1 Lucky Texan

I have read of people experiencing jerky/TB-like symptoms from bad u-joints and maybe bad carrier bearings. But not from wheel bearings. I suppose it's possible. Even a stuck and dragging brake caliper might behave oddly. If, when the symptom does show-up, turning tight circles on flat dry pavement was quite a bit worse than driving straight - I'd say that would point to the center diff fairly conclusively. Also, I'd expect a wheel bearing that was binding due to heat might be a measurably warmer than it's mate (same with a dragging brake) so, when the problem next arises, perhaps compare temps side-to-side with an infrared thermometer. They are cheap. Take some measurements when the problem is NOT present as well as when it is - sorta log normal vs failure conditions. Have the driveline checked out. maybe someone else will have some ideas.

yep - you can even take the tip off and fit a length of hose. just a small trickle of gas will do. probably use a BBQ lighter too - just blow out the flame; I dunno if WD-40 would work, maybe some other solvents like brake cleaner would? You could fit a vacuum gauge too - compare readings when the engine is running smooth vs sputtering.

^^^ good idea, if you can catch it sputtering at idle, open the hood and spray some Ether Start or even some propane around the vacuum hoses and intake manifold. If it smooths out, you may be near a vacuum leak.

on the NA cars there isn't a lot you can do. lighter rims might free-up some power for acceleration. lightweight crank pulley too.

cheapest is probably a 'turn-down' - not as loud as you'd think but 'loud', might be worth trying.

if you don't care about the speedo/odo - you could run taller tires too.

2011 and 12 Forry will have a timing chain - not belt not sure when that happened on the Outback

some people toss around King Springs but, I have no experience with those.

^^^ hmmm, I think I read where there was a weight limit on how much a canister could weigh. maybe find that value and pull the canister and weigh it? Saturated cansiter would weigh a lot more than 'dry' I'd guess. maybe the gas tank's vent valve stuck open would lead to this? Or a malfunctioning Purge valve?

^^^ look for oil in the plug tubes too. might not hurt to try a tank with a bottle of Techron, or maybe SEaFoam too.

interesting; I hope someone can post some examples of good vs bad plungers. or what ebay seller to avoid, etc.

I just don't know. The PZEV could make it different/unique. I did get to converse a little with a tech about the issue of 'spiders' or something causing pressure to buildup in the canister - preventing easy refueling. He had seen 2 Foresters with re-fueling problems and he said one was definitely spider-'stuff- he had to blow out. Evidently some cars have a valve on the Drain-side, some have a little box with a paper filter? maybe both? , I will probably be able to find most of the components if I can get the car into my garage - just don't want to miss anything. I've even considered just locating the drain line from thew canister and disconnecting it from any Drain valve, and building a screen-wire cylinder to attach the end, then just poke/secure that up outta the way. let the spiders and the ECU have a dead drain valve and some hoses/filters for their amusement. The problem , I THINK (it's just a theory) is, the dealership is 17 miles away and if the ECU runs a Purge before the car gets there, the pressure would be relived in the canister, That's why it never fails for the service writers over there. This last time, I took video immediately after we picked up the car of my BIL unable to fill the tank without it continually shutting off. Dropped the car back at the dealership - they say they need the Regional guy. probably want to make sure mother Sooby will pay them for 'exploratory surgery'. But, I can GUARANTEE you, this will happen again if there is ANY opening into which these spiders can crawl. The only way to fix this is, a perforated surface like a cylinder of screen-material on the end of w'ever hose or nipple or cylindrical boss is the final atmospheric opening. Once, they told my 85 year-old MIL that she needed to spray bug spray under her car regularly! that is BS.

make sure you use a weight of oil appropriate for winters there. I guess make sure your tires are OK for that environment too. If possible, consider installing an engine warmer/'block heater' w'ever they are called.

Looking for pics and/or diagrams showing the components, layout and, ideally, location on vehicle, of the components connected to the charcoal/carbon canister. Where the drain line goes, if there's a drain valve where it is, where the ultimate end allowing access to the atmosphere is (hose end or filter box or valve nipple, etc.) thanx guys

Baja springs and struts could be a good swap. dunno if they are backwards compatible that far though.

you can get contacts and plungers for rebuilding it.

well, it isn't clear the oil level is being checked correctly or on any type of schedule so, make certain the car is level, if it was just running, wait 5 minutes or more, pull the stick and wipe it, wait a minute, insert the stick fully, then check, look at both sides of the stick. Do that again to see what the reading is on average. Consider changing the PCV valve. Whent the timing belt was doen, was the engine removed from the car or any other work done? Has the oil pan been dented? what brand and weight oil is being used?

Her car was in the shop again. they say they were able to fill it. I went with my BIL this morning to Hiley Subaru in west Fort Worth. It had been sitting there a coupla days. I followed him the a nearby gas station. I filmed him attampting to fuel the car. On the lowest volume part of the locking system it repeatedly clicked off. Drove it back, he showed them the video, they basically said they can't do anything withoit the regional guy. so, kinda disappointing. Spoke a a tech there while waiting around. He explained where a coupla parts are, he said they had a coupla customers with spiders and one ladies car hasn't come back after a valve was replaced. So, maybe know more about what's happening later on. 2 things come to mind here; the highway trip of 17 miles or so MAY be clearing the problem such that the dealership isn't guranteed to see it. And, maybe day-night cycles or some other issue with sitting around is contributing to the problem.? The tech i spoke with said the 2 cars he worked on was definitely spider webs/debris. __________________

no hose clamp - get a Viton metric 928 o-ring. There is a 'dimple' on the tab on the cap that seems to be there to limit rotation travel - carefully approach it. It seems like it would be easy to ramp it up in the plastic lug and put stress on the tab. You'll see or dig around the Forums for images/instructions. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

yeah that sensor, and knock sensors, are kinda famous for causing marginal-running consditions with no code thrown. sounds like you're in love with the car again!

You may need to refresh some ground connection somewhere. They can get corroded. If you put your original sensor in, what readings do you get? battery and charge circuit OK?

I suppose lean conditions would increase the heat load. that is the worst cap and worst repair i have ever seen!

someone with more experience might answer. I'd say your only other hope might be a SeaFoam Spray treatment - probably not a waste of time even if it doesn't help the problem.

did you install the new sensor with some kind of thread treatment? It might rely on the threads for a ground connection (not sure) try everything else first but, new sensor could be bad I suppose.

that's the front axles - known problem 99% due to aftermarket rebuilt/new chinese axles. Re-booted used (or new - $$$$) Subaru axles will probably be the only fix for that. Knock sensor could be bad.