1 Lucky Texan

is that a fan connector?

what if valve guides are shifting ?

it seems counter-intuitive but is a known fact - aftermarket axles will cause that vibration you noticed. perhaps extremely worn original axles will but, typical rebuilts from a parts store definitely do. may not be cause for alarm - other than parts store axles have a poor reputation for longevity. MANY folks would run used OEM over typical rebuilts. the older ANY car is, the less important it's brand/model become and the MORE important is its prior care and present condition. if you have the time, shop very carefully - try to get a one-owner with documented, proper maintenance/repairs - have a prepurchase inspection done at a subaru-friendly shop. Indeed, finding a mechanic first can be helpful. In addition to asking about the cost of an inspection, he may know of a customer that is planning to sell. subarus are often abused as they are passed along to 2nd-3rd-4th owners. Easy to cheap-out on repairs and get confused about fluids, run with mismatched tires, etc. the 'sticky' threads at the top of these 2 forums mention some common problems; Gen2; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/ Gen3; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/ you might also consider a Forester and maybe a Crosstrek

new PCV valve can sometimes help reduce oil leaks.

did someone install an LED light? that's 'hyper flashing' needs a resistor to simulate the impedance of an incandescent bulb.

I know nothing about it but, the other day , I stumbled across some places that claim to offer carbs or carb exchange services. https://www.carburetorexchange.com/search.php https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtM5CF5w0QlS1vKEp75_LEePH42166SNfr9mzKCeIXzggnUk2GdbH-RoCFcAQAvD_BwE https://www.carbs.us/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtCEVZWqjQ-3oWvtCgAA9aaJqqtYovacfy0RHmlihPinSyCQkWEqnURoCf3kQAvD_BwE just fyi

you might consider grabbing an extra coupla bands. I discovered it's easy to break one if you've never used the tool before.......

even 2010, axles are interchangeable AFAIK. One part number for front axle.

could you get it to Portland? even if you can't call http://superiorsoobie.com/ that is General Disorder's shop - maybe call him anyway, he may be able to suggest a good shop near medford

knock sensors have been known to be bad without setting a code. Plus, many folks have had good luck with cheap sensors from ebay or wherever.

many folks upgrade springs, struts, bushings and make other mods for off-road adventures - but, they should probably consider upgrading trans or oil coolant system as well. I've seen rally car with oil coolers on the roof......

got a google map of where it went?

true - you likely will be in something like 'limp' mode. if there wasn't a recall for stuck air-cut valves, they aren't gonna do one for this. stupid air-cut valves

I'll offer some thoughts; the hydraulic pressure on the trans side of it's coil is higher than coolant pressure - is it POSSIBLE for coolant to get in the trans? yeah - but more likely for trans fluid to get in radiator. Very ,very uncommon failure from my years of reading Forums. debris,dead bugs, dried grass,etc, trapped between a/c condenser and radiator is not uncommon on older soobs. Probably MORE common when driven off-road a lot. maybe try downshifting to keep rpms up? see if that helps bring temps down. In our 03, I experienced overheating in high temps on a trip once, moderate cargo(suitcases) and 3 adults - temps 113 to 116*F (45-46*C) , temps creeped up on hills, cam back down to normal on the flats. I guess extremes just tax the cooling system - maybe some kind of supplement radiator could help? maybe a supplemental oil cooler? (that also gives you more oil volume - not a bad upgrade)

I like Len's Club idea - it basically tells someone to keep moving along and look for another target. Yeah, I know they aren't 'perfect' and they can be defeated - but, criminals are lazy - too easy to find an easier target. Anything visible from the outside keeps them from even trying a door. Maybe print-up a fake parking violation to put under the wiper - knuckle-heads might think a cop or tow truck is in the area.

clean, classic look - that will be a good car for someone.

yeah, I'm constantly amazed at how car designers/manufacturers never seem to learn anything from the past too. Like, we've been making cars for over a century and there's an entire range of year-models with oil consumption problems or bad head gaskets? crap o-rings that can't seal a system for more than 3 years?...brake lines recalled to be sprayed with some protective goo?... have we made NO advancements in alloys/materials/design/manufaturing since 1910?! I get abuse or rare defects...but folks shouldn't have to worry about catastrophic failures just driving/using a car normally. Does no one TEST their vehicles/engines anymore?

revisit recent work? maybe a nut or bolt didn't get torqued well - check lug nuts and even axle nuts?

some of the complaint does seem like a bushing on a lower control arm - but some of it seems like it could be sway bar mount or endlink related???? a 95 could have a lot of rubber parts needing help; engine mounts, trans mounts, rear diff mount bushings.....

some MAFs have been known to have poor solder connections inside.....

maybe they pressure tested the coolant system and found a spark plug wet with coolant?

I don't suppose any ducting is dislodged? make sure the cabin air filter hasn't degraded and put some debris on the coil I guess?

d @ m n hope you get it back OK

clean-out between the a/c condenser and the radiator. On some older cars, debris/dead bugs can build-up in there.

you did great troubleshooting already! maybe find a way to rent or borrow some Chassis Ears - or pay a shop equipped with them try to narrow the diagnosis for you.