mjqtown Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Hey Guys, This forum has been helpful with all the old Subaru info. I have a few questions regarding EA82T's. I'm basicly looking at doing 3x conversions. Non turbo engine replaced with a EA82T Manual conversion (Current gearbox is 3 Speed FWD) 4WD conversion with the gearbox Currently my car has the following 1988 GTX 3rd Gen Leone, facelift. EA82 with Hatachi Carb 3Speed FWD Auto This is what i'm working with. My car in it's current state: IMG_9722-2 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_9493 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_9414 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_3657 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr And this is the car that has the complete EA82T engine and driveline. It's a Manual 4WD model with an rear LSD. Please excuse the bad photos. IMG_20160709_160045 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160107 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160119 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160323 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160415 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr Here's what I already know I will need to do. Convert the fuel system to run injection. Create a custom loom as I will not be using the factory ECU. I'm thinking of running a Link ECU Cooling system will need looked at Sub frame for gearbox and rear diff will need to be swapped Strip down the EA82T and redo head gaskets etc Gearbox will most likely need rebuilt. Things i'm not sure about. Is the drive shaft the same length between wagon and sedan? I know its the same between BC and BF. The only thing will be auto VS manual length, Is there anything unusual that goes on with putting a rear diff and sub frame in the rear? I know I will probably have to change hubs etc. There will also be some neutral and park switch to allow the car to start as well. Might need some insight on this. Is there any difference between the turbo and non turbo radiators? Mine just has the electric fan, i'm missing the viscous fan. I don't have A/C but should get the fan. The loom will be a fun one, not sure how much goes into that on the old EA's. EJ's can be a mess. That's about all I can think of. Just wonder what everyone's thoughts are on the conversion and questions etc. I know these EA82T's aren't great but here in New Zealand they are hard to find. Plus I would love to kit this little car out. I've already replaced the engine in this as the first blew the head gasket (Blocked Rad and heater core). Cheers Mitch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) You will need the engine crossmember from the EA82T car too. The exhaust up-pipe to the turbo won't fit without it. Edited August 21, 2016 by Crazyeights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjqtown Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 You will need the engine crossmember from the EA82T car too. The exhaust up-pipe to the turbo won't fit without it. Ah yes, good point. Lucky for me that whole car is just sitting there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 You need the entire rear suspension and trailing arms. You need to fab a center bearing mount for the driveshaft, if it is the same as a wagon. You need the whole front wiring harness, probably the dash harness also. Might as well take the instrument cluster also. The turbo radiators were 2 rows of tubes, rated for higher heat transfer. I'd get the whole car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 My suggestion. I used a 85 JDM EA82T 3 spd auto sedan halfcut to put into a touring wagon. I swapped to manual. Completely strip the wiring loom from both cars. Unfortunately, the loom is one piece all the way through the cars, it doesn't unplug into separate pieces like later models The only difference between the sedan wiring & the wagon is for the rear lights & rear speakers (in the doors in the wagon). The wagon splits in front of the rear seat & runs up each side, the sedan runs up the right side & around the back. Personally, I'd just run the loom in the sedan like the wagon & just change the plugs at the end (the wagon has a little extra length cos it's longer. But then you'll have to figure something for the boot light. Other option is to cut the looms at the back & resolder. Should be about 10 wires. All the L series share the same wheelbase, so swap all of the running gear (including the complete rear suspension) directly from the wagon into the sedan. Hassle will be if your sedan is FWD. It won't have the tailshaft centre bearing bracket welded into the tunnel. Again, cut this part out of the floor of the wagon & weld into the sedan. I've been told that the diff hanger captive nuts may not be in the FWD sedan chassis. Have a look underneath to check. As an aside, can you tell me if the headlight washer pump on the wagon works. Looks like you can't swap that cos the wagon's bumper is stuffed. Mine's failed & can't seem to get replacement from Subaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjqtown Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 You need the entire rear suspension and trailing arms. You need to fab a center bearing mount for the driveshaft, if it is the same as a wagon. You need the whole front wiring harness, probably the dash harness also. Might as well take the instrument cluster also. The turbo radiators were 2 rows of tubes, rated for higher heat transfer. I'd get the whole car. Yea I'm thinking that. Lucky for me it's not going anywhere. So I can take anything off it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 The amount of modifications being described seem like opening the door to huge problems. You seem to have a really decent car. Wouldn't be simpler to just buy a decent turbo and restore it to primo condition, then sell the unit you have ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Dee2, you want to fly down to the southern hemisphere and find these "decent" turbos to buy? I'm doing a similar thing to mjqtown by converting my carby 88 touring wagon into a turbo 4spd auto version using a poor condition JDM import. Firstly, because these cars are hard to find, and secondly, our options list was a lot shorter than that available in the US. Sometimes, doing this kind of work is the only route we can take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjqtown Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 The amount of modifications being described seem like opening the door to huge problems. You seem to have a really decent car. Wouldn't be simpler to just buy a decent turbo and restore it to primo condition, then sell the unit you have ? I thought about doing this but I can't seem to find any. There was a wagon on our version of Ebay (TradeMe) but none seem to have the same features. We have very few with Digital Dash, Electric Windows and Trip Computer. Sedans are hard to find as well with the boot spooler (Optional). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I would not use that dash harness unless you really want the digi-dash. Even then I'd try making it work in the wrecked car before bothering to strip out the dash. With the windshield out and the dash that bleached from weather exposure I'd expect a lot of corrosion on all the connectors in the dash. If you're running an aftermarket ECU, just chop off the body side of the engine harness connector and splice direct to that. Use your body wiring to run all the lights and alternator and run a couple extra wires to power the ECU. You can jumper the starter neutral interlock at the plug to the a/t shifter. Clutch switch is up to you, it's a safety feature but not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) digi dash? I don't see any mention of a digi dash. Not all of these Jap wagons had that. will need to be clarified. But Woodswagon is prob right about the connectors & how to do the aftermarket wiring for the engine. You understand that you'll need to pull apart a lot of the interior. The fuel lines run inside the car down the LHS. So dashboard, rear seat, left seat, carpet. You only need to change 1 of the fuel lines (the carb return line up the top of the firewall gets replaced with a much larger version to become the EFI feed line, the carb feed line becomes the return line), but as they're bundled together, can be easier just to do the lot. Change the fuel tank also as it has the larger lines, plus a swirl pot built in to stop the EFI fuel pump from starving. FYI, the EFI ECU is bolted under the steering column. Your carb version won't have the brackets, so take that out of the wagon also (you can swap the moving/spinning bits if they've rusted in the wagon) Something you haven't mentioned is which manual gearbox is in the wagon. single range (doubt it will be part time 4wd being a series 2) with diff lock, dual range, dual range with diff lock. You'll need to relocate the reverse wires from the shifter to the gearbox. Extend the wires up through the grommet at the top rear of the engine bay on the drivers side & down to the gearbox. I'd take that part of the wiring loom out of the wagon (ie from the gearbox upto that grommet & inside the car) & splice it into yours. If you want the diff lock/lo range lights to work on your dash, you'll need to add those wires in. Bridge the large Black/white & Black/yellow wires on the auto shifter to cancel the auto safety start. Can extend these to a clutch switch if you want, or add your own "kill switch" The wagon will also have rear discs being a turbo. I can't remember if the bias valve (under the rear floor) is different or not. I remember being able to lock the rear discs when I put them on my 85 sedan, but I didn't change that bias valve Edited August 24, 2016 by wagonist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjqtown Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 I would not use that dash harness unless you really want the digi-dash. Even then I'd try making it work in the wrecked car before bothering to strip out the dash. With the windshield out and the dash that bleached from weather exposure I'd expect a lot of corrosion on all the connectors in the dash. If you're running an aftermarket ECU, just chop off the body side of the engine harness connector and splice direct to that. Use your body wiring to run all the lights and alternator and run a couple extra wires to power the ECU. You can jumper the starter neutral interlock at the plug to the a/t shifter. Clutch switch is up to you, it's a safety feature but not necessary. Yea everything that's not under the bonnet is rubbish. I was thinking of keeping my current harness and just making one for the ECU etc. Trying to keep it as simple as possible (we will see hahahah). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 If you're going to junk the wagon harness, you could try to separate out the EFI harness. I did it with my Series 1, but it was taped separately inside the tubing. Most of the wires come out the RHD and into the cabin. Except the wires for the distributor, tacho feed wire, power wire in the fusible link box (runs around the front of the car), and the fuel pump (down the RHS to under the rear seat). Although most aftermarket, non plug & play ECUs come with some wiring harness anyway. If you keep your existing loom, you'll need to patch in the oil pressure & water temp wires from the engine. You going to add the aircon from the wagon into yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Post updates etc as we're all interested in progress / success etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Even if the exposed harness is unusable due to weather, it may be helpful for tracing, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjqtown Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Post updates etc as we're all interested in progress / success etc Hahaha, I haven't started yet! I'm just doing some background work as I still have my BG to fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjqtown Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 If you're going to junk the wagon harness, you could try to separate out the EFI harness. I did it with my Series 1, but it was taped separately inside the tubing. Most of the wires come out the RHD and into the cabin. Except the wires for the distributor, tacho feed wire, power wire in the fusible link box (runs around the front of the car), and the fuel pump (down the RHS to under the rear seat). Although most aftermarket, non plug & play ECUs come with some wiring harness anyway. If you keep your existing loom, you'll need to patch in the oil pressure & water temp wires from the engine. You going to add the aircon from the wagon into yours? Yea I was thinking about the wiring. I would like to try and keep it as simple as possible. Not sure if i'm putting AC in the car. I kind of like how little these things weigh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masai Posted October 24, 2023 Share Posted October 24, 2023 On 8/21/2016 at 10:20 AM, mjqtown said: Hey Guys, This forum has been helpful with all the old Subaru info. I have a few questions regarding EA82T's. I'm basicly looking at doing 3x conversions. Non turbo engine replaced with a EA82T Manual conversion (Current gearbox is 3 Speed FWD) 4WD conversion with the gearbox Currently my car has the following 1988 GTX 3rd Gen Leone, facelift. EA82 with Hatachi Carb 3Speed FWD Auto This is what i'm working with. My car in it's current state: IMG_9722-2 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_9493 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_9414 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_3657 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr And this is the car that has the complete EA82T engine and driveline. It's a Manual 4WD model with an rear LSD. Please excuse the bad photos. IMG_20160709_160045 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160107 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160119 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160323 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr IMG_20160709_160415 by Mitchell Lindsay, on Flickr Here's what I already know I will need to do. Convert the fuel system to run injection. Create a custom loom as I will not be using the factory ECU. I'm thinking of running a Link ECU Cooling system will need looked at Sub frame for gearbox and rear diff will need to be swapped Strip down the EA82T and redo head gaskets etc Gearbox will most likely need rebuilt. Things i'm not sure about. Is the drive shaft the same length between wagon and sedan? I know its the same between BC and BF. The only thing will be auto VS manual length, Is there anything unusual that goes on with putting a rear diff and sub frame in the rear? I know I will probably have to change hubs etc. There will also be some neutral and park switch to allow the car to start as well. Might need some insight on this. Is there any difference between the turbo and non turbo radiators? Mine just has the electric fan, i'm missing the viscous fan. I don't have A/C but should get the fan. The loom will be a fun one, not sure how much goes into that on the old EA's. EJ's can be a mess. That's about all I can think of. Just wonder what everyone's thoughts are on the conversion and questions etc. I know these EA82T's aren't great but here in New Zealand they are hard to find. Plus I would love to kit this little car out. I've already replaced the engine in this as the first blew the head gasket (Blocked Rad and heater core). Cheers Mitch how would one buy it for parts, I mean the ea82t one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 24, 2023 Share Posted October 24, 2023 Well this one is probably long gone since the thread is over 7 years old! These days there’s loads more info and ease in converting these L series to NA EJ or go all out with a turbo EJ conversion. If you’re really keen on the old unreliable EA82 turbo you’d need to search high and low for a complete vehicle, or go about collecting the parts to make it happen. The EJ22 is about the same as the EA82t peak power without the complexity and added unreliability of the turbo on the EA82. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 18 hours ago, el_freddo said: Well this one is probably long gone since the thread is over 7 years old! These days there’s loads more info and ease in converting these L series to NA EJ or go all out with a turbo EJ conversion. If you’re really keen on the old unreliable EA82 turbo you’d need to search high and low for a complete vehicle, or go about collecting the parts to make it happen. The EJ22 is about the same as the EA82t peak power without the complexity and added unreliability of the turbo on the EA82. Cheers Bennie I Agree completely. As time passed by, the EJ conversion is the most reliable & cheap way to go, if you want / need to swap engines... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 On 8/21/2016 at 1:20 AM, mjqtown said: ... ... somehow makes me Sad to see cars abandoned in such way to the elements... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newmexguy Posted November 1, 2023 Share Posted November 1, 2023 Guessing that one was rolled. Moss in front seat Likely weather there, is more like northern Japan, or the pacific northwest. No moss grows here in the desert! Doubt you'd find any in the outback either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 On 10/24/2023 at 10:11 PM, el_freddo said: Well this one is probably long gone since the thread is over 7 years old! These days there’s loads more info and ease in converting these L series to NA EJ or go all out with a turbo EJ conversion. If you’re really keen on the old unreliable EA82 turbo you’d need to search high and low for a complete vehicle, or go about collecting the parts to make it happen. The EJ22 is about the same as the EA82t peak power without the complexity and added unreliability of the turbo on the EA82. Cheers Bennie just waiting for a bite aren't you ? Bagging the poor old EA82 variants.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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