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Loyale Airbox Mod

Featured Replies

I'm currently running a K&N filter and a Magnaflow exhaust on my 91 Loyale. I'm thinking about opening up the air box to get some more air flow. Where exactly should I open it up?

 

Does anyone have any pics of this mod?

Thiis is probably the single best mod for the SPFI EA82s. Basically, you take out the airbox and cut a hole or drill a bunch of small holes in the bottom of the airbox.

 

Tom

  • Author

Just so I have this straight... I am supposed to cut out the BOTTOM of the airbox. Not one of the sides?

 

By bottom, you mean the side that faces the ground, right?

  • Author

Well, I did the airbox mod this afternoon... I cut the bottom of the lower half completely out and I drilled a bunch of holes in either side and above the stock intake hole.

 

The first thing I noticed is that my exhaust(Magnaflow) is louder. I also noticed that is has more pep and I'm able to accelerate and pull hills better.

 

Over all, a definite improvement!

  • Author

Another question: Should I disconnect my battery to re-set my ECU?

Hi All,

 

I was thinking of doing this to my 92 Loyal, but I wondered if it would cause more problems because it would pull in the hot ait from the engine compartment, especially since the sit-box is above the front cat-converter. Wouldn't this cause the air to overheat?

 

 

T.J.

 

:confused:

Where can I get a Magnaflow exhaust for my 92 Loyale?

Do they really help HP?

How much do they cost?

 

T.J.

The way your post reads to me... please correct me if I miss read it.

<quote>"and I drilled a bunch of holes in either side and above the stock intake hole."

</quote>

 

You drilled holes in the upper part of the unit .. which is above the filter element? which allows air to bypass the filter to the MAF and straight into the intake???????

Thats how I read it as well.. if thats the case, I would recommend getting a new airbox from the yard and starting over.

 

I will see if I can get a pic of how mine was cut out.. basically, the whole bottom of the box is gone.. with only enough left to clip the top part on. Some very nice person on the board did a fabulous job of cutting it out for me.

Wow.... I should start making more of my intake plates and try to sell them!

 

I started with the drilled out stock air box method but it didn't seem to do too much...... I then made my own adapter to mount a cheap cone style filter right to the end of the MAF sensor, like how the stock air box mounts up. I can swap it back to the stock air box if needed as I made it a direct bolt on.

 

Here's how mine looks:

pict2796_re.jpg

 

 

With this setup I feel a much more smooth power band, before it seemed to have a slight lag around 2800-3500rpm... now it's nice and smooth from idle to 5K. It also gives that vaccum cleaner/ricer car sound above 3500rpms. I just need to upgrade to a K&N filter rather than this cheap thing.

On the clutch fan thing, I am still undecided on whether it is a good thing to remove.

 

I've run mine with it and without. Without the fan, it does seem to have better response. However, at least on mine which has a single-row rad, I prefer to have the much more stable temperature that the fan affords without having to turn on the electric fan. Maybe I'm just paranoid about things like engine temperature, but I think it actually is better for performance to keep the engine at its optimum temp.

I need to borrow a digital camera. My car uses an SPFI top mount hose (says Subaru FI on it) coming off my EA81 hitachi. Put a 4" chrome air cleaner adapter on it... ect. It runs good, and sounds good.

  • Author
Originally posted by electryc_monk

The way your post reads to me... please correct me if I miss read it.

<quote>"and I drilled a bunch of holes in either side and above the stock intake hole."

</quote>

 

You drilled holes in the upper part of the unit .. which is above the filter element? which allows air to bypass the filter to the MAF and straight into the intake???????

 

I did not drill hole above where the filter drops in. If you look insinde the airbox, there is a hole about halfway down to the flat part. I cut out the flat/rounded bottom and drilled holes in the sides and just above the hole that brings air in from the wheel well.

  • Author
Originally posted by calebz

Thats how I read it as well.. if thats the case, I would recommend getting a new airbox from the yard and starting over.

 

I will see if I can get a pic of how mine was cut out.. basically, the whole bottom of the box is gone.. with only enough left to clip the top part on. Some very nice person on the board did a fabulous job of cutting it out for me.

 

 

I should have taken pictures... :-\

you can *see* how Calebz and I read it though true? (with that emocon at the end I guess so.

 

anywho no worries now .

 

yeah the proverbial pictures worth a 1000 words kinda got reenforced here.

 

life goes on. and on. and on. and on.

Energizers just can't keep up with a human.

Originally posted by trooperjeep

. . . because it would pull in the hot ait from the engine compartment, especially since the sit-box is above the front cat-converter. Wouldn't this cause the air to overheat?

 

Old (abdiadic) rule of thumb: every 10°F temp rise = 1 HP drop.

 

Keep a cold air feed for best power. Do not use underhood air.

How do you modify your hood scoop (for outside air, not under hood air) to withstand intaking the elements? I have seen several "home" hood scoop mods and often wondered how they prevented this.

 

Josh

  • Author

Is there a way to get more cold air under the hood?

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