1 Lucky Texan

technically, it was due 7 years ago. there's a TIME side of the maintenance schedule.

Nissan - my daughters had a couple, one of them had a front main seal leak - dealer said 19 hour job, indie mech said 16 hours. It was much cheaper to just pour oil thru it so, it was still leaking when it was surrendered in a cash-for-clunkers program.

when I did the service on my WRX, I was at about 8.5 years but under 70K miles. the toothed idler and another idler spun like like skate wheels, the toothed idler also wobbled slightly. There was oil on top of my tensioner. Belt looked surprisingly good. No signs of seeping oil from crank or cam seals. I left the waterpump but changed the belt ,tensioner and all idlers.

I think 05s and maybe up a year or 2 have a reputation for bad solder joints on some elctronic parts. Any correlation with tapping/slapping the radio ? I also don't think it would be unusual to have speakers become intermittent so, see what hapens after a door slam or 2. try to narrow-down headunit vs speakers.

when was the timing belt system last serviced? Is the cel on and what codes are stored? (parts stores can scan for trouble codes - or a phone app and an ELM327BT adapter can be helpful) holding some small tubing to your ear and moving the other end around the intake tubing and other spots - maybe you'll hear a loud sound?

look thru the catalog? https://www.kyb.com/catalog/

Maybe nothing. maybe the plugs.coil are still wet or ??? and it doesn't start? just trying to figure out the current no-start. How does a blown radiator prevent starting?

OK, out near Abilene. cool

probably at least pull the timing covers. If it isn't starting due to slipped timing, you might get lucky, re-time it. If it starts (don't run it long) with no bad sounds, it could be worth the radiator. If the timing is correct, issues are likely more severe (stuck valve? thrown rod?...?) and maybe scrapping it is the best call? hope others respond

dang son! you annihilated that trail! even had some off-camber curves/turn-ins. where is that?

more likely on moist/damp mornings? any oil on plug wire boots?"

you could scan for a pending code after it happens. does it feel like an engine thing, or trans? maybe shift the trans manually to try to determine?

I guess rear wheel bearings need a close inspection. has the car been driven thru deep water?

a clogged/gummy PCV valve may make the problem worse so, no harm in replacing it.

when you say it "developed" the problem, did this come on slowly or was there a wreck or work done to the car before this began? New tires?

not sure on a 97, but some older soobs have a notoriously leaky 'air-oil separator' plate on the rear of the block. Check for that - if it's plastic, or seeping, it needs attention.

hard to get much out of the NA cars, turbos have room to take advantage of tuning. You can make it more fun to throw around the corners; stickier tires, springs, rear sway bar, street pads on the brakes, ...lighter weight rims give you a chance to personalize the car and gain a pony or 2 back from parasitic loss. maybe a lightweight crank pulley too. pull out any tools or other weight to lighten it. If you are always near home base and can call/get help easily, take the spare and jack tools out.

hmmmm.....well, with heat, resistance increases, and at your mileage ,perhaps battery cables are getting bad? Even just refreshing the starter and all the ground connections could help. also, in the mornings, you may have lower compression on an older motor so, maybe it spins a little easier?

make sure the TC gets fully re-inserted and do not use the bolts to force it the last 1/4"

I've read that carrier bearings can really make noise when they are going out.

If you hear the , or feel with a helper turning the key, the starter solenoid pull-in, you have worn contacts and maybe plunger in the starter. Very common with older soobs. There are rebuild parts available. It is also very likely to be intermittent. Sometimes just whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4 a coupla times will let it start the car. If the solenoid does not pull-in, then maybe bad N safety or even internally corroded battery cables ?

check rear bushings on the front lower control arms. end links for sway bar OK? kinda wonder about the u-joints now too.

coilovers could be an option - search for those.

must be driveline or suspension then. cv joint clicking will sometimes be 'quick' - 6 times per wheel rev. if clunking from inner joint, usually more like once per rev. the above are rough guidelines of course. Is it uneven when it occurs or repetitive?

check your owner's manual to confirm, but, I think it's a 'warning' that the pass side is presently disabled. weight of an 'adult' should turn the light off.