1 Lucky Texan

I was thinking there was a cooling passage change.(is that what those holes are for?) I think I recall learning that from a cardoc post some time ago.

you can get contacts and plungers in rebuild kits.

if this guy was as shady as you say, maybe the cam/crank timing is off a tooth- leading to incorrect conditions and overheating? you can also pull codes whether the CEL light is covered or not - might be some pending codes that would help with diagnosis.

just use a single bottle and install as they suggest. Don't dump it in the overflow, don't think 3 bottles is 3x better than one.

yeah, just a a wild idea. If I understand your post, you did not pressurize the complete system - just the radiator? the conditioner can help with small leaks anywhere i think - perhaps less effective in some spots than others?

it would be an unusual failure for coolant to exit via the tailpipe but, i THINK one odd-looking sparkplug could indicate the cylinder involved.

likely overdue for a timing belt, 'technically' - 105K miles OR 105 months. you could have a mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection (which must include checking for torque bind). ask him to let your know what needs to be done NOW, what you need to save-up for, and anything you could live with (squeaks, rattles, slow drips, etc.)

you did use the large OEM or OEM-style thermostat right? I'd say have the system pressure tested. It's a good thing that the reservoir didn't have all the fluid pushed into as happens mostly with bad headgaskets. I wouldn't discount the possibilty of some bad temp sensor feeding the ECU incorrect temp info. The fans are 2 speed but run operate at the same time I THINK on a 2003. but, kinda surprising you didn't find the source of a leak so......

no waterpump change for me, but I just bought a kit with a mitsuboshi belt and all GMB idlers and tensioner - I HOPE it's OK stuff. going in my WRX next month.

check prices at rockauto and even amazon . KYB are the most popular struts - that's what I put on our 03 Outback.

I initially dismissed the IACV because he said it idled OK - but it certainly could be gummy and intermittent. good post

no MAF, MAP on our cars I think. kinda wondering about a TPS problem but????

have a pre-purchase inspection done (start a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near you) and ask the mechanic to print/write out what needs immediate attention, what you can live with (drips, squeaks w'ever) and what you need to save-up for. he will also test for torque bind and 'may' be able to tell the condition of the timing components (at 207 - in theory, you will need the timing belt VERY soon if not immediately). You can use the list to maybe negotiate a better price. they are fairly well designed and tough cars, easy to work on - but a used car's reliability depends WAY more on previous care and current condition than 'brand reliability'.

yeah, just ignore it and check tire pressure regularly like 'the old days'.

I.....I have no words....

OK guys, I guess I was thinking they 'couldn't' maintain their positions or were on a hair trigger like a rat trap or something. Seems like a little care should be good enough. If one snaps out of position, just turn the 'shortest' distance to get it back? or 'must' they always turn clockwise (looking from the front - not the driver's position)

I get how the old belt, maybe clipped in place in a few spots, would prevent the left-side cams from rotating and colliding valves with each other, but I don't see how I would take the old belt off and put the new one on. Do I need to buy that tool that holds them?

also, after 7 days it could take an extra 3-4 seconds to get the rails pressured up for good injector spray. did the car get its timing belt change at 105K ? might be a weak tensioner letting the belt flop around or ????

I have read of people purposely bending, OR cutting part of and bending their dust shield to scoop more air towards their brakes.? Check into StopTech Street Performance pads too. Not crazy expensive, great cold bite, higher MOT than Hawk. Stoptech also has a cryo-treated slotted rotor I think?

as a rule - you shouldn't drive a car with a flashing CEL. That indicates severe misfiring and can damage the catalytic converter - perhaps heat things to the point of combustion?. If the car drove reasonably well (safe braking and turning, etc.), was not making loud knocking/clanking noises, and the CEL was not flashing - hard to imagine any serious damage. bev - perhaps in a new thread, ask for a recomendation for a new shop to service the car. There should be several places in CO that have good reputations. I dunno where your city is, but RetroRoo would be a great shop for you if you live nearby; 6300 E 88th Ave #4, Henderson, CO 80640 (720) 440-1662

Seems to me there is 'incomplete' combustion and a seafoam or similar treatment thru a vacuum line 'could' help. Might be a waste of time but.....? It would be nice to have some kinda borescope pics of the inside of that cylinder. could a dropped valve guide be an issue? might be able to spot after dropping the exhaust.

out of an abundance of caution, you could do a an oil change, maybe it's slightly diluted with fuel - but really, anything else (stress on the catalytic converter ?) is probably not worth worrying about - just drive the car and continue to monitor it for problems/changes. If you live in an area where your car may be subject to more invasions by rodents, there are a half dozen things you can try to limit that in the future. If they chewed on stuff once, they'll likely be back. put 'clumps' from a cat litter box under where you park, refresh occasionally. Buy fox urine or similar at a sporting goods store? Find a Zoo or hobbyist that keeps snakes, put a shed snake skin under where you park. Even cat hair from a brush, or from a dog/cat groomer's , might help discourage 'critters'.

I think cardoc or some other guru once said he could see xtra carbon inside EZ30 engines that didn't get premium fuel. ???

Oh yeah, I recall you or someone recommending the metal gasket for the water pump. One kit I saw includes a metal gasket. I'll remember that for the future. i think I'm gonna order this kit; http://www.ebay.com/itm/260928551524?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT If I DO see weeping, I'll have the seals ready to go. Dunno if I store them, if they'd still be OK to use 7-8 years from now though!

I was hoping one or 2 people would feel that way about the water pump. And I'm sensitive to the fact that skipping one or 2 items carries some risk - I may just plan on going only 7-8 years instead of 9 on this service (assuming similar use/mileage) I was looking at some pages from an FSM and there's an oil can shown dripping on the crank bolt. Oil OK or anti-seize? (some other parts appear to require toothpaste ? lol! something from a tube so - threadlocker or sealant ???) Also, would you guys change the tensioner? or just its pulley ? The main kit I'm focusing on has GMB brand pulleys - any experience with that brand?