1 Lucky Texan

might have been better to get a significant price reduction, then have a local independent soob-friendly shop do the work. They may very well change a gasket, but will they use a quality gasket and properly prep the surface of the heads? also, wonder if the timing belt systems has been properly serviced with Japanese parts? I'd say its risky even without knowledge of the 'shady aspect' of the dealer.

thanx - I may never dive into ours that deeply, but this could help some folks in the future.

uh - wanna share the numbers you found?

my MIL had to have the tank replaced on her 2010 Forester. some built-in valves at the top were stuck closed. pulling various hoses off when filling might tell you where the issue is.

and now the fun begins!

2001 I don't think is known for piston slap is it? that is something that seems to stop after warming-up. ugh - beat by 6 minutes!

maybe a dust shield is loose?

many folks 'upgrade' but, maybe there's an older Subaru model to which you could 'DOWNgrade' to get smaller rotor/caliper combo?

tooth counts for timing belts can be found on-line....have you searched for tooth or link counts or w'ever for the EZ 6 cylinder engines?

ist the car new to you? if not, any repairs or wrecks before this began?

some odd things can happen from 2 sources; frayed/shorted wires in the body-to-hatch rubber boot. and brake light bulbs or corrosion in the bulb sockets.

my total guess, something has worn enough to allow too much toe-out.

anyone change from underneath? worked well on our Outback.

so, that seems to be 2 plugs with and 2 without - lol!

^^^ that yeah, just get in and listen to the alarm while you cycle the key from OFF to ON (not Start) 3 times. That should stop the alarm and let you drive the car.

figured it's time, 75K miles on originals - 13 years old. so, I got 4 6481 NGK ILFR6B plugs I want to put in, just wondering if there's anything to watch out for and how many of you would use oil or never-seize on the threads. I think NGK recommends dry install. should be similar to our 03 H6es COPs right? I also have an atmospheric temp sensor but dunno where it's mounted, my original has been reading 7 degrees low for years.

our ratings are an average of Resaerch and Molecular. many othe markets use molecular only I think??? someone else may have the specifics better than I do but, my gut says your 91 is appropriate. that said, the ECU DOES get dynamically 'remapped' with data from the knock sensor. There are ways to determine if knock events are occurring and if corrections have been made to the ignition timing. front O2/A:F sensors? Do not use generic or Bosch sensors. OEM or Denso only. Also, I think coolant can 'poison' some sensors so, make sure the car is otherwise in good health - no coolant issues and working PCV valve/system.

it has to do with you and your clothes and possibly your shoes, etc. not much different than scooting your sneakers across carpet and touching some metal in the house, except it's probably your sweater/shirt/coat rubbing across the seat cushion or similar friction.

rig a vacuum gauge to watch, see if there's a big change when the power loss hits. that might condemn the catalytic converter as mentioned above.

^^^ lol!

have used Kumho, I like them for a 'value' tire. Had Solus on the Outback, have used ECSTA ASX and 4x (I think) on the WRX. Great grip and good in rain. get a little noisier as they near the end of life. The outback presently has Pirelli Cinturatos and they continue to be awesome - they may have helped save us from disaster thru winter storm Ursa a few years ago coming back from Colorado. complete white-out on a road that closed about 8 cars after we entered. there are plenty of ratings on-line at tirerack and probably discount tire (my favorite tire store). Or go down to your local DT on a midweek-day, have a conversation with them about your driving style, budget.... - ask what tires they have been putting on other Subarus, etc.

strange, never read of this before. are you the only person with access to the car? could a daughter's boyfriend or some other person have been trying to do some maintenance on the car? (I raised 3 daughters. boyfriends are idiots. One left her car's emergency jack and tools at the side of the road.)

^^^^ yeah, what he said codes could be very helpful

never done the repair! - only read about it. If it's the dash temp sensor that's bad, you'd be in 'some' danger not knowing if the engine began overheating. If it's the ECU part of the sensor (if a single sensor, it's a moot distinction as they are in the same housing on newer cars, 2 separate sensore on older cars)) ,the ECU may incorrectly richen or lean the A:F mixture since it will have incorrect data on engine temp.

one may be for the ECU, the other for the gauge (or light?) - not sure on a 2012...?