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Found 9 results

  1. 2000 Forester Temp gauge hits red during light stop and go traffic or highway driving within 20 minutes, does not hit red just from idling. Temp gauge rises with coolant temp viewed on scan tool. Thermostat opens at correct temp (lower radiator hose gets hot), has new Fail-Safe thermostat. Fans turn on at 95 C. When the gauge hits red the temp is 100 C, highest temp I saw was 101 C, temp stayed between 90 C and 95 C at first but once it hit 100 C it wouldn't drop unless it sat and idled for about 10 minutes. I didn't push it too much because I didn't want to damage anything, A/C off and heater off, ambient temp 80 F. Cooling system was burped when thermostat was replaced and then a week or two later burped again and I got more air out of it. Burping procedure: with spill proof funnel on radiator, run engine until thermostat opens, let engine run and occasionally rev to about 3000 rpm until no more bubbles are seen. I waited about 15 minutes after thermostat opened each time. Head gaskets have been recently replaced. I don't trust the dash gauge, I don't think 101 C should be red-line but it does seem high, I haven't been able to find a maximum temp spec or normal operating range. I haven't worked on Subarus much and this is my first time messing with a Subaru cooling system. I haven't yet blown out the radiator fins, that's on the schedule this weekend. Is this a normal operating temp? At what what temp is engine damage likely to occur? I'm not even sure if I actually have a problem or not with a coolant temp of 101 C.
  2. 2003 Outback Limited EJ25, built for Canada in May of 2002. 165,000 miles. I cleaned and flushed the cooling system in March 2016. Then drained the block, radiator, heater core, etc. and removed the freeze plugs, all hoses, thermostat, temperature sender, etc. to dry the system out. Now ready to install new hoses and Evans coolant plus dozens of other preventative maintenance items. Was at the dealer last week and overheard someone say that it's hard on the head gaskets to let them dry out like that. Do not even think of putting it back together. Replace the head gaskets, guaranteed to have an issue with the head gaskets. I wish I had a chance to engage in the conversation. The head gaskets were replace in April, 2011 around 110,000 miles. It appears they are the Subaru brand. All other parts are Subaru. Have not found any aftermarket parts, including filters on the Outback. Is this a myth, a rumor, or a fact that I should continue deeper into the engine and replace the head gaskets? http://www.evanscoolant.com/ http://www.discountoeparts.com/genuine-subaru-parts
  3. questions: is this what I think it is, and how important is it? thanks to all who helped me with the last issues, now I found the real culprit as to where coolant was leaking. apparently the little plastic piece is called a Termocontrol valve assembly (described it to a shop and that's the answer I got). it is a little plastic elbow with some kind of valve in it, has ~13mm bolt on the end of it. not sure how one would turn the bolt, as the plastic it is threaded into is crap. it might be heat activated. the valve is connecting on both ends by 1/4"ID hose. location of this piece: from the water pump, there is a rubber elbow hose about 6" long that connects to a metal T under the air filter (not in it), and behind the alternator. the top of the T connects to heater hose that goes through the firewall. the stick part of the T has a 1"piece of what looks like 1/4"ID hose connecting to the plastic piece I described above. following that plastic elbow, the next piece of hose connects to the base of the hitachi carb. so, I am in there, now I don't exactly know where to go from here. my instinct tells me to skip it and just leave it out of the picture. my instinct also tells me I am an idiot and will probably screw something up and should as a professional. thanks again USMB
  4. I have a 1990 Loyale, 300k miles, beater but generally reliable car. Its been running hot from time to time, but yesterday was running close to the red on temp gauge. Added coolant, but noted there is a leak coming from the plastic nut located just above the drain stop cock. Pulled that leaky nut out and found the threads and washer are shot. Can anyone tell me the purpose of that aperture into the radiator? Can I just replace that or plug it with a similar nut, or do I need a specialized part? Alos note the fan is not working. How can I tell where the fan faiure lies? Fan Motor? Controll Unit? Thermostat?
  5. First, I want to say a big thank you to everyone here that takes the time to post their knowledge on this forum. It is so rare to find a forum with a useful knowledge base, but I found one here. I bought a 92 Loyale Wagon 5 spd 4WD about the end of July 2013 from a used car dealer. About 225,000 miles. Probably paid way too much for it... In any case, it was exactly what I was looking for, it just needed a little bit of work . I knew the clutch needed replacing when I test drove it, but thought to myself that shouldn't be too hard, I've replaced dozens and dozens of clutches in my former life (16 years) as a professional mechanic. Little did I know... I joined USMB the same day I brought home the Loyale and started reading everything I could find out about the clutch job. I have never done a Subaru or a 4WD clutch before, but it's just a few more pieces to remove and replace, right? Thanks to the videos that Miles Fox has posted on YouTube, I thought I was ready to go. I live in an apartment building, no place to work on a car, they frown when I lift the hood to check the oil in my wife's Suzuki. I found a gravel pit about 30 miles away out in the woods that I can use to work on the car. No power tools, no shelter, no lift, no engine hoist. This is the Pacific Northwest, where it rains every other day, and I drive the car daily to work, so my opportunities to work on the car are very limited. When I crawled under the car, the first thing I noticed was the torn axle boot on the inner drivers side, so off the wife went for a new axle ($60 from O'Reilly's, and they stock it!) I had ordered an Exedy Clutch kit from Amazon ($155 including shipping!) No way to pull the engine, so had to slide the transaxle back and down, using bungee cords to hold the driveshaft in (no oil loss). It only took about 3x longer than I had planned, and I had to leave the car overnight and return to finish the next day. While buttoning up the project I noticed coolant dripping out of the timing belt cover area. I had already given some thought to replacing the timing belt since I did not know the history, so I added a water pump to the mental shopping list, as well as the mouse o-ring for the oil pump. Over the next two weeks it became a ritual to add about a quart of coolant every day as the water pump was dripping steadily. Finally, back to the gravel pit last weekend with a new Aisin Water pump ($40 from Amazon), a new oil pump gasket ($7 from Amazon), a Cloyes Timing Belt Kit ($70, Amazon) and the upper and lower radiator hoses and the other small right-angle hose that connects to the water-pump, as well as a Subaru OEM Thermostat and radiator cap that I picked up at the Subaru dealer in Tacoma. Following Miles' video it was a snap to change the timing belts. The covers had been broken previously and wedged back into position; I threw them away as I removed them. Changed the Water Pump and hoses and the oil pump gasket (it was OK) while the radiator was out. Inspected the radiator, I've seen lots of these plastic side tanks come off, but these looked OK, and as far as I could see inside the filler neck the interior of the radiator looked good also. Everything went back together well. I (once again, a HUGE thanks to Miles!) followed Miles' video instructions on getting the air out of the cooling system. Everything went well. Headed for home, about 5-6 miles up the road, the temp gauge started to climb. Pulled over, added about a half gallon of coolant. Back on the road, about 5 miles later the gauge started to climb. Pulled over, added coolant. See the pattern yet? About 5 miles, stop, add coolant... I considered that it might be possible that I was not successful in getting the cooling system purged of air. The next day, after work, while still parked at work, I removed the thermostat. I filled the radiator until the block was full up to the thermostat housing (a little trick I figured out back in the early 80's for those new-fangled front wheel drive cars with low radiators), inserted the thermostat, buttoned up, and once again followed the video procedure for purging the system. After it was purged, I sat and idled for about 20 minutes, no drips, no visible coolant, system has pressure on it. Started towards home. About 5 miles later, the temp gauge again started to climb... While washing my greasy, oily clothes at the local laundromat, I parked out back and removed the Subaru OEM Thermostat and closed up the engine, filled the system, good coolant flow all the time of course. Now, the temp gauge barely nudges off the bottom line, until suddenly, at about 5 miles, it starts to climb up. Again, I stop, add about a half gallon of coolant, drive 5 miles, add half a gallon, drive 5 miles, add half a gallon... I don't think I have actually overheated it yet, the highest the gauge has gone is about 3/4 to the red line (Used to run at about 1/4). I'm no longer leaving an antifreeze puddle on the ground when parked. I don't know where the coolant is going. Heater works great, no discernible leakage in the interior. No clouds of smoke from the tailpipe of any sort. When I stop to add coolant, there might be a little whiff of coolant on the top of the engine, near the throttle body, but it vanishes so quickly when I open the hood that I'm not sure yet. Does anyone have any idea what I am not seeing here? It's been 20+ years since the last time I worked on a Subaru, I'm not familiar with their quirks and special needs. What am I missing?
  6. Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg
  7. Bought a 90 legacy & discovered it had an overheating issue. Aftermarket temperature gauge (came with vehicle) reading 210 as operating temperature, but would drop to 170-190 at 50-60 mph. Trouble shoot fans, both fan motors are dead. Replaced both fans. No change in temp. Curiously, the both fans run all the time, even at cold start up. Trouble shoot coolant, coolant is ok. Trouble shoot thermostat, get OEM aftermarket brand supposedly designed to keep temp at 170. Drained coolant and installed new thermostat, fillled with fresh coolant (but did not start at engine block..'burped' ...just filled into radiator) and temp now runs at 200. Will attempt to burp system today. Is a fun car, but the cooling thing is really strange. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  8. Where could I Find a Cooler temp Thermoswitch for my EA82 BumbleBeast? The Stock EA82 one is designed to start the electric Fan at 203º F while the EA82 Turbo one is Designed to Kick on at 200º F. I am Looking for something even Cooler to swap there, Because I am Removing the Fixed Pulley Driven Fan and installing another Electric fan instead, as you can read ~► Here. So, does anybody know of a Cooler thermoswitch and its part Number or Make/model of the car? Kind Regards.
  9. Hi all! Recently my BumbleBeast developed a Weird noise, a Rattle Sound that was only noticeable at idle; So I checked it and I originally thought that it had Worn A/C Compressor's Ball Bearings... (as you can read ~► Here ) ...but the A/C kept working fine. So, I was about to install my Brand New SJR Lift kit for the front only... (as you can see ~► Here ) ...and I decided to Remove the Weberized EA82 engine from my BumbleBeast to check it carefully and make the lift install easier, also, I got Rid of the Timing Belts' Covers at all... (as you can Read ~► Here ) ...Because I thought that the Weird Noise source could be a Worn Timing Belt Tensioner's Ball Bearing. Then with the Engine out, I Discovered that the Source of the Weird noise was the Main Fan, the one attached to the Water Pump's Pulley, also known as "Mechanical" fan; so my BumbleBeast's A/C compressor is fine. A Little bit of Background History: The Fan clutch it had, failed around year 1993, so I decided to Fix the Fan by Drillin' a 1/4" Hole thru the Fan clutch and insert a 1/4" Twisted wire into that hole and Welded the wire to the Fan's Base. It worked good since then... but now, several years later; the Hole I Drilled on the Fan Clutch's area, became Wider and the Welded wire is Loose, also the Fan is Loose, so that thing is Ruined... I Need to obtain a New Fan for that, I'll Like to Keep the original fan setup, but here comes the Question: is there any Fan that fits the Pulley on my EA82 that comes without Fan Clutch? I Really need one, ASAP... Kind Regards.
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