1 Lucky Texan

hmmmmm....did this same shop do the brake work that preceded the rattling problem? kinda wondering if some 'accident' is being 'covered-up' -like the car shifted/dropped on the lift or ????? if we think a welded nut or other steel object is causing the noise, maybe a very strong magnet in some various areas near the rear support for the lwr ctrl arm's rear bushing - might 'trap' something loose?

hows the anti-rattle hardware? supposed to keep pads from rattling.

quite possible incorrect alternators from parts store.

try pb blaster, then tighten a little, then loosen....

any chance there's a CD stuck in the radio? that has caused problems on some cars before. stuck in some EJECT cycle.

the NA (non-turbo) Imprezas will not have the asymmetric 'rumble' like the turbo models - unless an unequal length header is installed. I don't really understand the OP's question - has the original exhaust system rusted away? anyway - it is possible to interfere with proper pressure pulse 'propagation' if the exhaust piping is of mixed diameters. But, many folks fit partial or entirely new complete exhaust systems without drama. I wouldn't expect noticeable power increase.

unlikely the rotors will help much IMHO - fresh fluid is important as old brake fluid has a reduced boiling point due to moisture. many people like EBC. I run Stoptech Street Performance (they have a different name now?) and they are good value for an upgraded pad. Long-lasting, noise free, great 'cold bite', good modulation, etc. Higher MOT than Hawk.

possible IACV hose loose?

could be a bent pin or swollen rubber 'damper' causing it to bind. Although extremely rare - there have been cases of hydraulic lines having an internal lining fail such that a 'flap' is created that acts like a check valve.

when it slips, the RPM and engine 'sound' increase with no speed increase?

can you take the mechanic for a drive and demonstrate the problem?

conditioner does ZERO for internal HG leaks. It will ameliorate/stop external weeping, pinhole leaks in rad. and some hose leaks. If you have no; 'blowing-out' the overflow, heater going cold, bubbles in the radiator/overflow or wavering/odd temp gauge behaviors - the block test is a complete waste of time/money. The block test works best to distinguish combustion gasses from 'steam'. If there is no stream of bubbles, there's no reason to try it.

2005 and newer got a bump in HP, dunno when the H6 finally went to using regular gas.

sounds like the car is symptom free so, I wouldn't bother with the test.

hmmmm...abs pump may be in that area......???

can someone pace the car outside while you go in reverse? (be safe) Try to find which corner or see if it's 'central' or from the engine bay.... long-shot guess, some kinda debris between backplate and rotor.

Legitimacy confirmed by a known Forum participant "at another forum" who happens to be a salesman at a dealership in Oklahoma. He also mentioned there is a push on to get older cars done as they are at greatest risk. I'm gonna try to schedlule the work soon but at a dealership. Better in case there's an issue afterwards.

DANG!

Ugh, trying to reply on phone. Great find on LinkedIn! I left a message at MarketSou e's website but, seems legit. A d weird.

here's his card;

I dunno, could it be a 'roll-over' kill switch of some kind?

well, not really Yesterday, a guy in a Subaru truck, wearing a Subaru shirt/hat/badge, came by my house looking for my WRX. Evidently, he is tasked with replacing pass side airbags. Of course, my car is 30 minutes away with me at work. Didn't say anything about my wife's Outback (which has had a like-for-like swap already) getting an upgrade. She didn't know enough to ask. Seems to be out of a regional office in Georgia? not sure, maybe some 3rd party guys hired by SOA? When I do the airbag thing, much rather do it at a local dealer. Easier to go back if they mess something up.

new rims can really personalize a vehicle - and, if the new rims+tires weigh less than now, a reduction in rotating mass frees-up a pony or 2 for more gogogo!

great thread no adhesive needed to hold the gaskets in place?

5mm additional inside and out, so, 'probably' OK.