1 Lucky Texan

Well, with the moisture added in to the picture I'd say this is a high voltage problem. Wires or cracked coil pack or something. Sometimes, with the car running at night, hood up, you can see the sparking/arcing around the wires/boots/coilpack(so i've read - never tried it). If not, try spraying a squirt bottle of water around - forst one side, then the other to try to pinpoint the problem. could be something else though. Do you get a CEL? Carl

does your rear brake system resemble this?; http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/brakes/rotors/rotors.html Carl

Yeah I don't think our '03 OBW H6 has any of that stuff. So THAT'S where the xtra ponies came from! thanx Carl

It may just be kinda stuck with a layer of rust, gently bang it with a big hunk of wood or a hammer with a piece of wood to protect it. Then, you wil see it is loose but, as said, likely captured by the caliper bracket. Support the bracket with some wire or twine tied ut to the spring otr something and then remove the bracket bolts. The string will prevent the caliper from stressing the brake hose.

I don't think anyone could quantify any decrease in engine lifespan. At least, not any that could be directly attributed to the filter. There have been reports of increased silicon (read dust) in some used oil analyses - but no one seems to know if the actual particle size is detrimental to the bearing surfaces. There HAVE been people who destroyed MAF sensors with oiled filters - be careful not to 'over' oil it. (does your car have a MAF?)

I agree with Setright - that consumption is not high. Some old V8s would use a quart in 900 miles and the manufacturer said it was normal!(of course - it's a V8) Still, before you panic, maybe a test (leak down test?) would tell you wheter it's the rings or just a valve guide/seal. One type repair may be cheaper/easier. or Try a heavier weight oil and just drive it.

WOW! didn't know that! beginning what year? Carl

I don't see how the cam's actual rotation speed is affected quickly enough to alter valve DURATION during a fraction of a stroke. To me it DOES look as if the cam is being 'shifted' to begin it's opening of the valve at different degrees (based on several ECU parameters as outlined at that link) to positively affect performance. The i-Active thing MAY have an effect of increasing valve lift AND slightly increasing duration - but only because the 'pin' may allow the follwer to stay in contact with the lobe for a greater percentage of its profile - I'm less confi\dent about this - just a guess. I wonder if the 2 systems can be combined someday in one engine? Carl

found this;>>>Overlapping the timing of the closing of the exhaust valves and the opening of the intake valves can help the engine perform better under heavy loads, but not under light loads. AVCS continuously varies this overlap through an infinite number of positions. Overlap ranges between a slight overlap (“retard” position) through as much as 35 degrees of the crankshaft rotation (“advance” position).<<< from here; http://www.drive.subaru.com/Win05_WhatsInside.htm and >>>More Power and Enhanced Automatic Transmission The naturally aspirated 2.5-liter boxer engine in Impreza 2.5 i and Outback Sport models gains the new i-Active Valve Lift system that boosts horsepower to 173 from 165 in the 2005 models. Just as important, the new technology improves real world drivability and performance. Peak torque output remains at 166 lb.-ft. at 4,400 rpm – still one of the highest torque ratings in the segment. Using oil pressure generated by engine speed and load, the i-Active system varies intake valve lift by locking the tappet into a higher position by means of a transverse pin. The effect is that of having two separate tappets to act on the camshaft lobe operating the intake valve. Variable lift works on one of the two intake valves. At low engine speeds the two valves open at different levels, causing a swirl of air and fuel and boosting torque. At higher speeds, both valves are opened in the “high” position to increase horsepower.<<< Carl

There are 2 different systems. There is a dual lift system which does involve a pin being engaged. There is the variable valve system whic is in the cam sprockets. Now, is the variable valve system truly analog or is it simply switching from one timing to another? Intersting stuff carl

wow! I just flashed on a term I haven't used in decades!; Oklahoma Credit Card ! lol!!! Carl

Ran across a mention that the Baja is saved for '07 - if only I could remember where I saw that......... Carl

Seems like you have noticed a change - and assuming it is 'more than subtle' I think a little experimentation may be called for. One thing to try is resetting the ECU. You maybe get Autozone or a friendly indie mech to do it for you, or tey disconnecting the neg batt terminal, pressing the brake pedal once or twice, waiting maybe 20-30 minutes. Recoonect and drive 'normally'. The car will 'relearn' it's map based on usage from that point. I do seem to recall a certain year or 2 where there was a 'reflash' for auto trannies too. Maybe someone recalls or you could check at www.my.subaru.com for recalls. It may have been a TSB. Soobs are fairly light cars so it's distinctly probable it is just trying to cope with the load. Seems weird it would be temperature related though. Carl

I have decided to forego the RASB and may begin just with the front camber as you suggested. Cheap, easy to undo or alter. Ansd sensible I feel. A good fit for my intended use for this car - at leats initially. I seem to recal that there is some passive 4 wheel (rear wheel) steering built into these cars to help fight oversteer. I dunno where I saw that. If I get lighter wheels in the winter/early spring, I will wait to see what that feels like before doing any other suspension upgrades. I suspect, IF the stock wheels are 20-22 lbs. (a guess - still no definitive answer) and I can get some wheels in the 15-17 lb range it may have the effect of stiffer springs - not sure. thanx for replying Carl

Probably need a 'deep' style socket - 6 sided probably preferred. Carl

So, just exactly what happens during 'break in'? It certainly doesn't seem to be anything that affects the cylinder walls. What exactly happens the the rings when the rings are 'seated'? Carl

If I throw increased rear camber into the mix, how does that affect your feeling on adding a slightly stiffer rear AS bar? That is, stock springs struts etc. Just increased front and rear camber(probably need camber bolts for the rear) keep the stock links but put in the RASB? Still too tail happy? Honestly, if I ever put springs on the car, I really do not want to slam it - 3/4 inch or so would be great. But, initially I wouldn't mind tweaking it the easy/cheap way. Though I think your wisdom about brake/oversteer is good, especially for a daily driver like this car. I always appreciate the insight from the regulars here like yourself. thanx Carl

I have an '06 on order. I thought the engine has been out for a year or so in the Forester? I dunno. I'm excited and a little trepidatious - first turbo ever for me! Carl

Maybe it's something as simple as some object under the lever not allowing it to fully retract? Or some carpet fuzz gumming it up somehow. Sounds like a simple problem but getting it resolved could involve some crazy disassembly! good luck Carl

I recall threads in the past where folks used Hella 500s with an aftermarket bracket (Kartboy?) or fashioned their own bracket.. Try a search. if it wasn't here - try over at http://www.nasioc.com Carl

I'll bet she's gonna enjoy it. I know my wife sometimes misses her van, moreso when the family is over cause we could haul 6-7 people. But every 2-3 weeks she mentions how she's had some comment from someone or a long conversation about the OBW - so I think she appreciates it as well. The van had her sitting higher off the ground and she misses that - but it was a beast to park - horrible turning radius. Ryan emails me with info, updates 5-6 times a week! He really takes care of his customers - I just wish they'd get my car in soon! Latest info indicates that Hurst and Arlington are both planning on staying open, and I guess Ryan is staying in Arlington - he was initially scheduled tomove to Hurst but things change I suppose. Carl

everything I've ever read warns to avopid silicone based stuff for leather. not sure why. sorry, that's all I know Carl

There's nothing magical about Subaru. They're cars and cars can have problems, be frustrating or even be lemons. I've a owned a fair variety of cars. I REALLY liked my Honda and my Datsun. Personnally, I feel my Subaru (soon to be plural as I have a WRX wagon on order from Ryan at Teape) is probably in the same range of economy/performance, style/practicality, safety/convenience and reliability. All autos have trade offs. Yeah, it's doubtful the AWD aspect of my cars will get much of a workout in D/FW, but if I need to visit my daughter in CoSpgs during the winter - I won't need to worry about traction. Actually, I'd likely buy a Soob even if it didn't have AWD. I'm a fan - that could change I suppose if I had experienced a Subaru lemon - but I haven't. And I guess the engineering/science 'fan' in me is impressed with Subaru's design approach. Go drive 2-3 models, pay attention to the seat feel, entry/exit and highway noise/performance - sounds like you'll be in the car a LOT. Carl

Is the substance used by Mobil in that product available seperately? Would it be compatible with 'normal' oils? good review! Carl

Some folks have a habit of depressing the accelerator pedal while cranking/starting. It has been mentioned that this habit can confuse the ECU as it is trying to record some kinda minimum TPS position. Try to confirm your foot is not pressing the gas pedal during starting and see if that makes any difference. just a guess - but HEY!, that's what you asked for! Carl