I have contacted as many as 4 places online and each have discontinued this item rear wheel bearing special tool including Cornwell tools.

 

Would anyone be willing to sell theirs or know a place where I can purchase this tool? I am needing to change my rear wheel bearings on my 84' Subaru GL.

 

It seems like this is impossible to find anymore and I am wondering if anyone else is having this same problem?

 

I have tried using a pin punch to loosen the locknut on the rear hub assembly, but it is not budging.

 

Any help would be appreciated,

 

Bryan

three six 0. 224.7009

 

http://www.etoolcart.com/subarupinwrenchsocketsu-022.aspx

http://www.handsontools.com/Subaru-Tools_c_57.html

 

https://subaru.spx.com/DisplayByCategory.aspx?id=9

 

 

Just sites...but you may have luck using a 4 wheel drive hub tool for trucks...idk what size the tool in the pic is, but i used one of these to change the diff seals on the tranny in a 99 impreza

Shawn listed this which may be easier to find:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136521

 

I have one for Subaru's but doubt it's worth enough for me to mess with boxing and selling it, but you could make an offer. I've used it for two removals and zero installs.

http://www.handsontools.com/Subaru-Tools_c_57.html

 

https://subaru.spx.com/DisplayByCategory.aspx?id=9

 

 

Just sites...but you may have luck using a 4 wheel drive hub tool for trucks...idk what size the tool in the pic is, but i used one of these to change the diff seals on the tranny in a 99 impreza

 

Both of those websites didn't look to be the tools with the 4 offset pins on the socket like the picture in this link. http://www.etoolcart.com/subarupinwrenchsocketsu-022.aspx

 

I have tried to use another socket from OReillys for removal of rear wheel bearings on Jeeps and pick up trucks, but it didn't fit even by cutting two of the pins.

 

Thanks for your help.

Shawn listed this which may be easier to find:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136521

 

I have one for Subaru's but doubt it's worth enough for me to mess with boxing and selling it, but you could make an offer. I've used it for two removals and zero installs.

 

Thanks for Shawn's post. I will see how much it cost and may go that option.

 

I am willing to buy yours off you for $50-60 if I cannot find any options in the next two days.

Buy a cheapy-cheap socket with the same OD as the nut. Cut down 1/4" from the rim the excess material leaving just the 4 "pegs" using your nut as a pattern. Grinder with cutting wheel works great. Made one like that and used it for years and years. I'd give it to you but I haven't seen it for a loooong time.

i made my own by machineing a pipe wleding a socket inside it with a rear axle output wleded to the pipe so i can titen the tool up into the hub so it dosent slip out works realy good and cost under 50 $

snap-on might have something

You don't even need one - just use a drift punch to remove/install the nut. It's not that critical that you have this tool. And how many bearings are you going to realistically use it for? I've owned one for 5+ years and I've probably used it less than a dozen times. I own a Subaru shop.... see what I mean?

 

Those rear bearings have a very low failure rate.

 

GD

You don't even need one - just use a drift punch to remove/install the nut. It's not that critical that you have this tool. And how many bearings are you going to realistically use it for? I've owned one for 5+ years and I've probably used it less than a dozen times. I own a Subaru shop.... see what I mean?

 

Those rear bearings have a very low failure rate.

 

GD

 

GD, while I'm sure that's completely true up there in rust free land, (you lucky dogs) where I grew up in the "salt belt", I ran into some hard cases that were essentially one piece and a punch would just carve out hunks of metal and distort things till it was swing arm time! Harbor freight/Northern tool will have a socket for less than 20 bucks and it will only take 20 minutes at most with a cutoff wheel to make the perfect tool that you can put the BIG impact on and let it eat!

Well I tried again with a punch and it wouldn't budge. I'm soaking it tonight with PB blaster penetrate and heat it up tomorrow and see if it will budge.

 

Thanks for the help and advice.

GD, while I'm sure that's completely true up there in rust free land, (you lucky dogs) where I grew up in the "salt belt", I ran into some hard cases that were essentially one piece and a punch would just carve out hunks of metal and distort things till it was swing arm time! Harbor freight/Northern tool will have a socket for less than 20 bucks and it will only take 20 minutes at most with a cutoff wheel to make the perfect tool that you can put the BIG impact on and let it eat!

 

Agreed. I've done it both ways.....and I'll never do it with a punch again. Even the ones that aren't rusted solid, it's so much easier to just slap the pin socket on an impact and buzz it out.

Well the OP is here on the west coast and rust shouldn't be an issue. I've never had a problem with either method - I own the pin socket and if it wasn't handy I wouldn't hesitate to pull out a punch and get the job done.

 

Typically I find that when people try to do anything with a punch or chisel they lack the requisite hammer for the job. You need a VERY heavy hammer. I use a 4 lb drilling hammer for that kind of work. If you need to move metal you need weight.

 

GD

I made my own. Works a treat - nothing like having the right tool for the job!

 

 

 

 

 

Took a bit of work to get it right but it's an essential piece of kit these days!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

I just watched Wheeler Dealers make something very similar on a Renault Alpine project they did.

Well after soaking the bearing with PB blaster and heating it up this morning and failing with a pin punch and a large hammer, we decided it was time to wait no longer and fabricate the tool.

 

It worked perfectly and tomorrow I will get the bearing race pressed out since it will require more force. Or I may end up buying a press.

 

I'm willing to let anyone borrow this tool in the country with a deposit to my paypal if you are in desperate need.

 

So tomorrow bearings should be all done! Finally!

 

Thanks for all the suggestion guys!

 

Bryan

 

You don't need a press - just a 50mm tow ball and a BFH does the job. It will move.

 

To replace the new casing use the old one to hammer the new one in. This trick won't damage the new casing as you'll have a flat edge against it that's not taking the brunt of the blow from the hammer

 

Works a treat for me - I've only had to take EJ bearings to a press.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

simalar but i added a axle shaft to center of mine so i can titen up the tool into the berring thiss is nesacary to get enuff torque on the nut. I get some realy rusty ones that are very hard to get apart. I have used the crap out of thiss tool over 200 times and still holding up will try and get a pic for u guys

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I have one of these in my toolbox I could have sent you (or you could have driven down and gotten).

 

Nice work on your own version!

No worries Tex. I should have called. Not sure what I was thinking.

 

I used the 50mm tow ball as Bennie mentioned and it worked marvelous! No need for a press:)

 

On my 2nd axle installing the inboard seal, it clipped on the axle and now I will have to buy a new seal tomorrow at Napa and try it again. I read to be careful, but it is so easy for the edge to catch and damage the seal. Heck I may by 2 more in case.

 

I'm also in process of installing a intake snorkel system. I'm having quite difficulty with fitment, but it is coming slowly. I will have to relocate the vent fitting on the intake ducting just prior to intake manifold that goes to the idle control vale and also one of the vents for the engine crank case and valve covers.

 

Tomorrow bearings should be done IF NOTHING unusual happens.