1 Lucky Texan

well, you could lap a shim on some wet-dry over a piece of glass and do pretty well. Or figure out what shims you need and order them. You may only need a couple after you swap them around ??? If they are too tight, I think the danger is, the valve may not close completely at operating temp and would burn an edge.

well, maybe those wheels aren't that bad - just seems a little pricey. I sold my stockers off my WRX for $500 with tires. Stock rims are made by Enkei I think. but, that was 10 years ago....

ugh - I KNOW I read a thread about this issue. pretty sure id doesn't 'go' anywhere. I THINK I recall the thought was, any dirt/debris would collect in that depression instead of possibly running in to the oil passage.

some folks have found stretched exhaust valves on H6es at about 200,000 miles so, I'd say there's a good chance yours do not need any attention now unless you have some other problem.

yeah, someone is charging you a LOT for what many of us do ourselves, or an independent mechanic might do for $10-$15 .

batteries don't like to be completely discharged - even 1 or 2 times is bad - multiple times will destroy one. maybe borrow a good battery from a working car, test voltages as mentioned too. of course there are other possibilities, some older soobs had crank sensors that would fail when they warmed up, etc.

classifieds on the Forums - post a WTB (want to buy) someone may have some wheels laying around. (here, subaruoutback.org, NASIOC, etc.) you will need to confirm a few things for maximum possibility of problem-free driving - what size tire can you run with no rubbing or brake caliper interference, what wheel size that mounts to, can you find a good looking wheel that size that has the correct offset, is hub centric and is the right bolt pattern. I wish I knew specifics about a 97, but likely someone here will. there 'may' be a thread over at NASIOC called "what wheels fit my car" or similar. Also, tirerack.com and I think also Discount Tire , have online shopping systems that allow folks to load a picture of their car model, then 'try on' pictures of different rims. That might be fun.

man, I just think you could do better looking for take-offs in the classifieds here, or over at NASIOC.

'ticking' might be OK, 'knocking' doesn't sound good. on many of our motors, there's a easily missed or displaced hose under the intake from the IACV that will prevent idling - look to make sure it's connected.

no experience here, but from reading, the valves stretch over time - I guess they also sit slightly deeper in the seats - anyway, exhaust valves evidently get longer/less clearance. You can , carefully, grind the back of a shim down, just put the ground side away from the wear of a cam.

story seems weird. price seems high. anyway, get another opinion - maybe ask in a new thread for a shop recommendation near you.

maybe look through here;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1919333 - perhaps cross-check with Yelp or Google reviews? also, you could subscribe and ask in the Forum;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=29

^^^ ah - NEW struts, not sure, if the part numbers are different, just go with what matt and bleak said I guess. forester forum might know. also, at NASIOC there is an entire thread called something like "will this suspension part work on my car"

just thinking, if you're close to doing the TB system service, just combine with the coolant change and thermostat. is it creeping up only at stop lights? check that both rad fans are working.

2002 ?- those struts are worn out anyway - get 2 KYB, then save up and replace the fronts.\ car will handle/ride like new!

yeah, kinda behaves like a non-oem t'stat. Is the car new to you? anyway, get a t'stsat from a dealer or the Stant Xacststat 48457 or w'ever it is. It matters. good time to install fresh fluid if needed, inspect the condition of the hoses and maybe a bottle of Subaru Coolant Conditioner. Also, that is an interference engine, do you know when the timing belt system was last serviced?

doh ! fairtax to the rescue!

honestly I can't help a lot here - if there were other electrical problems, I'd suspect a common ground was involved. But some high-ish current devices have their own dedicated ground. A Factory Service manual with wiring diagrams may be required - sometimes you can find pdfs or scans online. someone may chime in here with the info or experience with the fan system.

trans final drive ratio must match rear diff - maybe you have a mismatch? what is donor and recipient cars?

look for oil in the spark plug tubes - might need valve cover gaskets. If the problem seems related to moisture/dew/rain, maybe plug wires.... both of those can throw misfire codes. also, our cars don't like most plugs other than NGK - maybe prev owner threw some cheap plugs in it. do you KNOW when it last got a timing service? Interference engine so, idlers and tensioner need to be in good condition. toothed idler often seizes or looses it's bearings and throws the belt off. $$$$!!! AT fluid must be checked while idling - only fluid that's like that. Might try a fluid change - best if really nasty would be 3 drain/fills with a drive around the block between each one - that gets you 80-85% new fluid.

where was it?

maybe a ground wire is broken somewhere? something physically blocking the fan/air flow? is there a noise? any chance of rodents building a nest in the car?

can you post a pic of where the hole is? you probably need the eyes of a mechanic on this issue. Guys typing on the internet are only making guesses without more details.

hmmm, - .. just wondering if this could be a hole melted thru the plastic timing cover?

the center diff cannot transfer enough power to the rear end. The car may move, but the center diff will be under a lot of stress. also. i THINK the wheel bearing needs the preload (or w'ever) from the axle nut ? hopefully, someone else will have a more thorough explanation.