1 Lucky Texan

If you have never heard this system work, it occurs to me, suppose the horn chirp is silent due to a problem? maybe you HAVE been in program mode but never heard the chirp? On my 03, there's a separate horn for the remote lock system (not sure on a 99 - at some point they switched from the car's horn to a dedicated sec. horn) but, if the actual sec. horn is bad, or, some relay from the sec. system to the car's horn is bad - you wouldn't hear the chirp. maybe try to test the security horn if so equipped. Or, find a schematic for how the sec. system chirps the car's horn and find a way to check that circuitry. Could just be a bad ground wire or relay somewhere.

probably not, but even the cars101 site says 'approx' 10 times, every post I've read says success is when you are quickly but carefully doing it within 15 seconds until the horn honks - that is, don't fixate on the number 10.

you could try a chemical 'block test' or send a coolant sample to a lab for analysis. sure seems like a HG internal leak though.

I think I have read of people that just keep twisting until they hear the honk or w'ever. 12-15 times - w'ever. it's 'approx.' 10 times maybe I have the details wrong?

The suction hose at the pump end is clamped onto an elbow type of fitting. The fitting is held into the top of the pump by a bolt. There are 1 or 2 o-rings inside there(depending on model). they become stiff/less compliant with age and let air into the sytem causing whining and sometimes jerky or hard steering.

just speculation; I can only imagine a difference (and it may be slight) with clearing water so, maybe one direction and hydroplaning happens 1mph, 3mph, 8mph, ??? sooner/later than reversed? I suppose also, the tread design near any 'blocks' at the shoulder could have some difference in snow/mud? on dry pavement, I doubt anything could be noticed other than 'maybe' road noise.

any codes stored? how long since timing belt was serviced? if pulses from cam and crank sensor 'disagree' much, I think the ECU prevents the engine from running? so, maybe cam or crank sensor - or timing slipped a few teeth? look for any other electrical issues - maybe a fuse is blown?

the 2003 , if like my OBW, is a separate item and some folks have used an affordable Febest part, others have used poly bushing , some get OEM. inspect everything - the car is is 16 years old. any suspension/steering part could clunk, sometimes even brakes can. https://www.amazon.com/REAR-BUSHING-LEFT-FRONT-CONTROL/dp/B00HAQDV2Q/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Outback|66&Year=2003|2003&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive

I once saw a Suzuki Brute (?) , dunno which engine it had, 2 strke I guess cause the owner claimed you had to start the engine backwards and use 1st for reverse???? anyway, he said top speed was only about 40mph but it would climb anything. I was buying a Datsun SRL311 from him. Wish I still had it.......

yeah, maybe some help here; https://www.subaru.com/owners/subaru-mobility-assist.html

I think Subaru has a program aimed at disabled drivers so, c'freak's approach of contacting them seems like an excellent idea to me.

any chance the procedure (and even the fob) could be tried with a different car? friend or relative or mechanic have one available? 99-04 right? anyway, sounds like you have a plan.

not sure about that product specifically, but I think the idea behind the chemistry is to create a layer of iron phosphate. there's this; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter i dunno anything else, lurking for opportunity to learn.....

yeah, Impreza stuff and Legacy stuff are not always 'aligned' by year model. Impreza stayed with code alarm until 2000, legacy got alpine starting June of 98 so, I guess there could be some confusion as to system? above info based on cars101.com

you might dig around at subaruoutback.org

I just know many people complain about it being hard to get into the mode. I guess just keep trying - make sure it isn't in something like valet mode that may need to be canceled first I guess....???? maybe do a battery disconnect, reconnect, then cycle the key off-on 3 times , then start the procedure ,or ????

cheaper to get an OEM used axle, check car-part.com

the bushings can be pressed out and new ones pressed in, might need the help of a shop for that - shouldn't be too expensive, make an appointment and show up with your new parts and the arms. Some folks have the means to do the pressing themselves. some folks buy Mevotech arms to install. They have new bushings and a ball joint installed. Some of those folks feel the supplied ball joint is not great and dump it for a new OEM bj. Others just run their old joint, or run the new one until it gets bad.....

you shouldn't rule-out some other issue. Knock sensors can be bad/cracked, the ECU pulls the timing and you lose power - often with no CEL set. common on older cars. and ,seems plenty of folks have fixed their cars with cheap K sensors from ebay or w'ever.

on a 96, the rear O2 sensor is a 'nanny' for cat. converter only. The ECU doesn't use it for a:f adjustment - but, if the signal is missing/outside its range, the cel will light. Dunno if that can be deleted with ECU Flash or some other tuning trick on a 96. So, the car should run fine - slightly better I'd think since you're a few pounds lighter with less exhaust restriction.

I don't expect to get many miles off my clutch. 99% city driving. I TRY to get off the pedal within a foot of forward travel. Probably stall the car one a year or so. lol

Does the FSM mention an idle zero re-learn procedure? also, check here;

when my WRX ate 2ng gear, I was still able to limp home. does your car stall or just rev when the clutch engages? other than the possible leak (was trans oil low?) any other issues before this happened? Spare tire use or jerking when maneuvering to park, etc.?

there may be a way to check for recalls at NHTSA. TSBs are sometimes trickier to track down. there are several ways a clutch's system might fail.

maybe cracked clutch fork?