I would think your break pads are worn un evenly from left side vs right side... maybe?

 

I wouldn't doubt it, I had little peddle while driving this thing home, So I'm sure the pads need to be serviced (Gonna use some Ceramic pads as always)

 

Gonna need to brake lines, and I'm sure they'll break off in the wheel cylinders, so I'll need two new of those.

you probably got a stuck caliper. Either piston froze up or slider stuck.

 

Rust.

you probably got a stuck caliper. Either piston froze up or slider stuck.

 

Rust.

 

Again, I wouldn't doubt it Haha!

 

Maybe I should get EA82 rear Disc brakes! Are EA82 Front brakes larger? If so, would they swap onto this? Rotors look the same (Bolt wise)

Spot welds are key so I've learned.

 

Yes they are. You don't want to get the metal too hot warping isn't so much an issue on the floor as on body panels because you wont see it, or have to fill it after. But the hotter it get's the easier it burns through, and you want to avoid making more holes. But it does look very fixable. The rust that scares me the most is on the bottom of the doors. I sandblasted mine. I think that was the best way of getting it out of there we will see how it holds up over time.

Again, I wouldn't doubt it Haha!

 

Maybe I should get EA82 rear Disc brakes! Are EA82 Front brakes larger? If so, would they swap onto this? Rotors look the same (Bolt wise)

 

I forget why, but i tried to put the bent 8 spoke (ones you have on your car) they wouldn't work on the front of my gl10. pretty sure the wheel wouldn't clear the calipers...?

Yeah the rust on the door is always an issue, thankfully, this is only surface rust (For now) and I can probably eradicate that pretty easy, its not soft and rotted, I will have to wire wheel the door or something, possible sand blast if I can find a place (I think Jboy knows a dude with a sand blaster) I will also have to remove the door panel and get inside, check things out, seal it up ect.

 

I need to remove all the Door panels anyway and lube the window tracks (Slow motors, might need to grease the motors too)

 

As for the Wagon wheels not fitting on a Loyale, they "Should" clear the brakes on any EA82, as these wheels were also used on the EA82 GLs. a 13" rim, is a 13" rim, or so I thought? Maybe I'll have to check this out on my Loyale.

 

Ea81 wagon wheels do not fit on an ea82. The ea82's have a different style wagon wheel.

 

 

Huh, indeed they are, did not know that (Even after I live on the 4x140 wheels page) lol

Woah yeah, I cleaned all the carpeting and Seats with Commercial brand Pre-spotter/Cleaner. The pile is really plush for 30 y.o carpet, deep rich color. Awesome!

For pulling the brake and fuel lines for replacement, it's not to bad of a job, but it does help if the dash is out. Heater blower casing does need to come out though.

 

There's couplers on both ends of the brake lines.

On the rear, just after they exit from the inside of the body.

On the firewall for the front ends of the rear lines.

PS one is roughly above where the A/C lines enter.

DS one is just to the right of the M/C as you look at it

 

I use the pre-made lengths of line, various lengths and new couplers. You won't be able to match length exactly, but you can get close with not to much 'extra line'.

If you don't bend the lines up to bad during removal, you can use them for a template for bending the new ones.

 

I'm not a fan of having splices in the fuel lines running thru the vehicle, so I buy a coil of needed line size to make the full run.

 

In the pic of the lines, 3 are for fuel. Supply, return, vent. The line that takes off by itself is DS rear brake.

 

Allways use a Double-Flare when doing brake lines.

Single-Flare doesn't hold up to repeated hard brake applications. It can work it's way out of the fitting.

 

I believe I still have the part numbers here for the flex lines, both front and rear. Will post back with them if I find them.

Edited March 4, 201214 yr by TomRhere
corrected location of brake line coupler

Tom, sounds good. Thank you for the breakdown of the lines.

 

I have figured out why I kept getting the wrong rotor, The rotor I kept getting is for the Nippon Disty, while mine is Hitachi.

Tom, sounds good. Thank you for the breakdown of the lines.

 

I have figured out why I kept getting the wrong rotor, The rotor I kept getting is for the Nippon Disty, while mine is Hitachi.

 

All I can say is be prepared for wrong parts ALL the time on this.

So far, how many wrong parts have you got: keep a list, it will be every other part.

All I can say is be prepared for wrong parts ALL the time on this.

So far, how many wrong parts have you got: keep a list, it will be every other part.

 

Haha! I will do.

Wes; the guy who I am getting the rockers from, cut them out, and will get me a Shipping quote from FedEx in a few days.

 

He sent me some pictures are to what he cut out, I think this will work just perfect! A Big thanks to dude for cutting them out cleanly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's going to be sweet.

Finished Cleaning my Interior tonight, and conditioned it with Mothers Protectant (Best interior protectant I've ever used) I still need to remove the upper half of the rear seat.

 

I also have Mothers Back-to-Black to restore color to faded parts, bumper, moldings, interior bits if any.

 

 

1st row carpet

 

2nd row carpet

 

Cargo carpet

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 5, 201214 yr by TheLoyale

 

 

Choice cuts Looks like he knew what he was doing.

 

That interior is way clean. I wish mine would clean up that well. Mine is trashed.

Tom does such a friggin good job on cleaning interiors i think it could be his side business. Serously the man is maticulous when it comes to that.

I dunno, Ben - the cargo carpet looks like it could use a little more work. i see brownish spots... (just teasing Tom - lookin real good. the seats look fantastic!)

 

+ 10 on What TomR said about the metal lines.

 

get a good flaring kit for making the double flares (about $30 for a good one), and a bending tool so you dont crimp the lines. make a few practice flares on an old piece of line just to get the hang of it before working on actual replacements. its not hard, just fiddly.

make sure you have plenty of the appropriate size connectors as well, you can always return if you dont use them.

damn, nice deal on those rocker sections!

I agree on the cargo carpet, I'm gonna use a passport machine I have at work to redo it.

I agree on the cargo carpet, I'm gonna use a passport machine I have at work to redo it.

 

Consider yourself lucky. Both of mine have been trashed beyond using (missing chunks). In my 82 I cut up a legacy rubber cargo mat to fit (works great if you want to protect it as well!) and the 84 is getting wood floors because of it My carpets looked in similar shape to the cargo mat, I ran them through the wash, and then dyed them and they came out awesome.

 

Interior looks awesome. I love those seats. I wish the fwd had come with them, also super jealous of the high rise center console. Keep up the good work I like seeing progress on this

Those rocker sections are going to be life savers, he did a great job giving you plenty to work with. Time to start practice welding on scrap before you weld on your car.

 

As for the lines, next time I see you I'll lend you my flaring tool. Did all of the stainless lines in the '56 Imperial with it and not a single leak in that system. It's okay to splice into a good line so long as good flares made. If you're going to hold onto this car for a long time, you may consider using stainless or other nickel-copper alloy lines. Not that much more expensive that steel lines and you'll never have to worry about it again.

Jon, we have Flaring tools and Benders. I have everything I need.

Thank to Tom for the PCV pipe.