My 92 Loyale with a 2" lift has the front passenger CV axle rubbing on the frame and the boots keep tearing. What should I check out first? Already gone through 3 Axles in 3 months...

Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ?

1 hour ago, Dee2 said:

Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ?

Hm I'm not sure honestly. On flat ground it does seem like the Passenger front side is angled more like someone is sitting in it.

1 hour ago, Dee2 said:

Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ?

It's the 2" ADF lift. I have not lowered the crossmembers. My struts are also starting to get worn if that would affect it.

Edited March 24, 20197 yr by Nowah9

maybe some photos would help

5 hours ago, Dee2 said:

maybe some photos would help

 

6 hours ago, Dee2 said:

maybe some photos would help

That bare metal part on the axle is the part thats rubbing. It was installed 2 days ago and the boots already torn....:/

Wtf is that drive shaft?? I’ve never seen one with the inner cup being so long. 

Also a two inch strut lift only on the MY/L series is known to chew out CVs in no time. 

Cheers 

Bennie

It's one of those new-fangled aftermarket axles.

OP, most of us stay as far away from aftermarket axles as possible.  Your axle is hitting the frame because it's not OEM and the axle shaft is oversized.  Check your engine and transmission mounts for tears, check your suspension and subframes for accident damage.

7 hours ago, el_freddo said:

Wtf is that drive shaft?? I’ve never seen one with the inner cup being so long. 

Also a two inch strut lift only on the MY/L series is known to chew out CVs in no time. 

Cheers 

Bennie

It was supposed to be a "heavy duty Axle".  I know I was gonna go through axles quicker but it's only lasting 2 days. And It didn't happen when I first installed the lift so something's gotta be wrong 

Edited March 25, 20197 yr by Nowah9

43 minutes ago, carfreak85 said:

It's one of those new-fangled aftermarket axles.

OP, most of us stay as far away from aftermarket axles as possible.  Your axle is hitting the frame because it's not OEM and the axle shaft is oversized.  Check your engine and transmission mounts for tears, check your suspension and subframes for accident damage.

I would go OEM if I could fine one. It only started happening after getting stuck and pulled out of a mud pit so I think something got damaged. 

Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop.  Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel.  Makes for a tippy front end wheeling.

Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems.

1 hour ago, FerGloyale said:

Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop.  Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel.  Makes for a tippy front end wheeling.

Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems.

Agreed.

Since dropping front crossmember another 1" on my 4" SJR lift I've had zero front axle problems with torn boots or hitting axles.

Moving OEM axle small end boot clamps to position closer to inner DOJ helps too.

YMMV.

When did folks start mixing and matching lift heights between the crossmember and strut tops?  Back in my day () if your strut mounts were a 4-inch lift, you dropped your crossmember 4 inches.  Three inch strut spacers?  Three inch crossmember blocks...

Seems like a pretty simple concept to me, but all the Forester guys keep asking why they're tearing axle boots.  Gee, I wonder why...

1 hour ago, FerGloyale said:

Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop.  Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel.  Makes for a tippy front end wheeling.

Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems.

I bought the stuff to do this  with the lift kit I'm just not sure if I'm mechanically inclined enough to do it.

Edited March 25, 20197 yr by Nowah9

That axle has a length of "thickened" cross section.  It should be a uniform section thickness between the inner and outer boot.  The thicker section in combination with your lift has a compound effect of consuming needed  clearance .

Not sure how to compensate for both problems together.

51 minutes ago, Dee2 said:

That axle has a length of "thickened" cross section.  It should be a uniform section thickness between the inner and outer boot.  The thicker section in combination with your lift has a compound effect of consuming needed  clearance .

Not sure how to compensate for both problems together.

I got in touch with ADF and they said the diameter of the axle is too large so I guess I'll be swapping it out for a 4th time. Practice makes perfect I guess!

11 hours ago, carfreak85 said:

When did folks start mixing and matching lift heights between the crossmember and strut tops?  Back in my day () if your strut mounts were a 4-inch lift, you dropped your crossmember 4 inches.  Three inch strut spacers?  Three inch crossmember blocks...

When the forester people worked out that they could get away with using only the two in strut lift without issue. 

 

11 hours ago, carfreak85 said:

Seems like a pretty simple concept to me, but all the Forester guys keep asking why they're tearing axle boots.  Gee, I wonder why...

Probably because they’re going for a two inch strut top lift with larger struts (if that’s possible) - or they’re going for a strut lift that’s greater than two inches without any subframe drop. 

But I’m only guessing as I don’t have a Foz and my mates with two inch strut lift don’t have any issues.

Cheers 

Bennie

You absolutely need a subframe drop if you want to stop ripping boots. my loyale with a 2” adf lift would blow axles all the time until i dropped the subframe