. The ride was not compromised but the handling improved notably, fuel economy stayed about the same. The width of the tire and it's pressure effect the rolling resistance more than the wheel weight. just another point to consider

Beg, borrow or find someone who isn't making his banana dance to do a compression check. It is a possibility that the re-con-artist did not get the timing belts on correctly. One tooth off on either belt will cause "no guts" The ignition timing being so far off is an indicator this may be the case.

The carb model does not need the power amplifier. The power amp (transistor) is for the crank angle sensor type distributor used on the SPFI and MPFI/turbo models. Which control module you need depends on where/what the engine was built for (CA or 4wd). The FSM shows different modules for different carbed engines of this period.

Thanks Fast The rumble it produces is somewhat "V8" ish I'll get ya a shot of the rear. Here is the J pipe connection. Note the X connection also matches where the tranny cross over is - keeping the system snugged up against the body I will add the old hot rodders tip is to place the X at a point where if the head pipes were painted with normal paint -- the paint would not burn off.

The "balance tube" or "X" factor helps somewhat with savenging and thus some help in the anti reversion department. Another way to think about it is the exhaust pulses now have two paths they can follow and thus decrease the back pressure somewhat while promoting pulling the next pulse along. I believe it also improves the exhaust note. Good read here if you like Understanding Exhaust

Thanks fr the photos The raised roof gave the GT part away and the hood scoop the turbo You in NZ? I mistakenly thought you we in the US of A

Here is my version, the twin "seat of pants" work as a "X" system for balancing the exhaust extraction

Hi Faith, All foolishness aside as I feel you came here for answers not jokes. There are pro's and con's to using a K&N. Here is one opinion from a BMW site Rob Levinson from UUC Motorwerks says that "it is really doing every E34 owner a disservice for three reasons: • First, conclusive tests from independent labs show that K&N filters, no matter how well-oiled and cleaned, let through huge amounts of large particulate that damages engines. Oil analysis shows 5x as much silicate contamination. Additionally, the oil from these filters tends to muck up the MAF and cause an engine-damaging lean-run condition. Another option you might consider is removing the intake silencer This unit is mounted in the pass. side inner fender, this is commonly done to increase intake air by removing restriction (same thing the K&N touts to do) I have a question for you. you state "91 Legacy GT 4WD Tubro Wagon" I was not aware that Subaru ever made a GT turbo wagon I have two Legacy turbo wagons and a Legacy GT wagon. These are all fairly rare cars your's must be very rare? Could you grace us with a picture?

Dave, this is kind of a follow up thread to the post "A Simple Problem" I was merging ideas on the hesitation he has and the engine temp but wanted to throw in the vac advance. as another possibility

"it only took less than a 1/4mile to bring it all the way down hmmmm" this my friend is an indicator of a missing thermostat or one that is stuck open I would look into it as. It could lead to hesitation as the engine is running too cold but I'd test the vacuum advance on the distributor

Swiftt, I believe there is a minor type-0 in your post please forgive and correct me if I am wrong but you state "The early style has an external water crossover that bolts onto the crank case. The later style has this same coolant crossover cast right into the crank case." Don't you mean "intake manifold"?

Sure sounds like a classic case of governor shuttle hang up. Read and follow the repair article in the USMB repair section on this sunject. Make sure all burrs are smoothed - this takes patience, too many times I have seen guys trying to make it a quick fix and the repair will only last a month or so. Hope this helps