1 Lucky Texan

does it seem to fail after the engine has warmed up? Have you tried some ether-start when it fails? If it tries to run immediately, you know you have spark. anyway CPS is cheap-ish and easy to get to, I think I'd try it.

just looking around Google, good reviews for both MYTEE and Toledo Auto Repair you could call them and ask how much a pre-purchase inspection for that car would cost, and what major items would be included. (you expect they will look at fluids and tires, etc.) then decide if it's worth the hassle. better if someone from around there can recommend a shop.

ok - if you can, edit this thread to say; HELP - need mechanic near Toledo Ohio

auto corrected from ??? Tomato Ohio ???? where????

roll connector?

do you hear any relays clicking? I'm wondering if someone connected the green 'test' connectors under the dash?

take the other side off and install some Hella 500s. /thread

well, I got under my MIL's Forry. There was ZERO evidence of insects on anything. i WISH there WERE spiders involved. I would have had a shot at fixing the car. I found one small tube from a valve of some type. It was just dangling in fee air. I built a cylinder of aluminum screening and attached is anyway, Then, I found a large white plastic 'vent'. It's shape actually looks like it would make an ideal home for a bug. It was clean though. I managed to squeeze my hands up there, remove it, and build a screen 'dome' over it. It will never have bugs I can assure you. So, the car still only accepts fuel at a very low velocity. Lowere than the lowest position on the 'hands free' clip. My MIL has arthritis and cannot trickle fuel in. She shouldn't have to. So, hoping my BIL can get SOA to get with the dealer and fix this properly. Might involve dropping the tank. This problem has always been present - even going back to when the warranty was in effect. But I'm sure the dealership wants to make certain they get paid. *sigh*

well, I got under my MIL's Forry. There was ZERO evidence of insects on anything. i WISH there WERE spiders involved. I would have had a shot at fixing the car. I found one small tube from a valve of some type. It was just dangling in fee air. I built a cylinder of aluminum screening and attached is anyway, Then, I found a large white plastic 'vent'. It's shape actually looks like it would make an ideal home for a bug. It was clean though. I managed to squeeze my hands up there, remove it, and build a screen 'dome' over it. It will never have bugs I can assure you. So, the car still only accepts fuel at a very low velocity. Lower than the lowest position on the 'hands free' clip. My MIL has arthritis and cannot trickle fuel in. She shouldn't have to. So, hoping my BIL can get SOA to get with the dealer and fix this properly. Might involve dropping the tank. This problem has always been present - even going back to when the warranty was in effect. But I'm sure the dealership wants to make certain they get paid. *sigh*

If it's at a dealership in another State, even negotiating for some kind of limited warranty may not be of any practical value. The good news is, dealerships often only keep the better trade-ins and send the worst to the auction house. bad news is, they usually want a lot more money than a private seller. hope it works out.

well - if you tell the owner you want a pre-purchase inspection, if the mech. finds more work than the owner wants to drop the price buy - you keep shopping and kiss you $100 - $150 w'ever you paid the mechanic goodbye. BUT - you might avoid a $3000 repair bill. ask for a shop recommendation near the city in Ohio in a new thread. maybe someone will know of one, or, take it to a dealer for inspection. you can find a lot of help on-line in the form os step-by-step pics and even videos of how to do timing belts. I'm about to try my first one next month after getting a lot of support from folks on the Forums and buying a kit from ebay. But, at 200K miles, you'd probably want to do cam/crank seals, waterpump, re-seal the oil pump, etc. - stuff I'm skipping this time. bottom line - don't pay top-dollar for a car with; blown turbo, blown engine,blown trans or blown AWD. Other stuff can be fixed and you expect a used car to have some 'issues'. For certain, if the struts are original, they're bad at this mileage. Could need brake attention, might have split axle boots, maybe need some bushings here/there, etc. a written pre-purchase inspection gives you some negotiating ammo, and it might help you avoid a big headache.

be aware - the car is close to needing its timing belt changed. probably be a VERY good idea to have an experienced Subaru mechanic drop the pipe and check the play in the turbo shaft.

tell us what the steering is doing.

sender on the other side stuck down?

the older a used car is, the less important the brand's reliability is, and the more important the individual car's past care and present condition are. Go slow, look at a lot of cars, choose wisely. Then, just deal with whatever comes up.

turbos from 2004 up I think? someone else may know - or check that link to cars101.com , all the Subaru models are there.

You could make an offer based on replacing the transmission - check car-part.com for used trans prices, figure in the labor cost - make an offer and see what happens. Or, shop for a car with better history of service. If they skipped trans service - what else did they neglect?

or a turbo Forrester

Well, not certain about the video, but you can research all the model years there at cars101 . Other markets model years don't always line-up with the US. And some models or engine-chassis combinations are not offered in the US. For instance, we have no model with the flat diesel engine. I think the hatch STIs are from 08 to 12(maybe up to 14?) but, not positive.

It's the new-ish hatch body.(I have an 06 WRX wagon) 07 was the last of the wagons and old style sedans, then came the hatch body. - then the hatch went away in 2013 i think for the STI - research them here; http://www.cars101.com/subaru/wrxsti/wrxsti2012.html Go to a dealership and test drive some cars! 3142plateless by alckytxn, on Flickr

people used to do trunk swaps - guys with STis that didn't want the wing, would swap with WRX guys that wanted it. probably still a thread about doing that at NASIOC

the 4EAT is considered robust in general. If the car was mistreated with odd-sized tires or maybe poor maintenance, the wet clutch-pack that transfers power for hte AWD system could be bad.

It may have the same size listed on it, but that does not mean it is necessarily OK to use. Subaru claims AWD damage can occur if the 'rolling circumference' is more that 1/4" difference. Some people say, lifting the car and using a measuring tape around the tires can can determine if the tires are actually within the 1/4" dimension. Unless your mechanic did that, you do not know that the tires are OK.

wow - you have some dealers and mechanics that need an education. The tires REALLY need to be the same brand/model/size and within 3/32" or so of wear from each other to keep the AWD system happy. Yes, you can put odd sized tires on opposite corners or on one side and maybe get away with mixing , but yoy could have odd handling characteristics. Taking care of your tires is the price you pay for one of the best AWD systems available. Some people have found partially worn tires on ebay to match 3 worn tires.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119952-refurbish-93-legacy-starter-motor-commutator-contacts/?hl=starter