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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. yeah, I know about the pressure control valve and the tank's vent valve too. Just seems 1.5 seconds shouldn't be 'normal'. I could MAYBE see a little of that happening after a day or 2 temp cycling in a warm climate followed by a short trip to the gas station before the ECU cycles any valve, but, the whole system is designed to PREVENT a whoosh of vapors escaping to the atmosphere. Those vapors are 'supposed' to be adsorbed in the carbon canister. We're in the midst of fighting an issue with my MIL's Forester not taking fuel (or only taking it at EXTREMELY slow rates) so, I've tried to educate myself a little about the tank's evap and fueling systems. Lots of ways that stuff can fail. There's failed valves, gummed-up valves, saturated canisters, spider. mud or frozen condensation clogged tubing - it's crazy! But the vent valve 'should' prevent much pressure build-up, unless the canister or its drain 'system' is clogged with spiders or something. My MIL's Forester sits outside and can go several days without driving. And, when driven, is only driven very short distances. No permanent solution to the fueling problem after 2 visits to the dealer - just returned after visit 3. We'll see how it goes. I think PGH should closely examine the evap system back there at the tank. But I admit it's a longshot.
  2. yeah, people 'lap' them on a piece of plate/float glass with silicon carbide. I think there are even pics around somewhere..... yeah, check; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/?hl=%2Bglass+%2Bheads+%2Bsurface
  3. It's my understanding, as fuel is used, external air would be brought through the carbon canister into the tank to prevent a vacuum. It seems slightly lower-than-atmo pressure would be more likely than higher?
  4. do you guys pull the plugs to do all the rotating/alignment of the crank?
  5. wow!, hope she feels better soon and has no lasting problems! hope the other driver is OK. (were they drunk?) any pics of the Forester available?
  6. does it seem to be pressure, or a vacuum when you open the tank? (if a vacuum is developing, that might starve the engine for fuel - maybe???) Also, even though you will get a CEL for a p0440 or similar code, you could try driving with the gas cap loose. Maybe the charcoal canister or it's drain is clogged up. Or the purge control valve inst;nt cycling.
  7. I bought my Strommung muffler for my WRX from boxer4racing but, there are plenty of options out there. Cheapest is a 'turn down' pipe. You can aslo find sound clips for just about every muffler made (Magnaflow, Bosal, etc.). make sure you are not listening to turbo soundclips - the unequal length headers causes a different rumble and stock NA cars will not sound like that.
  8. The previous generation Outbacks had a spoiler - maybe Subaru still has it listed for 05s ? or check aftermarket as mentioned here; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-rear-wing-05-legacy-gt-and-outback-wagon-54298.html For more ideas about bits for Legacys, you might look around at www.boxer4racing.com , they usually have a good selection of legacy stuff.
  9. an Outback or Legacy turbo model's hood might move over easily. Someone here may have details as to if any other front trim parts would need to come with it. otherwise I guess you're looking at some cutting.
  10. Best first mod is sticker tires. If you run stickier tires and drive in a 'spirited' manner, upgrade your brake pads. next is probably a High performance Driving Experience class (HPDE) or some autoX runs. (to get YOUR performance up) performance mods probably limited to reducing mass. Lighter wheels give you a good place to start as it is also a chance to personalize the car with a cosmetic mod. You might also consider a lightweight crank pulley. If 5spd, lightweight flywheel as well. Some people like the sound of intake mods but they may not add any HP. A less restrictive exhaust may add a pony or 2. But, 9-13 lbs less weight (there's a complex formula involving the weight of the car which determines this exactly) equals 1 hp so, remove anything you don't need. If you have buddies in town to help you and/or never leave town, leave the spare tire and tools for it at home. have someone bring the stuff to you, or take you to pick them up - or call for a flatbed tow. If you literally never have anyone in the car with you, take out the other seats. springs and anti-roll bars would help in the corners.
  11. I don't know what sizes they come in but, I was told, there is an upgraded gasket made with sinteredt metal (???) for my car. maybe someone else knows about those - anyone ?
  12. difference looks like this; Stant makes one like the right one now, I think NAPA offers one as well? Or, get it from a dealer - local or on-line.
  13. check for oil in the plug tubes. If the valve/cam cover gaskets leak oil in there, it creates a high voltage short.
  14. well, there is a slim chance of a couple things going wrong(circlip jamming or seal being cut) but, usually, it's just a matter of seating it back in so the 'circlip' on the end snaps into place. someone probably had the cup 180 degrees out from the stub axle. The have odd numbers of splines and a normal axle pin would SEVERELY jam going thru there!
  15. nothing specific from me, I'm just brainstorming. Um, would it throw the code if you clutched in and braked to slow the car? Or if you did some high revving when parked? That is, does it require engine braking to throw the code? To me, that would be more a mechanical/sensing/maybe wiring issue than 'charging circuit' but........? Intermittent signal dropout could be a general electrical fault - or bad connector or grounding I guess.
  16. yeah but, I kinda wonder if all that was translated from another language? still, everyone tries to push their product. I think you can find the same part and price on ebay, but it may only show-up using the Febest numbers; SAB-001R, and L or w'ever. Might save the taxes too?
  17. back to $20, just ordered a pair. gonna dump the poly bushings I installed - too harsh! need the rubber waffles and big washer though.
  18. maybe there's just enough weakness in the tensioner and stretch in the belt to momentarily cause enough 'jerk' to throw the cam sensor out of sync? Or a cam gear is loose/cracked? weird
  19. that center Viscous Locking Limited Slip Differential's viscous unit in the 5spd is sealed and normally would be unaffected by the GL-5 in the rest of the trans/front diff part of the case. There may be more than one way it can fail, but from what I've read, the seal usually leaks and the special fluid inside starts mixing with the trans fluid. on the right (with all the plates inside); number 11 in this trans diagram;
  20. I think people DO get binding all the time eventually. But I have read more than once of them binding, or binding worse, after heating-up. Some speculation is, the seals fail and GL-5 begins infiltrating the silicone/w'ever fluid in the viscous unit. If it really is a gradual process, it make sense it may be worse at some temperature extreme I guess. hmmm, wonder if an oil analysis would find silicone in the GL-5 ?
  21. The only pads I've had trouble with were some cheap Wagner's I bought on clearance. they were terrifyingly poor and almost required 2 feet to stop the car. I pulled them when they were 1/3-1/2 worn out. don't recall which model pads. On very rare occasions, like 4-8 times a year, during an easy stop, the StopTech S.P. pads on my WRX will emit a short squeak. name brand or top-of-line store brand ceramics should do fine for you. I have Centric posiQuiets on our 03 Outback, will get them again. SO MANY threads about brakes here (do a search) and hardly anyone has really bad experiences. Often, even cheaper pads are just short-lived or noisy, or dusty. If you stay with Ceramic, Semi-metallic or , maybe, para-aramid - from a reputable source - I can't imagine any 'howling' or other big issues.
  22. If i recall, your car has a lot of miles on it right? you might consider an entire transmission from a wreck - might only have 1/4 the miles your present trans has on it.
  23. sorry, those terms mean the same thing for this discussion. GG has a experience with this stuff so, he can probably advise you better how to proceed. I just read about stuff.
  24. I think that torque procedure you mentioned is for spindles with cone bearings ???? I recall something similar when I replaced a bearing on the rear of a FWD Honda Civic MANY years ago. torque to X, back off, finger tight, cotter pin. - well, something like that lol!

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