SubaSkeet Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Hola, Subaru owners. I'm new to this forum and also not very experienced with cars. for instance, I tried to fill the brake fluid in my '94 Loyale wagon this morning and spent 5 mins just trying to find the lid. I want to know a little about what I've gotten myself into when I bought the car. It's got 120k miles on the odometer, 5spd. manual tranny, a couple oil leaks, CV/Boots/axles that click when I turn, a wiring problem for the a/c, probably bad brakes (squeak whenever I apply them), and, most importantly since its used as a daily commuter till i get new tires, NO POWER. Sure, the spedometer reads to 120mph but it seems to have trouble traveling at any speed faster than 70mph without shaking like the engine block's loose. I heard from someone who owns the same vehicle that you can install a turbo on it to at least let it fly at a comfortable speed on the freeway, but I have no idea where to get the parts, how to do it, or how much it would cost considering its possible at all. Please, any help at all would be very nice. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobBrumby Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 I have been told on a few occassions on this board that it is easier and in some cases cheaper to swap in a turbo engine than it is to fabricate one onto a N/A (normally aspirated) engine. Yeh one of my cv's clicks too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 It's far easier to just buy a turbo car. You shouldn't have any difficulty doing way over 70 with the engine you have tho.... You have 95 HP - My Brat only has 80 HP, and I've had it up to about 95 - smooth as silk. You just need to replace those bad axles, get your tires balanced, and get the engine running smooth. Unlike other cars, the older Subaru's don't have HP to spare - every bit counts, and losing a small amount can really suck. They are just fine if you make the needed repairs and maintenance. Turbo isn't what you want in an older soob if you aren't mechanical - they tend to be finicky at times, and don't have much more power than what you have. Your's is 95 HP, and the Turbo is 115..... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Skeet: You sound pretty ambitious, and that will be helpful as you develop your skills. However, those skills do need to be developed before start getting in over your head!! This car is a perfect one to learn on. If you get it up to speed again, you will have learned much of what you will need to know for more complex projects. I'm talking about going thru each system, in a systematic way, and getting everthing fixed or caught up on maintenance. A Haynes book and this Board is all the reference you'll need. You may want to start building your tool set too, if you haven't done so already. What you'll end up with is a reliable transportation vehicle, and knowledge you can apply to your next car (preferably a Sube, of course). Don't get your hopes up too high as far as making this thing a screamer. That's not what the Loyale is all about. You really do need to step up to a turbo in an EA82 to get respectable performance. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 22, 2004 Author Share Posted July 22, 2004 gracias for the advice. On to the next problem... about the CV's, the clicking obviously isn't good a noise that says the car's in great condition. ive taken it to several places to get it checked out: purrfect auto (the most pathetic excuse for an autoshop since they hire bums off the street to do their mechanics), a local import shop, and my friend who's an ex-chevy mechanic. the latter two said that the car will still run on it, but eventually it'll get worse and it hampers performance. purrfect said that i have to replace both whole axles within a week or my steering will lock up (btw, it's been 3 mo.s since they told me that). all three said that it would cost close to a grand to get it fixed. im guessing these kind of problems have happened before, so anyone who's been thru this or knows anything about it is more than welcome to help, if they would like. thanksabunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaRube Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Are you saying they estimated ALL the work (Axles,brakes,etc.) would be about a grand, or just the axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 22, 2004 Author Share Posted July 22, 2004 for both axle replacements and new wheels/tires, plus any other crock they wanted to load on actually, now that i think about it, the price was closer to $750 on avg. sry bout that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Skeet: You should replace the one side that is going out, but the second is not necessary. However, if you want to service the front axle, it might be a good idea to do both axles, as well as any other front end parts that are worn out. You could also do the bearings, disks and shoes while it's all apart. I wouldn't pay a shop to do this. $750 is a lot of jack, IMO. For two axles...are you kidding??? If you have time and space, consider doing this yourself. The process is well-documented, and some Board memebers have some special tricks for doing the axles quickly. You'll have around $300 in parts for a basic front axle overhaul. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 22, 2004 Author Share Posted July 22, 2004 I was just informed that replacing the cv's wouldn't really help or hinder the overall performance of the car, and therefore replacement probably wont happen until it starts clicking when im going in a straight line. on the other hand, a tire rotation and/or balance is probably necessary, at least to stop the uncontrollable shaking on the freeway. but while I do this, just to find something to do to my first car, is there any way i can replace the stock tires with some more attractive tires? you know, deeper tread, maybe a little widening, etc. i realize that the wheels would have to be replaced in order to get it wider, but if its cost effective im fine with anything. i'll prolly replace the tires soon anyway so i might as well do it now while i got the cash, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 I was just informed that replacing the cv's wouldn't really help or hinder the overall performance of the car, and therefore replacement probably wont happen until it starts clicking when im going in a straight line. on the other hand, a tire rotation and/or balance is probably necessary, at least to stop the uncontrollable shaking on the freeway. From my experience, a clicking axle, damaged cv joint is the cause of heavy vibration at highway speeds. I think you'll have trouble removing this vibration with just a tire balancing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaRube Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 New tires will certainly help. Especially if they are unevenly worn. A new set of tires and struts/shocks smoothed out my ride quite a bit. I have been riding on a clicking left axle for over 8 months now. I never even hear the click anymore 'cause I just avoid doing any u-turns while in gear. It hasn't caused a vibration problem for me yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Let me straighted some of this out.... 1. Clicking axles are caused *usually* by the outer joint, which will NOT generally cause vibration at freeway speeds unless the damage is severe. The inner joint (which is a Double Offset Joint (DOJ) - not a CV joint) when it goes bad will do so rapidly, and cause massive vibration at nearly all speeds over 20 MPH - they will click and clack and sound like something is seriously wrong (think rod knock noises here...) going in ANY direction - turning, straight - doesn't matter because the DOJ doesn't swivel when you turn like the CV. To summarize, your clicking *while turning* is almost certainly an outer CV joint, it is not the cause of your vibration, and if the clicking isn't severe and the boot is still good it can last a LONG time in this state. Think 10's of thousands of miles.... it will not hurt your performance in the slightest. If the boot is bad and the grease dries up, then it could fail sooner, but you will have plenty of warning before it does. If it fails, just throw it in 4WD and go straight home - it will make awful, horrible noises, but it shouldn't damge anything you won't be replaceing anyway.... and you steering won't lock up - that's just BS. Clicking axles are not a good representation of the overall condition of the car. Older Subaru's eat axles like candy, and it has nothing to do with maintenance or care. Hardly a month goes by that I don't put an axle in someone's Subaru - sometimes 3 or 4 a month. 2. $750 is insanely expensive. You can get BRAND NEW axles for $90 each, or remaned units for about $65. An axle would take an experienced mechanic about 1 hour for each side, and even at dealership rates that's only about $200 in labor (that's an overestimate - more like $150 - $160 I should think).You can do it yourself and save a lot of cash. The tools to do the job won't cost you what the labor would to have somone else do it. If the clicking isn't too bad, and there is still grease in there, buy a boot kit and a tube of grease and pull the axle out - clean and reboot it. A boot kit and some grease will run you less than $20. 3. Tires and rims..... you shouldn't need ALL new rims - maybe 1 if it's bent too badly, but unlikely - even the big chains will straighted a steel rim with a hammer and rebalance it. You can get a set of tires for about $80 at the discount places - true they are cheap tires, but they are better than nothing, and will last at least 30-40k with careful driving. If you do need a rim or two, you can get them brand new for $25, or get one from a junk yard for $10. 4. Brakes - they are so easy to do that if you do nothing else yourself you should do this. You need only a couple tools (12 and 17mm wrench, jack, and lug wrench, and the little tools that spins the caliper piston back in) and the pads are like $20 for a complete set. Rears are like $10 for the shoes. A tube of anti-squeal compound is a good idea to.... and probably some brake fluid. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 24, 2004 Author Share Posted July 24, 2004 That helps a great amount, thanks. came across another possible problem yesterday. i got off the freeway and heard nothing but squeaking all the way home. im guessing it has something to do with the car just being old, but if or what i have to replace to get it to stop (considering it does damage) is all greek to me. whatever it is, ive never heard it this bad on any car before. it squeaked from the time i pushed on the gas thru left turns and brakes. the only time it didnt make a noise was in right turns. funny, aint it? either way, im most likely going to replace the front axle myself, along with the boots/cvs/brakes/maybe wheels and any other joint connected to it. just an estimate, how long would this take, and how much experience do i need? i have friends that know about as much as i do about fixing cars and they have replaced their axles in less than a day. this is my first, and as far as my wallet is concerned, only car for the next year or three, so i dont want to screw it up by attempting to do something i cant. gracias por la ayudara. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 The sqeaking sounds like possibly a wheel bearing. You can inspect them when you do your axle(s). I would say that if you have never done an axle before, and you are somewhat mechanically inclined, you could easily do one of the two axles in a weekend. That's including the wheel bearings, brakes, and all that other stuff. You should do a search on here for "axle removal" or something along those lines. There have been a lot of discussions posted on it in the past.... especially you should note that most manual's will say that you can't do it - that only the dealer can. Don't be scared by this as it's really not that hard. I do a full axle swap - from the time it's up in the air to the time it's back down in about 30 minutes if I'm really moving.... although I rarely am, and usually take my time - inspect things carefully, and perhaps adjust some other things while I'm in there. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 24, 2004 Author Share Posted July 24, 2004 thanks for the help. if i dont have the time to do it myself, ill probably just stick it in the shop just cuz i dont wanna hear it every time i drive. btw, any ideas on where to get the parts local to vegas, or will i have to get it online? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 AutoZone will have or can get anything you need, as will any subaru dealership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 25, 2004 Author Share Posted July 25, 2004 Good news! for me, at least. I was talking to a friend who works owns an auto detailer/enhancer shop (and is also running for a city district position) about getting a limo tint from him and how much it would cost. he said that if i helped him put up signs for his campaign he'd hook me up with a free tint, as dark as i want. while its there i might be able to get my front axle and anything else i need done cheap. that beats fixing the car myself in 115 degree weather for a weekend, in which i'd probably do something to screw it up anyway. alright! people like that rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viceversa Posted July 25, 2004 Share Posted July 25, 2004 Sounds good -- You need proper equipment for the job, a lift. Otherwise you risk dropping the thing on yourself, in the worst case scenario. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 25, 2004 Share Posted July 25, 2004 A lift is not required for an axle swap - that's just silly. A jack, and one jack stand is all you need. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 25, 2004 Share Posted July 25, 2004 Hey Gd, he's on the "east coast". By saying "lift", he might mean a jack or stand :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 I'd just like to say, this is all great information. You'll be fine doing it all yourself. I just have a couple tricks, a special tool isn't needed to wind the caliper back in, just a 1" or larger box wrench if you have one (if you don't you might as well just buy the right part), and for taking out the spring pin to disconnect the axle from the transmission, take an extra medium-sized screwdriver, and cut off the end so it's just a flat end and this works great for popping that pin out. Also, axles are easy, I rebuilt a DOJ in probably less than a couple hours of actual work (sure it took a few days waiting for parts, amek sure that you have everything BEFORE you start, it's alot easier). A week or so ago I replaced the axle on the other side in probably less than an hour and a half or so. A little confidence and a Haynes manual should get you through it, and if you run into something weird give it a few hours posted on here and you'll probably get a good answer from someone who's run into the same problem! Good luck! and may you learn alot! -Chux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 26, 2004 Author Share Posted July 26, 2004 thank you all for putting your information on here for me. its awesome to have a forum like this instead of having to trust a regular mechanic all the time to find out what the problems to my car are. not only is it better help, its free. when i get my own paypal account i'll be sure to donate some money to share my appreciation. I have a friend who's a metalworker and ive asked him to try a couple things for me: build a mock wrx hood scoop, take off the plastic trimming and put a diamond-plate covering on everything below it, and a grill protector on the front. its time to make my sooby unique. after all thats done, ill get some hella lights on the grill and the top and install a rack since i need one for my new job anyway. no matter how ridiculous this's gonna look, its gonna be original. i think. heck, with as many people on this site that do that kinda stuff, it probably HAS been done before. any other ideas that would be fairly cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Just go to a junk yard and find parts there, its lots cheaper than trying to buy them new. they are also not that hard to put on. im not that knowledgeable about cars either and so far with a little help from friends i have changed out cv joints, ball joints, alot of new wiring and hoses and other small stuff. Keep the work going. Rock On Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted July 28, 2004 Author Share Posted July 28, 2004 just for kicks, how ugly would my loyale look if i spray painted the whole bottom of the car underneath the trim and wheel basins? im threatening to do it if i dont get a reply, heh. and while im at it i cant find for the life of me a roof rack for my car prebuilt anywhere. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Skeet: The OEM racks came on lots of the EA82 era cars, including Loys. I would post something on the marketplace Board. I'm sure someone has an extra one they can spare. As far as paint and effects, you can alter the look of your car drastically by experimenting with different color combinations, and changing/eliminating trim. For example, on "Alleywagon '04", I painted the pillar between the F & R doors body color (instead of black). This gives the car more of an "old school" Sube look. I'm also thinking of eliminating the side moldings, or perhaps changing the color to bumper gray, or something. The contour at the rubber molding is a good break point if you want to go 2-tone. Wheels, grill and both bumpers are also cool places to get creative with paint. good luck, John just for kicks, how ugly would my loyale look if i spray painted the whole bottom of the car underneath the trim and wheel basins? im threatening to do it if i dont get a reply, heh. and while im at it i cant find for the life of me a roof rack for my car prebuilt anywhere. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.