Howdy, all. In the attached image, I've circled a set of bolts in blue that I want to be sure need to be removed before I continue trying to , in order to get the axle halfshaft off. I've managed to break one of these bolts free, but the other two are pretty damn-well fastened (I've tried lube+heat+breaker). I knocked out the spring pin and tried removing the diff. end first, but no go. Also, will any of the bolts circled in orange need to be removed? Anything else I'm missing? Having read some USMB posts, as well as the hardly-useful-Chilton's, I'm still stumped: I figured a picture's worth... well, you know.

 

Thanks!

Are you trying to replace the axle?

 

The rear axles work a little bit differently than the fronts. The rears have cups at each end, that slide onto stubs. So there is a stub axle on the rear hub, but this is not part of the halfshaft.

 

This is how I remove a rear axle.

 

Step one, pound out pins from the dished side. (located on the cups of the axle, one at the diff, one at the hub... 3/16 pin punch works great)

 

Step two, remove bottom bolt of shock... it has a capture nut, so don't worry about holding it. 17mm I believe.

 

Step Three, push as far down as possible on the hub/arm assembly. With it down, there should be enough room to slide off the axle cups from the stubs. I usually do the hub side first, then the diff side.

 

Hope this makes sense.... I'll check back in a few to clarify anything.

Ah, thank you! Your method worked like a charm.

 

I'm removing the halfshafts because the differential is (I believe) shot -- I get occasional, horrible spats of grinding when driving around in FWD, or constantly if I put in 4WD. I reckon removing the axles for the time being will at least save me (and others) from the painful racket, until I get a chance to figure out how to fix/replace the diff.

check the u-joints on the drivehaft. if that turns out to be the problem, any rear half of the driveshaft from auto or stick will fit the same, both u-joints are on the rear half

Or possibly a even worse case scenario.

The front diff could be going :-\

:-\

 

Will check the U-Joints this afternoon... Don't even wanna think about the possibility of the front diff. going out! It seemed--from driving with my head out the window and the like --as though the noise was coming exclusively from the rear end of the car.

U-joints look good; still think it's the diff. Another malfunction cropped up when I went to put the rotor back on, though: I noticed that the wheel cylinder piston no longer retracts. Does this necessarily mean that it needs to be replaced? If I pop it off of there and tinker with it, is there any chance I could fix it?

 

Thanks for the help!

I really need help here... I got the differential disconnected from the car itself, it's sitting on the ground with the axles and driveshaft attached. How do I get this freakin thing out? i've cracked the windshield and there's a dent in the door in the shape of my fist. help me before I kick it off the jackstands. I have issues with working on cars. do I need to put the diff back up to get the axles out? and the pins are out. Thanks a hell of a lot.

I really need help here... I got the differential disconnected from the car itself, it's sitting on the ground with the axles and driveshaft attached. How do I get this freakin thing out? i've cracked the windshield and there's a dent in the door in the shape of my fist. help me before I kick it off the jackstands. I have issues with working on cars. do I need to put the diff back up to get the axles out? and the pins are out. Thanks a hell of a lot.

 

if the spring pins are out....they're probably 'organically welded' (as my dad would say). Rust, and just plain time will make them alot harder to get off. Heat up the narrow part of the inner cups with a Mapp or propane torch (or acetelyne if you have one), and an air chisel if you have one. otherwise just a big hammer, and beat them off.

if the spring pins are out....they're probably 'organically welded' (as my dad would say). Rust, and just plain time will make them alot harder to get off. Heat up the narrow part of the inner cups with a Mapp or propane torch (or acetelyne if you have one), and an air chisel if you have one. otherwise just a big hammer, and beat them off.

 

 

+1 for BFH

make sure ot use anti-seize when you put them back on. +2 for BFbrassH

 

 

~Josh~

make sure ot use anti-seize when you put them back on. +2 for BFbrassH

 

 

~Josh~

 

oh yea, definately, in fact, if they are that hard to get off, maybe take a wire brush to them a little and clean 'em up. then put some anti-seize on 'em. and you'll be golden!

Pop the retaining ring out of the joint cup and pull the DOJ apart. That way you can at least work on getting the cups off the diff without lying on your back. Just cut the boot band on the joint end of the boot, and replace with a stainless steel hose clamp from home depot.

 

If you clean the grease out of the joint cup in the bottom is a steel plug that you can pry out with a screwdriver. Allows easy access to the splines for soaking with some penetrating lube.

 

GD

i think if i keep hitting it with this sledge hammer it'll come off... oops, broke the sledge. my goodness these things are stuck, lol. I think i've calmed down enough to get this done.

+1 for BFH

HA HAAA

derrick rules.

 

another vote for that.

with the diff on the ground and pins out the axles "should" come off.

 

did you try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? that stuff is awesome. sounds like yo'ure really stuck though.