1 Lucky Texan

Just don't see a lot of wings on wagons. No question it has been done so, just a matter of finding a style you like - then finding a way to attach it without interfering with use of the hatch or creating a water leak. here's some links with a few pics and some info I guess; http://www.speedhunters.com/2008/09/event_gt_gt_hks_hiper_challenge_at_tsukuba_pt_1/ http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/dolphin-rear-wing-02on-subaru-wagon-wrx-p-445.html http://www.aliexpress.com/promotion/automobiles_subaru-wrx-rear-spoiler-promotion.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569818 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2381565

^^^ yep, plus, some people have used long/overnight coolant system pressurization to find leaking HGs. But, many times the HGs fail in odd ways, like exiting a highway, then, they seem to be OK at idle again. Seems weird that he recommended what he did - like he's ashamed of his work and/or trying to dodge getting back inside this engine. everyone makes mistakes - we make them where I work. But paying customers want a reasonable solution, not a dodge or run-around. you might consider also posting for a shop recommendation here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16 and here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=26 hope it works out.

first, thank for your service to our country. (my father, grandfather and all 4 of my uncles served. i did not experience that honor) I did a brief google search around hankins and noticed the dealership in Oneonta (5 star?) seemed to have good reviews. I am very confused about your mechanic and have some concerns his headgasket job has failed. The air pocket/bubble we refer to is NOT the same as combustion products leaking into the coolant system ('blown headgasket). basically, it is a one-time procedure done during or immediately after re-filling the system. Either a special fill thru a temporarily removed hose end, or a 'burping' maneuver often done with the car's front wheels up on ramps or jackstands. He may have needed to have the heads resurfaced or, in some other manner, failed to get the HG job done correctly. But i think you may need to try to get your mechanic to stand by his work - unless you are getting bad 'vibes' from him and want to start over. Again, kinda hoping someone on out Forum has a shop suggestion. Your car may be able to get by fairly well in the summer without a t'stat - you may have lower gas mileage - but winter will be brutal. For you AND the car's engine and performance. You will get poor mileage amd maybe carbon deposits and perhaps stress the catalytic converter. He needs to stand by his work or offer a GOOD diagnosis that points to some unrelated new problem. Kudos on getting the timing belt done on time! I guess we have to assume he used a TRUE OEM-style t'stat and not some aftermarket 'listed' for the car; Our cars are picky about a handful of things; spark plugs and wires, some of the emissions sensors, and thermostats. And no drilling should be required. I have poor social skills, but I've had my best luck with approaches using the following general guidelines; when you discuss your car with your mechanic, try not to use the word 'you' too much. say "I feel the car still needs follow-up service." I need this car to be reliable and safe - i don't care about a slow drip or a tiny rattle or a little dent. I DO need to trust the car was repaired correctly." . Sometimes you have to use a line like; "If you were me, how would feel about this issue?" What should I do next to get my car repaired correctly?" bring up how much you've already paid and car isn't repaired. But, at some point, you may have to decide to write-off your relationship with this guy unless you want to go to small claims or other court. i doubt he wants to be in front of a judge next to a disabled vet! Still, I doubt anyone over the internet can help too much. We do best when people have car problems, not people problems. Even with car problems, it's difficult.

how many miles on the car? when was the timing belt last changed? ANY other issues with the car? any wrecks or repair work before this happened? could be 1 or 2 confusion factors here; if a new t'stat worked when tested on the bench, it should work in the car UNLESS a huge air bubble was somehow preventing coolant flow. A 'subaru expert' would know how to confirm there was no air in the system so......? is coolant being pushed into the overflow bottle? OUT of the overflow bottle? Does coolant pushed in to the overflow get pulled back into the radiator when the car cools? Can you rent or borrow a car for any urgent trips? Also, post a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near Hankins - I think your Subaru Expert has dropped the ball somewhat here.

next time it doesn't start, whack the starter with a piece of wood. Not like swinging to clear the stands, maybe start with a 'bunt', then try for a single. If it starts, probably need to rebuild the solenoid - common repair. Might not make sense though if it doesn't push start....? There's a clutch switch that can go bad - not sure you'd get that buzzing though....? some outbacks and legacies in that year range have problems with their fuel pumps but, I think the Impreza chassis are different?

re-fresh the contacts/plunger in the starter?

clean the IAC valve?

sorry, Throttle Position Sensor

another item that can cause issues in an RPM 'range' would be the TPS. But don't most people have an engine 'cutting-out' symptom with TPS problems?

if, after warming up, you can have a helper hold the RPMs in the failing/rough range - try spraying something like Ether Start around the intake manifold - maybe the vacuum lines too. Just incase higher temps are causing a gasket or other intake parts to fail. in some older soobs, crank sensors would be intermittent/fail at higher temps. freezeframe or similar data might help pinpoint a system that is marginal too. Some OBD scanners can get that data. Other methods can get more data or even show live data.

what? 8 x 45 = 360

can you guys get/distribute NTN axles or CV joints for Subarus?

I may do that, but I also kept one of my old axles. I may get enthusiastic and rebuild that one to swap back in. EMPI was sold/bought BETWEEN my purchases and, evidently, there have been more problems now than previously. They may be called Empire now ?

the first EMPI I installed was fine, the second one vibrates. ymmv

soob bearings are variable as to exhibiting typical failure modes but, it's worth trying the 12-6 o'clock rocking test. I found a bad bearing on my WRX that way. Compare it to its mate. My bad rear bearing moved maybe only 2mm or less. The other side didn't move at all. maybe use an infrared thermometer to check temps in case one bearing is consistently 40-50 degrees hotter than it's mate.

it would def. suck in the winter but, you could bypass the core.

only a noise? no 'jerkiness'/vibration felt, right? Also, if you were to coast in neutral, would the sound change?

was the problem you have now present before the tire change? if the car was operated with a dissimilar tire on dry pavement, that could cause problems due to 'torque bind' and portions of the drivetrain could have suffered from too much stress build-up. Will the care idle through tight turns on dry paved surfaces without jerking or bucking? There should be a FWD fuse position inside the fuse box. You can insert a spare fuse of any amperage and see if the problem goes away. Other componenets to inspect would be u-joints, carrier bearing and axles I guess. (Subaru wants all 4 tires within 1/4" [7mm ?] CIRCUMFERENCE of each other)

see if there is any change if you swap tires front to back. Good opportunity to inspect the tires, brakes and other gear too. you do understand the tires must be the same size; as in, same brand/model/size and even wear-level within 2-3-4 or so 32nds/inch right? bad for the AWD system if not.

get some real soob units from car-part.com and rebuild them. Raxles.com just some more ideas.

the green connectors under the dash might cycle the valves. Won't tell you if they or their hoses are plugged, but you should be able to feel them vibrate. Or, as said, try running a day or 2 with the gas cap loose. If the car behaves the same, my suggestion is all wrong.

if it happens again, you may need to troubleshoot some trailer or other wiring.

yeah, I know about the pressure control valve and the tank's vent valve too. Just seems 1.5 seconds shouldn't be 'normal'. I could MAYBE see a little of that happening after a day or 2 temp cycling in a warm climate followed by a short trip to the gas station before the ECU cycles any valve, but, the whole system is designed to PREVENT a whoosh of vapors escaping to the atmosphere. Those vapors are 'supposed' to be adsorbed in the carbon canister. We're in the midst of fighting an issue with my MIL's Forester not taking fuel (or only taking it at EXTREMELY slow rates) so, I've tried to educate myself a little about the tank's evap and fueling systems. Lots of ways that stuff can fail. There's failed valves, gummed-up valves, saturated canisters, spider. mud or frozen condensation clogged tubing - it's crazy! But the vent valve 'should' prevent much pressure build-up, unless the canister or its drain 'system' is clogged with spiders or something. My MIL's Forester sits outside and can go several days without driving. And, when driven, is only driven very short distances. No permanent solution to the fueling problem after 2 visits to the dealer - just returned after visit 3. We'll see how it goes. I think PGH should closely examine the evap system back there at the tank. But I admit it's a longshot.

yeah, people 'lap' them on a piece of plate/float glass with silicon carbide. I think there are even pics around somewhere..... yeah, check; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/?hl=%2Bglass+%2Bheads+%2Bsurface

It's my understanding, as fuel is used, external air would be brought through the carbon canister into the tank to prevent a vacuum. It seems slightly lower-than-atmo pressure would be more likely than higher?