1 Lucky Texan

it was loud? how? scan for pending codes try starting with the pedal held to the floor, that signals the ECU to cut fuel in case of a 'flooded' engine. check the radiator for lost coolant. don't trust the overflow to reflect coolant level, but keep it filled to it's normal line and note any changes in its amount more than +/- a few ounces.

maybe check for bad cap/o-ring on fuel pump bad knock sensor can kill power

I'm also surprised it isn't a broken axle/'tripod' joint/cvj, given the history.

to be perfectly correct, at 3, you are bringing the crank to a belt install position, it isn't TDC, it's about 90* from that such that all the pistons are at mid-travel and well-clear of the valves. a good triple-check at the end before starting the car would be to do a tooth-count between all the timing marks. You find that info on-line. The belt reference marks will be gone after you crank the engine around 2 times. they may only repeat ever 197 revolutions or some crazy number.

ah, it wasn't clear what was busted but, yeah, boots don't last due to exposure to exhaust heat.

what brand/model ?

I've read advice from 1 or 2 folks I trust that you don't need to touch the cyl. walls, if that helps. clogged PCV valve could make oil use worse but, it does seem to me you have questionable valve seals.

if it fires with a squirt of ether-start, definitely check for the cap/o-ring problem as mentioned. You can still get the caps with a filter (toss the filter) and get a 928 metric o-ring. last I looked, Dorman had a kit for this on Amazon but, no idea of quality. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KG7K8GB/?coliid=I3K5K95AVIBSKV&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it scan for pending codes?

one of those 3rd party repair manuals used to screw-up folks on older soobs - it listed a crank pulley torque value that was way too low . inner cv joints get toasted by the exhaust or they would las longer than the outers. If caught within a few weeks of splitting, you can regrease and reboot them. Of course, anything 'could' go bad after 150k-200k miles......

pulley comes off, the toothed item on the c'shaft inside the covers is usually called a sprocket I think. Doesn't need to come off for just a belt, but sometimes gets swapped with engine some swaps(along with a cam pulley) or comes off to replace the seal as you said, maybe to check the keyway ???? or, some parts flying around in there when the timing slipped broke a tab off the rear of the sprocket???? (they are used for ignition timing)

I bought some GEMI clamps when I replaced hoses on our Outback. They are german/european style I think and has raised 'threads', not 'perforated', as well as rolled edges, slightly narrower too. not cheap though. but, someone mentioned being able to snag some from european makes at the wrecking yard...? The T-bolt clamps that came with some mishimoto silicone hoses I put on my WRX were very nice. some of those come with springs to maintain force as hose material degrades/collapses w'ever

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The Innova I have is quite old. It is fine - can't read live data but gives Freezeframe and reads CANBUS. If you want that type of scanner, get one that is highly rated at Amazon I guess, I haven't used an Autel or Launch.

I have BAFX BT adapter now that I can use with my smartphone. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I also have an old corded Innova 3100a. Innova and Autel have been popular in general. I also have a Tactrix cable that I used with RomRaider and 2 other pieces of software on my laptop when I had to kill 14 codes related to failed aircut valves on my WRX. Be aware, most car part retailers (O'Reilly's, AdvanceAuto, etc.) can scan for codes.

a lot of people get a cheap, high rated ELM327 BT adapter from amazon and use the free Torque Lite or Piston or w'ever app on their smartphones.

I did the TB service on my WRX at under 9 years and under 70K miles. belt looked OK, 2 rollers spun like 'skate wheels' and one of those, the toothed one, wobbled a little.

maybe find one like this: https://www.candirect.eu/UNEX-hose-clamp-CNS-up-to-21-mm

for many systems on the car, there are one or more sensors to monitor it and send signals to the car's computer. The computer will alter other settings or set a code for a failure depending on its programming. you might watch this;

for that and similar codes, you could have had a 'loose' gas cap after fueling or some small piece of debris on the gas cap's seal that caused the issue. If it does return, further testing will be needed. More of a concern is his confusion about the cruise and traction control functions being disabled. It is common on modern cars to have ANY DTC disable those and sometimes other functions. Some codes may even put a car into 'limp home' mode. I might consider finding another mechanic.

I've read that sometimes there's a problem at the purge valve under the hood. a nipple gets cracked or a hose is bad or w'ever. maybe a smoke test will find a leak.

do you have a code? what is the number...like...P0420 or Po440 or ? broken parts, clogged valves hoses, flooded carbon canister, cracked/loose hoses, bad solenoid wiring, bad gas cap seals.....many things can lead to an evap code. My mother-in-law's Forester had to have it's entire gas tank replaced due to stuck tank vent valve.

spring clips can be grabbed/operated from the side.

if as a habit, like Ido said. one-off or 'occasional' occurrence, ;like fergloyale said. do you have an evap code and what is it?

^^^^ excellent point about the oil pump