1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I think your car is built like my wife's which has splined stubs sticking out from the front diff. The big axle cups are splined internally and slip over the stubs and are held in place by a spring pin. However, the stubs are held into the diff by a 'circlip' (w'ever) a circle of springwire in a groove. (IIRC) Some of your initial symptoms seem to fit a scenario in which a 'hard' turn (to the lock) could have pulled on the stub enough to pop it loose - enough to compromise the diff seal - cause leakage of the fluid (which might blow back onto the exhaust) and maybe cause the smell (diff oil smells bad anyway - so it may smell different than engine oil if it got on hot exhaust) thuinking and other odd driveline sensations you report. Doesn't mean any of that is correct, but it's something different to look for. (could be the previous owner got an axle that was too short - or, the stub was pulled out of it's groove just slightly when the old axle was pulled out, but your hard turn when reversing pulled it more, comprimised the seal, it bound-up and is now so far out of place is intermittently engaging internally) -
OK - I'm gonna suggest a differential stub has popped out partially and the seal is leaking too. Check the front diff oil level. Get under the car and examine the inner and outer boots and look for diff oil.
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can't help thinking about
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I bet somebody could use that trailer hitch.
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I didn't detect much difference in apparent weight/sturdiness - except the EMPI axle I got seemed to have tougher rubber boots than the OEM I took off.
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first, sorry about the size of that pic, other Forums auto-resize large images. No, that was at my first real job. Just some old electronics gear we used.
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It is very disrespectful to friction, and will banish it to the land of Wind and Ghosts!
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that'll buff right out. (glad you're OK - that's what's important)
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It isn't unusual for O2 sensors to become 'lazy' as they get older and won't switch fast enough. Clearing a lot of codes and monitoring how quickly the come back is a good idea. I've has 'spurious' codes on my wife's Outback from a battery with a bad cell. And my youngest daughter's Impala set some weird fuel-related code. I reset the ECU and the code's been gone for months. But, just recently, she had to have a battery cable replaced for hidden coorosion - so, maybe some kinda low/marginal voltage can cause odd codes sometimes. If your sensors are original, they are likely getting old. The codes rarely point to a part that's bad - they point to a system that is not satisfying the ECU's threshold requirements. But I bet a lot of people have dropped $800 on a converter when an $80 sensor would have been all they needed. If you can also get your short/long term fuel trims read from FreezeFrame data, that 'might' show something too. But the system will try to compensate for vacuum leaks and bad/dirty MAF and other issues so, it's a great idea to start there first.
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I don't have a lot of pics of myself, here's one when I caught a mole in my front yard lol! here's couple of me from the early/mid 70s !!!;
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all kinda cars running that day(about 4 soobs total IIRC) - including, some kinda Audi wagon, a Boxster, a sick lowered VW, a Z06, a Lotus Elise,a Mustang AND a lady in a Saturn Vue!!!
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Good post. I was gonna suggest it might just be from condensation given the limited extent of it. And I've seen that before on other cars I've owned (not soobs). But I guess I never thought about the PCV valve connection - good info. thanx.
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so, did a bad axle break the ball joint? Or, the other way?
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+1 on removing weight (mass). The calculations vary with vehicle weight but, a rule of thumb is; 11 lbs. = 1 hp. and if that is rotating mass, it's even more. do you need a back seat or a spare tire? Some folks even try to use motorcycle/ATV batteries to save weight!
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consider the Empi 80-5521 mine's been fine on my wife's Outback. Good pricing from Rockauto, maybe check Amazon too. They are all new, assembled in the US (with a new Chinese CV joint IIRC) so, everything is properly precision ground and heat treated. came with a new pin and the gold nut and 12 month warranty. So far, working fine. Or go with MWE, they seem to be everyone's favorite rebuild.
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I have had some luck challenging a local dealer with online prices, got them to match, and 'almost' match in 2 instances. But, yeah, not uncommon for some dealers to mark-up dramatically I guess.
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just bumping in case anyone else needs the torque values; both seem to be 25 ftlbs.) The noise is still intermittently occurring. After reading that sometimes the o-ring/hose connection to the PS Pump can allow air to be sucked in and cause noise, the next time I drove her car, I exercised the wheel from lock to lock, as the pump would strain at the limits, she says "That's the sound I heard!" So, I need to investigate that hose deal.
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Oil pressure sending unit for gauge
1 Lucky Texan replied to Stubies Subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
dunno about soobs, but from experiences with a Mitsubishi and a Toyota, don't buy any aftermarket that has a smaller hole in it than stock - bigger OK, just not smaller. And be VERY careful to wipe things off in that area and don't let any debris get in when you re-install the new sender. They can read weird if debris gets in the hole. -
you could get a g-tech or, if you have a smart phone, download an acceleration app. That way, you do a few runs before each mod, then a few after the mod, and measure the improvement in hp/torque.
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you might check the battery voltage but, it seems more like there's a common ground somewhere. If you wiggle some cables, will the radio come on? maybe someone will have a schematic and respond with that info.
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How are wipers, cig lighter, and radio related? well, when it's raining so hard the wipers don't clear enough water to see, you pull over, listen to the radio, and light a cig to wait for the storm to ease up. what do i win?
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I suppose if you approach it as a 'project'/'toy' it would be a lot of fun. But, IF you rely on it as your daily driver, I think you will have a lot of frustration ahead of you. Just be prepared, have a Plan B at every step, and some back-up means of transportation. I wonder if CCR has an EJ22T short block you could start with? anyway, I hope it goes smoothly. If you do get more ponies, do not neglect your braking upgrades!
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well, every climate has it's problems, it's rare for a battery to last more than 2.5 - 3 years here. sigh
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I've read that the threaded holes are for 8mm bolts. I pity you guys that have corrosion problems, I just take my rotors right off. I DO use a wire brush on the surfaces and on the wheels studs - but there's only a little surface rust. I use this for lubing the sliding parts;
