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Oh Snap!!

Featured Replies

Ive found a 87 Sedan on CL with a DR already in it about 1hr from here. Salvage title from a wreck, it was originally an Auto now its a DR. Did the autos have the same rear Diff as the ratios as the DR's? Im nervous that the person that did the conversion did a poor job. I have a spare trans and rear diff in my garage so i can change it out. He is asking 1000.00 its tan outside and inside. Im thinking 500 tops. 137K miles, carb, no oil leaks but it burns it slightlly. I have a spare engine too.

 

What do you think? Offer him 500 over the phone and see if he is even intersted before i drive up there?

look at it first... it may look like swiss cheese underneath.

 

take what you are willing to spend... start low on your offer!

 

good luck and happy haggling!

  • Author

Anyone know about the Diff's? Are the autos and standars the same?

auto = 3.7

manual =3.9

 

definatly want to make sure those are the same,or at the very least dont engage 4x4 unless you are in mud.

auto = 3.7

manual =3.9

 

definatly want to make sure those are the same,or at the very least dont engage 4x4 unless you are in mud.

Mostly correct. You'll find some 5spd D/R FTAWD that are 3.7, most I think are this way. Some XTs had 5spd AWD with 3.9

  • Author

WAHOO!!!!!!

 

I finally have my 1987 DR GL Sedan. 550.00 137K Needs a few things here and there but no show stoppers. I drove it back from Frisco to Lafayette with no problems. One thing that had me concerned is that the guy said it burns oil, not big deal, just swap in the motor in my garage. Well this thing was slow, very slow, no power at all and smoked when i was on it going up some very long steep hills. Well once i got home and looked at the air filter it was SOAKED IN OIL. That explains everything. Took it out and it runs like a champ. So what is causing the oil to circulate back into the air box? Ill post some pics soon......then its off to the Off Road Section. Some lift 27" tires fresh paint....:headbang:

 

Did i mention the AC BLOWS COLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Orion:grin:

auto = 3.7

manual =3.9

 

definatly want to make sure those are the same,or at the very least dont engage 4x4 unless you are in mud.

 

 

my auto had 3.9

For the oil issue, make sure you have the updated PCV lines (look that up to make sure which is which) and replace the PCV valve itself with an OEM valve.

 

Should clear up the oil in the air filter.

  • Author

Sweet thanks! Ill check that tomorrow. Something is clearly wrong.

Oil in the airbox can be caused by a blocked air filter too.. That was the problem the only times I've seen oil up there

nice! what are you plans for her?

 

(I say SPFI for a start, or a webber)

man somone definately had a disagrement with the windshield but for that price it seems alight just got to find one for cheap

...Did i mention the AC BLOWS COLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Orion:grin:

 

Nice!!! ... My White Wagon Still has Working the A/C ... But it Only Blows Cold by Night! :eek:

Could you Post Pics of your Subie? ... :burnout:

  • Author

Ill post more as soon as i can take more. These are the only pics i have so far.

 

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii295/orionsworld/DSCN3189.jpg

 

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii295/orionsworld/DSCN3190.jpg

 

The plans are, new paint, a lift so i can clear 27" tires, roof rack, some sweet 6 lug rims. Windshield.

 

If any of you have any killer paint ideas let me know. I have a WyoTech Grad just itching to paint it for free. And he is GOOD!!!

 

Subaru Blue, Black, Heineken Green, Metallic gunmetal gray, 2 tone black and flat aircraft aluminum. There are just a few.

man i wish i had someone just itching to paint my cars i could deffinately use that on a couple cars

Pass emissions and then do the happy dance. I dont want to rain on your parade but the carb ea82 isn't the easiest to get to pass at altitude and with that oil in the filter issue even harder. If it passes emissions sign up for the rolling e test program and convert it to Weber Carb or do the SPFI conversion.

 

Id lift it and do all your fender chopping and such and then paint it. Im intrigued by Heineken Green.

Probably not as common in CO as they are here in OR but that reminds me of the '85 sedan I got out of a guy's yard for $100. Silver but otherwise identical to that - down to the totally mashed up windsheild, airbox full of oil, crappy exhaust, torn up back seat, and 5 speed D/R.

 

I Weber'ed it and drove it for about 30k miles and then traded it for my '83 hatch - the chick got rear ended in it a week later and I got my Weber back and put it on the hatch :lol:

 

Kinda sad though - I had done a lot of work to it including pulling out the dash for a heater core replacement, head gaskets, timing belt, ect, ect.

 

Keep it - the sedan's are somewhat rare with the D/R. I see very few of them.

 

If I were you though - if you plan on lifting it I would put in either an EA81 or an EJ22. When you are in the woods you don't want the EA82 giving you the trouble they are renown for.

 

GD

  • Author

Im suprised how many people reccomended me putting a webber on the car. Are they that much better? Maybe i just had good luck with the buggyroo?

 

 

Here are some of the wheels im looking at, I like the jeep style. I ran the chevy ones on the buggy. I guess i like them both, they will look good with 27x9M/T. Just not sure when ones yet.

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/818182217.html

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/788024001.html

Im suprised how many people reccomended me putting a webber on the car. Are they that much better?

 

Absolutely!

 

The low-end torque increase is the biggest difference. Since both barrels of the Weber snap open when you go to WOT instead of the secondary lazily catching up as the engine begins to rev you get more air at lower RPM and that increases torque. Which is what's it's all about off-road. SPFI does the same thing since it's just one big butterfly.

 

The other reason for the Weber is that it eliminates the additional metering ports of the Hitachi system. The Hitachi's have about twice as many "systems" on them that are supposed to help with driveability and with economy. Unfortunately many of them are not working by this age and the cost to repair them and the complexity of interfacing them with intake mods you may consider in the future (snorkel, etc) makes them a bear to work with. They don't respond well to modifications and you can't just rejet them as they are designed to be fed by the metering ports which require engine demand driven vacuum valves that are external to the carb.

 

GD

Here are some of the wheels im looking at

 

You do NOT want alloys or mags off-road. If you smack one on a rock you will crack them and they are not repairable in the field. A steel you can smack with a hammer and get to hold the bead again - not so with a mag. Best case you have to replace an expensive mag - worst case it fails catastrophically on the trip back from the trails.

 

GD

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