Hi guys,

     My trusty 88 GL 4wd wagon finally needs a rear axle (302,000 miles). I have done fronts, but not rears. Is there anything special I should know, or differences between doing rears from fronts?

 

 

Thanks,

Eric

Knock the two roll (or cotter) pins out. Use the correct sized punch as the inner pin passes through a hollow section in the diff stub.  Get this wrong and you’ll be in a whole world of hurt.  I’ve been there, done that.

Get the inner CV cup moving on the diff output spline as these weld themselves together with rust if not removed “often”.

Once that’s moving, jack up the rear wheel on the side that you’re removing the CV shaft. Remove the strut mount bolt and swing the hub down lower to release the CV shaft off one set of splines. The other side should just pull out. 

Install is the opposite of removal  

Cheers 

Bennie

From experience, removing the inner joint from the differential will test your patience. 

I have heard you can just drive it around you a little after driving the pins out and that will break them loose. Mine were not that bad on my Brat. One of those rare times I just got lucky!

Anyone here have a source for the rear axles? Rockauto no longer has them listed. I have a 1984 GL 4WD wagon that I am seeking them for. Thanks for all help and do have a great day, all!

50 minutes ago, lrgvanman said:

Anyone here have a source for the rear axles? Rockauto no longer has them listed. I have a 1984 GL 4WD wagon that I am seeking them for. Thanks for all help and do have a great day, all!

 If you're current axles' shafts are still intact, you can replace the CV cups and joints with inner joints from EA82 or even 90-94 Legacy rear axles.

Takes some spring clip pliers and a CV banding tool.  BUt it's really the on;y option.

This is why I am not wheeling my EA81 wagon right now.  Can't find any new axles.

1 hour ago, lrgvanman said:

Anyone here have a source for the rear axles? Rockauto no longer has them listed. I have a 1984 GL 4WD wagon that I am seeking them for. Thanks for all help and do have a great day, all!

reboot them instead of replace them.

or get a used one and reboot it.

Genuine Original Equipment Replacement Parts	1984 SUBARU GL Base
All Vehicles - 1984 - SUBARU - GL - Base - UNIVERSALS & REAR AXLE https://www.subarupartsamerica.com/parts/1984/SUBARU/GL/Base/?siteid=216122&vehicleid=45717&section=UNIVERSALS %26 REAR AXLE Most of the parts are discontinued but if you click on "View Part Diagram" it will give you the OEM part #, which might help in your online search and maybe you can find a direct replacement.

Edited March 30, 20197 yr by Subarule

Thanks for the replies folks. Just to update: I had a catastrophic bearing failure before I could install a new axle. I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out?

 

Eric

"Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? "

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/?tab=comments#comment-1398686

 

I think what he's dealing with is a stuck stub in the diff.

Here's what needs to happen.

First, unboot the inner CV joint.  Remove the inner lip circlip.  Remove the shaft and inner race/cage.

Now, clean grease out of the bottom of the cup.  

You wil be able to see the pressed in "plug" at the bottom.  Drill a hole through it, sheet metal screw it and pull with puller.  Or whatever else caveman you can do but get that plug outta there.

Now you need an E10 "reverse" torx socket.  1/4 drive deep well is best.  Use it to remove the bolt in the center of the diff stub that holds it into the diff.

Now the cup and stub can be taken to a press and pressed apart.  sometime requires heating the cup around the stub, but if so you won't want to reuse that cup.

" I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. "

 

Have a set of these & they are better quality than most available locally:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Drive-E10-Deep-E-Torx-Socket-Trident-T120610-Free-P-P/122072255192?epid=11017011463&hash=item1c6c12cad8:g:2TAAAOSwARZXo2We

Edited April 23, 20196 yr by czny

16 minutes ago, czny said:

" I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. "

 

Have a set of these & they are better quality than most available locally:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Drive-E10-Deep-E-Torx-Socket-Trident-T120610-Free-P-P/122072255192?epid=11017011463&hash=item1c6c12cad8:g:2TAAAOSwARZXo2We

duh.

I should have read better.

I swear I'm losing my ability to read and process information.

I use a block of wood held against the stub axle, nut on the thread end, then use a  BFH to hammer the sucker out. 

If you deform the end of the stub axle in the process, use an angle grinder to gently shave away the buldge until the nut comes off. Then pull the stub axle through the last part of the bearing. 

To get the bearing casing out, (if original it’ll be a three piece) I use a solid 50mm towball to hammer it out - place the round part of the tow ball on the bearing case, use the other side to hammer against.  I use this method to tap the new bearing case (usually a one piece) back in, going gently until it’s snugly home. I’ve not had any issues undoing this. Just make sure your towball doesn’t have crap on it or any pitting. 

All the best with it! 

Cheers 

Bennie

Nice tip on using a towball on the race, I'll certainly give it a try, thanks. I'm trying to separate the stub that goes through the hub and wheel from the old axle. This is now out of the car.

 

Eric