1 Lucky Texan

coilovers could be an option - search for those.

must be driveline or suspension then. cv joint clicking will sometimes be 'quick' - 6 times per wheel rev. if clunking from inner joint, usually more like once per rev. the above are rough guidelines of course. Is it uneven when it occurs or repetitive?

check your owner's manual to confirm, but, I think it's a 'warning' that the pass side is presently disabled. weight of an 'adult' should turn the light off.

that's where I keep a small pack of portable facial tissues - for when the head gasket or turbo fails.

hope they did the timing belt - every 105K miles OR 105 MONTHS .

you could idle the car when it's behaving normally, then, use a plant mister bottle to spray the plug wires and coil - monitor for roughness. you could pull the plug wire boots to check for oil. but yeah, waste spark means coil failure will always be 1 & 2, OR 3& 4

people are just trying to give you helpful advice. get used strut assemblies from car-part.com

your welcome. There may be 3-4 other videos but, I have seen productions from that same company and they are pretty good. The first time you do most maintenance procedures will take the longest, but you will be faster the next time. Youtube is the second-most popular search engine after Google. In addition to the Forums, it has helped me a lot.

some folks have used loaded sstrus but, I have not read enough about that to remotely get a feel for what brand is OK. have you looked at any youtube videos to help you decide about a DIY swap?

My concern is, what bearings are in the rollers (you want Japanese bearings) and is the belt a Mitsuboshi. You really want a OEM parts or an Aisin kit.

ah - I thought Forester was 2012 for the FB - sorry for the confusion.

later ones like this are much less-risky for catastrophic internal HG failures than the late 90s-early 2000s DOHC 2.5s. there can be external weeping of oil or coolant - not sure if it's any worse than other brands of used cars though. one could argue that, getting one with a little price reduction that soon NEEDS the TB system done is good from the standpoint that you can make sure the work is done properly.

great price! I think the Japanese and European bearings I saw there were in the 5$-$12 range. - each NAPA has bearings, I THINK I got one there and it was a Koyo (different size) Amazon I think has some Nachi, SKF, NTN ,Timken, Koyo ,and others, not sure on sizes available.....

here's a video, there are several similar (most of us would insist you stay with NGK brand plugs - other brands have caused problems) ;

wow, maybe check ground/power to the ECU.

seems like a 6202

I try, I've read a lot but really only have experience with my 2 subarus. And I also live where there's very little in the way of subaru-experienced shops. Until the last 5 years or so, Subarus were uncommon here. No snow, no mountains, etc, I guess. And, I either have 2 very long drives to get to a shop I trust, or would need to go to a dealer.

can the bearing be pressed from the pulley? any numbers on the bearing like 6203-rs or similar?

at NASIOC there are some regional sub-forums concerning vendors and shops - --,too bad, it does seem like you did proper diagnosis so, good luck on the trans swap. I think I have seen some users at subaruoutback.org from your neck of the woods - maybe ask for a shop recommendation over there?

I would have no hesitation using Timken on an older car. Indeed, Subaru wheel bearings fail often enough that I'm not convinced there's all that much special about OEM in this application.

get it diagnosed, maybe it's a front diff side-bearing?

if you pull a plug, is it wet with fuel? have you tried starting fluid?

from reading/participating at subaruoutback.org, I'd say 2016+ are the years you want to look at.

run the heater on full?