Craigar Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 (edited) Looks like a something got mashed into, or wrapped around the oil pump timing belt sprocket and did a little job on it and probably caused the belt to snap quicker than usual, maybe a piece of wire cause all the other sprockets look fine?. Maybe they had replaced the oil pump with one that had a "wire tag" on the sprocket, pulled off the label and forgot to snip off the wire? Some of the nicks have slightly rough edges & I could probably smooth them with a file, or get a new pulley/oil pump sprocket (can't find at Rockler) or replace the oil pump with a new one (that I bought from czny on this forum, just in case..) that of course has a new sprocket. These nicks really aren't very deep? All the timing belt covers are good, except one area of a gasket had swollen and poofed out so it wasn't sealed in that area - I think it is the top of the middle cover? here's pic and a quick vid nicked oil pump sprocket 20181024_013358.mp4 Edited October 25, 2018 by Craigar redid video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianmitchtay Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 (edited) I can't remember from when I rebuilt mine if you can or not, but if you can get that sprocket off the oil pump and put a new one on - sounds like you've got one - then I'd do that for sure, those are some mean nicks! I wonder what happened... Between that and the coolant leak I can see why the belt broke. Edit: Derr I just took another look at the first photo and I'm gonna say with confidence that you could just pull that sprocket off and put the "new" one on there Edited October 25, 2018 by Brianmitchtay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 I've seen a good many nicked and compromised oil and cam sprockets - you are exactly right - just file them smooth and you'll be done. The overall size and distribution of the belt won't lend itself to any significant wear on small localized points like that if they're filed smooth. but if you have a new pulley - then sure, run it. Someone probably grabbed the sprocket with a pipe wrench or chain wrench at one point to hold it still, that's pretty common, and gouges the surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Just file it smooth(er). It will be fine. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 I would just dress up the sharp edges and run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Might as well reseal the pump while in there, no? Once it is out of the block, no big deal to swap the pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 yes, may be results of an attempt to undo that 12mm nut on the oil pump shaft I use a rattle gun to get off and glue them back on in order to not damage other components 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 (edited) Thanks everybody - and DaveT forgot to refresh this page - and now I see your good comment. Yes I got gaskets for the oil pump AND a complete new oil pump - but don't see any reason to use the new one unless I see damage/excessive wear when I pull and see the existing one - and of course I'd smooth sharp edges on pulley nicks. Here's a daylight view of where I'm at so far and a vid of play in the old passenger side belt passenger timing belt play 20181025_141925.mp4 Edited October 26, 2018 by Craigar more details Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 For some reason, the post below.never went up? Anyway, the oil pump shaft seal is one of the main causes of lifter tick. If it's oem original pump, it's due for replacement by now. The seal in the oil pump The nut unscrews, and the pully slips. off. You have to hold the pump impeller to keep it from rotating. An impact wrench might get it loose , but be careful with that, and it will be hard to get one on there if it's on the car. The oil pump shaft seal might be worth replacing (along with the orings that seal it to the block) unless you know the pump is fairly new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 (edited) .. Quote Anyway, the oil pump shaft seal is one of the main causes of lifter tick. If it's oem original pump, it's due for replacement by now. replace just the oil pump shaft seal (and mickey mouse, etc. if it all looks good) or are you suggesting replacing the entire oem original pump? I thought that oil pumps usually last for at least 4~500K miles? Thanks Edited October 27, 2018 by Craigar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 The pumps last a very long time. Have not seen a bad one. The seals do not last forever. By 150K or more, and 20 years or more, they are due. The original o rings / Micky mouse ring get hard and leak. Shaft seals wear and get hard. It's been a while since I had one apart - I think there is an o ring between 2 pieces that make up the pump. I would rather re seal a still good OEM pump than use an aftermarket. It's one of those things - you already have it this far apart - if it hasn't been done, it's a lot less time to do now, rather than when the leaks get annoying or the lifter tick starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 (edited) Oh ya! I already had all those parts (i hope..) on hand and knew when the day came (belt snapped) I (or some good mechanic) would do everything that I could on the engine/cooling system in that area of the motor - and I'm planning on putting my timing belt covers back on, unless you talk me out of it (yea I know it saves time doing the job in the future. I'm located in the beach area of L.A. and we have very mild weather over all and I plan on only using it on the street, but my luck a rock or nail will get in that perfect position ;). And my lifters are starting to click a little AND I'm leaking a lot of oil all over the front end (add about 1/2 quart every 2~3 weeks) I may even go out in little while (after wind dies down) and pull the pump tonight + reseal + re-install - don't want to leave the oil galleys exposed any longer than I have to. Maybe put a piece of masking tape over the hole while it's out & I'm messing around Edited October 27, 2018 by Craigar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 (edited) I finally am starting to feel "initiated.." to the "EA82 club", started just by getting the oil pump out.. got to fight with my first really stuck bottom timing cover bolt - actually just stuck in the plastic with it's slightly rusted sleeve = few good squirts of liquid wrench and wiggling back in forth with some constant outward pull (and some cussing, which didn't really help) took about 5 ~ 10 minutes - almost seemed forever with my carcass cocked sideways underneath the car. Sooo I left the top one in and weaseled the ear around the oil pump rather than completely take off that back section of TB cover , that blocks the oil pump from coming out - I'll probably have to take out the top one tomorrow (to remove that section of TB cover or have a terrible fight getting the pump to go back in.. OK now that I got the pump out, found out how important it's going to be to buy/borrow/beg or steal a extra big pair of chanellock pliers (after trying with the wrong tools - at least didn't nick it up worse than it is) to crack the 12mm nut holding the sprocket on - but it ain't gonna happen in the middle of the night, so I wrapped up the rotor side with cling wrap plastic and here's how I protected the open cavity & galley for now(cap off seasoning, parked in kitchen drawer, got SO lucky fits perfect, often wonder why I save crap like this) and the Mickey Mouse gasket is pretty flat, so I imagine all the rest of the seals are worn too. I notice in this "gasket kit" the Mickey Mouse, and the 3 big O rings are actually a real dark cobalt blue color, rather than black like all the rest (except the orange/red one) is that a special compound? Also I don't know what the other gaskets are for? I got a Haynes manual but it's "sketches" are pretty "sketchy" and strain my brain. Thanks in advance Edited October 27, 2018 by Craigar more details... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 The black ones (old ones) are likely just regular old Buna n. They get hard and take a set after this many years and miles at temperature. The new ones are more likely viton, which survives a lot better. They don't get hard. By this many miles, and around 10 or so years, the same thing has happened to the oring between the head and the cam carrier. Also, the same oil channel passes through the headgaskets, and those both are likely leaking by now, if the engine has never been resealed. But that is a bigger project. I would wait on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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