Hey i was just wondering if anyone in here has had success with the lincoln locker setup... You know you weld (with your lincoln welder) the spidergears together to make it a full locked diff and you disconnect the rear driveshaft when you drive it on the street

I wouldn't do it on a FWD car, if it was RWD then maybe, since you can correct a loss of traction/slide a lot easier. Disconnecting the driveshaft wouldn't have any effect, since the axle is still locked, and the wheels are still trying to turn the same speed all the time. I'd do it for a dedicated trail rig, but not something that would go on the street.

I wouldn't do it on a FWD car, if it was RWD then maybe, since you can correct a loss of traction/slide a lot easier. Disconnecting the driveshaft wouldn't have any effect, since the axle is still locked, and the wheels are still trying to turn the same speed all the time. I'd do it for a dedicated trail rig, but not something that would go on the street.

what about drivng to the trail... if you disconnect the driveshaft i thought it would but now that i think about it your right:banghead:

I was under the impression you pull one of the axles and not the driveshaft.

 

 

Jay

Lots of people run them, and most pull one of the halfshafts for street use. Some people don't pull the halfshaft,and just drive gentle so it doesn't snap. Expect some wheel skip on corners.

I've been driving with mine locked for about 10 months, i'll never look back, offroad it can't be beat, and on long trips, or in months where there isn't an offroad event, i'll just pull the axle in about 10 minutes.

 

 

100% better than an open diff

I ran one, until it broke. I guess my welds sucked. It was a hassle to always remove and install one of the rear CV's everytime I hit the trail, but noah is right... its 100% better than an open diff.

 

Now, i run a limited slip. It works alot better than an open diff, but not as good as a welded diff.

 

And you cannot pull the driveshaft, as it would leak gear oil through the output shaft and drain your tranny. You need to pull the CV joint, either one... doesnt matter.

 

-Brian

I ran one, until it broke. I guess my welds sucked. It was a hassle to always remove and install one of the rear CV's everytime I hit the trail, but noah is right... its 100% better than an open diff.

 

Now, i run a limited slip. It works alot better than an open diff, but not as good as a welded diff.

 

And you cannot pull the driveshaft, as it would leak gear oil through the output shaft and drain your tranny. You need to pull the CV joint, either one... doesnt matter.

 

-Brian

 

on an EA82, you can remove the rear half. since there's a center bearing/bracket.

 

it isn't any use, since it does exactly the same thing as putting the tranny in FWD....but you can remove it....

Mine has been welded for going-on two years now. I've snapped a few rear axles, but not since I went to the deeper EA82 joints on my EA81. If it's welded correctly it will snap the axle long before you are in danger of breaking the diff welds. I welded the spider gears to each other at 8 locations using a grade 8 bolt as filler jammed between the gear teeth. Then welded the spiders to the carrier as well. That's a total of 16 welds. I can't even imagine what it would take to break it, and I'm 100% sure the axle will break first, and if that doesn't break, the diff stub would twist off.

 

GD

weld it and dont look back:banana:

weld it and dont look back:banana:

Except if you want to see all of the other 4wd slipping backwards down the hill

It makes all the difference in the world off-road!

 

With out it, once you life a wheel, your screwed!

All forward motion stops, one front wheel and one rear will spin and you won't move.

You will have two wheel drive once you lift a tire.

 

Welded your guranteed at least 3 wheel drive.

You can lift your rear wheel 2ft in the air and still not loose traction.

Subaru's are nose heave so you will most likely lift a rear anyway.

 

My axles are more exposed than most but I can pull an axle in less than 60 seconds!

55 of those seconds are spent pounding the pin out.

 

Weld it! Keep an axle out till your going wheeling.

Install the axle then drive to your favorite wheeling spot.

Don't look back!

 

My .02

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer

84 GL Mad Max

01 Forester

I can pull an axle in less than 60 seconds!

55 of those seconds are spent pounding the pin out.

 

 

heres a time saver Ive been running

 

 

 

works fine SJR

Whats that off of?

 

I want one too:brow:

what a cool quick disconect! is that home fab?

what a cool quick disconect! is that home fab?

 

go to the lacal hardware store or tractor place, you will have to bend them to fit the axle radius

I've been using coat hangar with good results, i just throw a few in the back of the car before i hit the trails.

 

They also work pretty good holding up exhaust when you're pulling out a toyota

go to the lacal hardware store or tractor place, you will have to bend them to fit the axle radius

sweet! what would i call it so the guys at the tractor shop know what im talking about?

If you look here:

 

http://www.jergensinc.com/pins.aspx?source=search_engine

 

they have a big selection of pins....not that you'd have to buy from them.....but a good place to find something that might work.

 

NV