Turtle Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Greetings! Just did a search on what to use to remove the fill and drain plugs on my '86 GL rear differential. I did try the 1/2" ratchet drive trick and it does fit. However, there is enough play that I am concerned about damaging the plug further. Is there actually a tool produced by Subaru for these plugs? I think I'm going to order two new plugs from the local dealer anyway. Time is getting short to work outside on the car... Snow's coming!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 No special tools are avalible from the dealer as far as I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 My Advice: Do yourself a favor and make sure you can remove the FILL plug before you remove the DRAIN. I had my Datsun 510 (same diff) done at a Goodyear, they got drain undone, drain fluid, then OOPSS!!! couldn't get the fill loose. Eight hours later they finally got my drain and fill done. (I didn't do it myself for similar fears of having trouble with the plugs on my then 23-yr-old diff and 15-yr-old tranny. Maybe better yet, let a pro swear at it the first time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Just use the ratchet and it'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 on my wagon I had to put a floor jack under a breaker bar to get it to crack loose. some good quality penitrating oil is good to use before hand too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84Scoobaroo Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 on my wagon I had to put a floor jack under a breaker bar to get it to crack loose.some good quality penitrating oil is good to use before hand too. I had to put mine on a lift, and use a 2ft breaker bar, it was in there good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 just use an extension and impact wrench, pops them out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtle Posted October 7, 2004 Author Share Posted October 7, 2004 Maybe better yet, let a pro swear at it the first time! I'm going to give it another whirl, then I'll take it to Whippy Lube. Those guys love me, they make me come out to move/start my truck when it goes it, they're all too fat to climb across the bench seat (driver's side door broken, again...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 NAPA carries a 4-sided tool designed for drain plugs. But it wont do you much good unless you can get the high in the air. Just cant get enough leverage from underneath. I agree with the others about using a 1/2. Unless it has been serviced regularly (rarely the case) the plug will be difficult to move. MAke sure you soak it well with penetrant, and if you are at a safe angle, you might try to heat it up with a propane torch before attempting to remove it. A breaker bar is almost a necessity. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 propane torch, heat the metal around plug, keep plug cool, then turn it out. hopefully =] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergman05 Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 NAPA carries a 4-sided tool designed for drain plugs. But it wont do you much good unless you can get the high in the air. Just cant get enough leverage from underneath. I agree with the others about using a 1/2. Unless it has been serviced regularly (rarely the case) the plug will be difficult to move. MAke sure you soak it well with penetrant, and if you are at a safe angle, you might try to heat it up with a propane torch before attempting to remove it. A breaker bar is almost a necessity. good luck, John This inverted square differential plug is an odd duck, to say the least. The square is not 13 mm; however, it is not quite 14 mm either. I asked NAPA about the above tool, with no luck. I find it hard to believe that Subaru would make the square larger than 13 mm, but that is what they have done - very puzzling. SOLUTION: For $2.30 I purchased a 2" length of 1/2" "keystock" (square metal bar) at my hardware store. I then cut a small rectangle of aluminum off of some roofing aluminum. I bent the piece to wrap all the way around the square bar so that it overlaps on just one side. The "built-up" bar (approx 13.5 mm) will now slide nicely into a 5/8" socket [the socket helps hold the aluminum sheeting square to the bar as well], and most important will now snug into the plug without any annoying slop! Of course, my exhaust pipe on my 05 outback blocks the use of the socket for the drain plug. So unless you can garner enough leverage out of a 1/2" open end placed on the bar itself (striking the box end with a sizeable rubber mallet), you will have to resort to a 1/2" crowfoot to be able to use your breaker bar. Trying to figure the torque for tightening them is a PITA. I took a Stanley blade and made some matchmarks on the plugs and case, and plan to simply tighten them back to the factory position. Q#1: Does the service manual call for some threadlock or the like on these plugs? Q#2: Is it a good idea to put friction modifier lube into my rear diff when I change it out, if my diff is limited slip? I have an auto trans. Thanks......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty2Austin Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 the special tool of choice by official Subaru mecanics at the dealer, is .... 1/2 drive snap-on breaker bar! (typically the 2 foot long bar) (i prefer craftsmen myself) yes, the 1/2 impact gun works well too.. in tight spaces especially :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I'm a fan of using a normal craftsman 1/2 in drive ratchet on it. Hit it up with some lube first, insert the socket, have it facing horizontal, but slightly low (with room to move up) then insert a floor jack under it... usually the plug will move. I used this tactic to replace the rear trailing arms on my GL without any air tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I 2nd the 1/2 craftsman rachet idea and floor jack with a twist, on my legacy I also used a 3inch extension with a large pipe wrench on the extension a floor jack on the rachet lifting the rear of the car off the ground. now staying out of harms way i had to use my foot on the pipe wrench and pushh untill the plug let loose, geeeesh that was tight, just snug it up on reinstall. I'm a fan of using a normal craftsman 1/2 in drive ratchet on it. Hit it up with some lube first, insert the socket, have it facing horizontal, but slightly low (with room to move up) then insert a floor jack under it... usually the plug will move. I used this tactic to replace the rear trailing arms on my GL without any air tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 1/2" drive breaker bar and some elbow grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 The NAPA tool I mentioned is a combination plug tool, designed to fit many different sized "internal" plug configurations. The only thing that makes it useful, is that it is made of hardened steel, and you can beat on it with a hammer. One other tip... When you {finally} get the plug off, reinstall a new one with a more common "external" type head. For example, square or six-sided, so you can put a wrench or socket on it. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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