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An engine running lean will also backfire through the carb. The accel pump issue will cause it to go lean when you step on it. The best method for the timing is the ping test, advance it till it pings under load then back it off a few deg's. You have looked at and set the point gap -aye?

Jeep, Legacy777 has a most excellent write up on doing this on his website (which is also excellent). Look under "Modifications" http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html

Have we been made the April Fool? MAV you'll have to prove it's you by showing the picture of the special hood you made. Then I will believe this not an AFJ* *April Fool Joke

SPFI?? IAC valve (Idle Air Control) wants cleaning, gummed up slider many posts on this subject should be part of routine maint. Hope this helps

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I am sorry sir, please take no offense but you do not seem to listen to what I say, so a reiteration will no doubt do little good. I wish you much luck, some one will surely lead you on the path to electrical nirvana

I did a quik search for you and found this hope it helps EA82 replacement fuel pump

the button will work for a while the high current needed will eat the switch contacts if it is not a heavy duty switch thus using the relay => no need for a button the ig switch will still control the relay Napa has some very nice push buttons less than 10 GW's just bought one today for a different project Pick up you battery juice from the main connector under the dash that feeds the ig switch (large white wire) to the switch and then to the small space connector on the back of the starter A smart man would wire an inline fuse. hope this helps good luck

"Will a 10-14psi (very common) pump work?" nope, not enough pressure even choked down " Any suggestions for non-subaru pump, " Napa sells a Ford FI inline pump for about 70 or 80 clams "Cheap?" depends on how you look at it? Used one from one of the junk yard dogs is a better solution I feel.

assuming this is your 93 2.2 EJ22 ? first place to start is a cleaning of your IAC valve (Idle Air Control ) Notorious for getting gummed up and sticking plenty of info on cleaning them, many posts on the problem, should be part of routine maintenance I feel.

Most excellent, well done Sir Loin. My 94 GT wagon (AWD 4EAT) just hit 220 kmi. I do live in the salt belt but she is not bad (even though for a good part of her life she was used as a rural postal delivery wagon). Keep up the good work!

You are most welcome sir, glad it helped, and thank you for taking time to type a follow up and to thank all of us who try and help. Most kewl of you to do this.

you ask " so then what should I do" I have alreasy suggested " have you tested it aginst the FSM for your year?:" you replied "it doesn't really seem like a TPS problem" So I say You must know more than I do and all I can say is -- Good luck., I really hope it is a simple problem and I will continue to monitor your progress. You're welcome from me, for the help thus far. It's very nice of you to say "thanks" more people should follow your lead.

okay mate, suit youself but the NA TPS may not have the same characteristics as the turbo model. The ones I have worked with have a different connector

what TPS are you using and have you tested it aginst the FSM for your year? Many spider conversion problems can be traced to the TPS I am not sure but the potentiometer values may be different. Thus it is not telling the ECU the proper throttle position.

Sorry, Dneu, but this statement is not what I found when my engine was acting very similiar to yours "i checked everything and if the intake were separating i should be able to hear it" As descibed this only happened when boosting . I could not simulate (i.e hear) the situation just reving it while standing still. Good luck, sounds like you covered all the bases. Throwing parts at it?? What else are you going to do? Do you have a spare MAF, TPS, fuel filter?

SynBlinFlu Loyale 2.7 is correct about the common wire for the front and rear speakers (it is not grounded as some will tell you) But there is a simple way to by pass this with out running new wires. Please read this entire post, I made an error and was corrected, it can be done behind the dash at the connector. radio wiring without common connections

two things to try 1) leave the gas cap off, possible vacuum forming in the gas tank. Plus it would be good to verify spark after it dies, just to take it out of the equation. 2) when telling a story please use the "Enter" key more often. This is an excellent case in point The bottom half is very easy to read, the "story" well.... Guess some folks never proof read their post using the "Preview Post" option?

Was there any connection (like for the TPS) that wasn't correct when you went to the XT manifold? Did the MAF get any ruff treatment lately? Those two items (MAF and TPS) are crucial items in hard pull fuel delivery. You mention just installing an IC. I have had this type of problem when the connection to the thrrottle body leaked. In my circumstance, the rubber hose connection to the TB was fine when the engine had negitive intake manifold pressure. But as soon as the manifold pressure went positive the connection separated and WHOOP no mo go. Back off and the vacuum sucked the connection closed. That one was a tuff nut to crack. The fuel filter getting semi clogged is a long shot unless the gas tank was involved some how. Good luck hope it's something simple, you did use new gaskets and did not separate the spider before installing I will assume.

Two items 1) a change to Redline gear oil has saved many of these trannys 2) could this roaring noise be an exhaust problem ?

Adam the issue is controlling the current the motor draws and thus the speed of the vehicle. DC is simple but .. if you use resistance the efficiency is very poor. The heat disapated from the resistors is wasted energy. Look at the current line of electric golf carts vs. the old school models. I hope you spend some time researching the control system as it can make or break a project such as yours. By all means good luck and please keep us updated. BTW solar can still be used to charge the batteries in a AC system.. The batteries are still. DC, the controller and motor are the AC components. Surplus supply houses are a good source for both systems.

I would check the possibility of using the 94 intake manifold ect on the new engine. Just about all the sensors are located on it. Stop by http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ and ask the same question, those boys know their Legacys

All good info, hope Woody posts a follow up. My sugg may be the obvious with CCR that close, pop over and talk with Emily, Shawn, and Rick What better way to get info than the horse's mouth so to speak. They know these cars better than anyone on the board IMHO They also have a history of being very helpful.

Dylan, what you are saying is no doubt true but these WG have very little static pressure on the spring. I went to my turbo department and had a look. I believe you will intro turbo lag instead of lowering the pressure as you say. I like the counter spring idea, mount it on a threaded rod and "dial down" the pressure.

"Holy antique posts, Batman" "It's okay Robin, people have this problem every day and good info is given"