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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. not sure about the overflowing.... I have used ice cubes , shaken vigorously, to clean the radiator overflow.
  2. air in the PS fluid quite likely. had to replace o-rings on suction hose adapters on both my soobs.
  3. any chance you could use a mechanic's stethoscope or even a dowel rod or long screwdriver to the ear to pin-down the location better? my first gut-feelings were serpentine belt idler/tensioner bearings, or possibly cracked flexplate.
  4. ^^^good post, second the oil minor point but, easy for folks to overlook the cabin air filter.
  5. if it's like a squeal, could be the backing plate has trapped some debris against the rotor, or is dragging?
  6. welcome back Dusty, there are folks here with ej22 swap experience. Someone will reply I'm sure - the recent virus issue may have some folks a bit distracted. try a search to read about swaps.
  7. EDITED; have half-shaft/CV axle nuts been torqued with wheels on the ground? FSM says not to do that - no weight on the wheels.
  8. check hub/rotor/caliper temps with an infrared thermometer after a highway run. is the wobble in sync with tire roation - or, 'about' 4 times faster? if you lightly touch the brakes while wobbling, can you feel pulses in the brake pedal or, does it change the symptom? did this begine gradually or after some work on the car?
  9. Pretty sure my 06 WRX wagon got a faster ratio vs 05. Maybe the 05 Saabaru was ahead of the curve?????
  10. does it idle rough? if so, try a stream of propane from a handheld torch or some ether-start into the intake. If idle smooths-out, that may point to a fueling issue. check all grounds.
  11. one thing for certain, you must use the FWD fuse in the block under the hood if you mix tire sizes. Even very slight differences are very stressful on the drive train and it's usually the trans that suffers. so, use of the donut requires use of the FWD fuse. seriously. tires need to be the same size/brand/model and near each other in wear. that trans also needs OEM or compatible fluid. of course, check fluid level when idling.
  12. hmmmmm....did this same shop do the brake work that preceded the rattling problem? kinda wondering if some 'accident' is being 'covered-up' -like the car shifted/dropped on the lift or ????? if we think a welded nut or other steel object is causing the noise, maybe a very strong magnet in some various areas near the rear support for the lwr ctrl arm's rear bushing - might 'trap' something loose?
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