December 22, 201213 yr Man that is weird. I can only suspect that being an intended road going 4wd having either the front or rear wheels moving at a slightly different speed may improve the handling of the vehicle. Agreed. Some kind of dynamic of tire slip in climbing, cornering, etc. & these ratios being a happy medium. Without a biased center diff its a compromise, but a good one.
December 22, 201213 yr Man that is weird. I can only suspect that being an intended road going 4wd having either the front or rear wheels moving at a slightly different speed may improve the handling of the vehicle. Well, doing the math for the turbo 3AT I get this, Front final drive is 3.454545....... Rear final drive+transfer reduction= 3.4533333..... So it seems it would actually give the rear and a veryslightly taller gear, so pressumably a bit of rear bias to the power split. And it seems that this setup was used at least until '86, Just looked in the FSM. 3ATs also have a reduction gear beforeeither the front diff and transfer gears. Either .974, .933, and 1.026 For turbo/non and 2wd/4wd etc.....too much to list all that. Now let's get back to the 4sdp. In question. All I can find in my books say the 4spds use 1:1 transfer. SO........ Front diff=3.8888... (35/9) Rear diff= 3.9 (39/10) In this case, the rear is slightly lowerratio.....so a tiny bit of front bias. Sorry for the hijack. I forgot what this thread was about. SubaFreaks Super Bad MTF Monster Sedan. Can't wait for MOAR PICS!!! Edited December 22, 201213 yr by Gloyale
December 23, 201213 yr Author Oh yeah. Nothing crazy yet. Just finished the last of the rot repair. Just gotta seal it up and wait for my body filler to come in so I can make it all pretty.
December 24, 201213 yr Author Didnt get to work on it nearly as much as I had hoped this weekend. Just changed the really bad front wheel bearing and got the fenders cut out. Damn holidays mess everything up!
December 25, 201213 yr Author Lol. Thanks. So I figured I'd start cutting out the front wheel wells and along the way I found this. Yup. Could have done without that. Guess I'm not done with rot repair after all.
February 10, 201313 yr Author Yay I can finally post again! I was locked out of the forum for awile. Now let's see, where was I? Well I got the frame rot fixed and built the new wheel well for the left front.
February 10, 201313 yr Author I also got the t-case mount all set. The e-brake all hooked up. Had to tie the two single e-brake cables together. A simple cable clamp worked pretty good. I got a bunch of other stuff done. Just havnet taken the pics yet since I had no one to share them with. Lol.
February 28, 201313 yr Author Been a busy month, but started mocking up the skid plates the other night. Figured I'd get the shapes and holes sorted out with wood first since I'd rather not mess up with the 1/4" aluminum plate. Lol. Also a shot of my big brakes and pretty spindles. And still not 4wd. Lol.
February 28, 201313 yr Subafreak - I've been following this build since you started it, and I like the idea of doing the strut extentions on the bottom of the tube. I dont need to go as extreme of length as you do, but ideally I'd like to get rid of the spacers on top of my struts and get the length at the bottom like you did. Would it be possible to take flat stock that fits in between the strut to spindle mounting point and just extend it there? Basically it'd be a 7 inch piece of flat stock with 4 holes drilled in it. so it'd bolt to the bottom of the OEM strut and then the extention would be between the spindle and the strut? I see that you offset yours but I'm assuming thats to keep the camber in check with the 35"s you are running? Send me a PM if you get a chance I'd like to pick your brain a little bit
March 1, 201313 yr Subafreak - I've been following this build since you started it, and I like the idea of doing the strut extentions on the bottom of the tube. I dont need to go as extreme of length as you do, but ideally I'd like to get rid of the spacers on top of my struts and get the length at the bottom like you did. Would it be possible to take flat stock that fits in between the strut to spindle mounting point and just extend it there? Basically it'd be a 7 inch piece of flat stock with 4 holes drilled in it. so it'd bolt to the bottom of the OEM strut and then the extention would be between the spindle and the strut? I see that you offset yours but I'm assuming thats to keep the camber in check with the 35"s you are running? Send me a PM if you get a chance I'd like to pick your brain a little bit Have a peek here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/104872-bg-on-31s/ They didn't do quite as much lift as you're talking, but same idea. They had to run 1.5" wheel spacers, as the struts no longer tuck inside the wheel, but that's about it. Great way to do it. My brat is lifted with the same principle, just re-engineered for the EA suspension design.
March 2, 201313 yr Thats basically what I want to do but taller, I like how your diff hanger sits a lot more tucked in than mine, I've already destroyed that part of the lift. still driving it that way, but its all getting cut off and put back in its original location and then I'll build my own diff hanger. I think that hanging down so low has been 90% of my issue in deep hard park snow. I have 2 of the 1.5" spacers here, but I was contemplating getting adapters to SVX hubs, I like the ball joint a lot more than the legacy one, seems a hell of a lot stronger, and then I get better braking too. Nice lookin ride you made, you still have it?
March 11, 201313 yr Author Well you should know the bolt spacing for the struts is SVX specific and then obviously there is the ball joints........and the hole for the tie rod end is also bigger. Oh and the ball joints are alot beefier.......impossible to find new, but yes stronger. On second thought you might be better off with some STi hubs. Lol.
March 11, 201313 yr Author And yes I still have it and no it's still not done. I've been slacking again.
April 14, 201312 yr Author Well I haven't really done anything to this in awile, but last week I was slamming it together to get it to a car show today. About the only new thing is I got the skid plates bolted on......semi bolted on. Lol. And to certify it as a current trailer queen...... Ironic since it's still only RWD. Lol.
April 14, 201312 yr Well I haven't really done anything to this in awile, but last week I was slamming it together to get it to a car show today. About the only new thing is I got the skid plates bolted on......semi bolted on. Lol. And to certify it as a current trailer queen...... Ironic since it's still only RWD. Lol. It looks great!
April 15, 201312 yr This thread is making me feel like my hatch is inadequate with its 31"s...But on the other hand I seemed to have cured most of my breakage issues,not really sure if i want to go bigger.totally jealous of the ground clearance.
April 15, 201312 yr looks good. oh and the svx balljoint - still available thru the dealer.. 100 bucks a piece now thou. I just replaced em on mine.
April 21, 201312 yr Author Well got it through emissions yesterday so now I can get real plates. Then work on getting the rest if it done. It's just gonna take money is all. Lol.
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