May 16, 200916 yr yea, the taper washers on the hub studs were a pain when I took apart the parts truck last fall. only a couple of them (total) came out on their own, but I was able to pull all 6 nuts off, and use a hammer to jostle the hub around, and then they came loose enough that I could take the whole assembly out.
May 16, 200916 yr Hey Chris! not sure on the rear stud. could've been. I've done the "press" by tightening before, but wasn't sure if that would suffice for this.... Yeah, it'll work just fine. Just put a piece of tape by it to mark it so you can periodically tighten it up until it's fully "seated".
May 17, 200916 yr No room for it. the stock front drivers frame rail in engine compartment has been removed, and a new section added that is straight. that was to fit the Toy IFS steering box in to clear the tires. and to have something strong enough to handle the forces on the steering box. so an EJ is too wide to fit in now, and too deep. the EJ's oil pan hangs down lower than an ea81 oil pan, and There's not room for steering clearance.... couldnt you just move it up and back a bit with custom mounts and/or clearance the pan?
May 18, 200916 yr Author I already need to do something for the ea81 pan. either clearance the pan, or bump stop it a bit more.... the only way to clear the EJ would be to un-neccesarily lift the Brat higher and raise my center of gravity.... besides, I've got a built up ea81 with only about 5k miles on it, and it will be getting SPFI later this summer anyway....
May 20, 200916 yr Author few more little updates. got the left side FJ40 rotor on, bearings repacked, and new seal. axle nuts torques/locked down... just waiting on my new hub stud kits to finish up the freshly painted lockouts... Then it's just a matter of getting the '90 V6 calipers installed, and fitting the brake lines... right side is apart, but need to remove inner seal and bearings yet, then prep for reinstall.... had to weld nuts onto all the studs this time to get them out. tried the FSM method, and the method in the how to keep your Toyota Truck alive book, to no avail..... slow going due to other project work last night: 1. Installed horn (annoying) on my son's bike 2. Installed new front wheel quick release skewer on my bike, as I snapped the head off Monday! 3. Second coat of Poly on trim for recent house project
May 27, 200916 yr Author got the left front corner finished tonight: lockout hub installed backing plate modified 1990 V6 toyota calipers installed wheel spacers put on, and new soft line installed on caliper... finished disassembly of the right side, and started the cleaning process. put final coat of poly on wood trim for house project....
May 29, 200916 yr Author right front corner is complete. had to replace the inner wheel bearings on it.... discovered problem with fitment of toyota soft brake lines in my layout, and discovered the original Brat brakelines will do the trick so my brake configuration is as follows: Subaru EA81 MC Subaru EA82 Hill Holder Subaru Hardlines - rebent/re-used Subaru EA81 front soft lines (2) Subaru EA81 T-fitting Toyota Truck Rear soft brake line Toyota Truck T-fitting Toyota Tercel rear brake lines (2) Toyota '83 FJ40 Rotors Toyota '90 V6 Calipers Toyota Truck Drums Custom Hardlines
May 29, 200916 yr Mick, if you want some cool SS braided lines let me know. I can get you some custom ones made up for about $30 a side for the fronts and about the same for the rears. Just an option.
May 29, 200916 yr Author Mick, if you want some cool SS braided lines let me know. I can get you some custom ones made up for about $30 a side for the fronts and about the same for the rears. Just an option. I may do that, as I know the ones I had on my Brat were getting a bit worn.... I need to verify full compatibility tonight.... according to some other stuff I read on YotaTech, I should just need to drill out the end of the banjo bolt, and it should work.....
June 2, 200916 yr Author looks like the soob front brake lines will work for sure. all soft lines and T's are in place, just need the last 5 hard lines made and put in... got the missing wheel lug put in and fully seated put in the 4.10 3rd member with Lockrite got the ebrake assembly freed up and working smoothly on the right rear, but left rear is being stubborn.... so "parking brake" may just be one wheel for now still contemplating exhaust
June 9, 200916 yr Author I guess I've made a little progress... -Sammy speedo cable is in all the way to the soob cluster now... -t-case dropped, filled, urethane shifter bushing installed, t-case remounted. (bushing is wonderful!) -brake lines are all fitted. discovered MC was toast, so new one going on tonight, then bleeding the lines. -rear shocks are installed. -modified the pass side inner seat rail with a 1.5" riser in front, and a custom made bracket welded onto the rear (after stock bracket was removed). tied it into the seat belt bolt. just added the 1.5" risers to the outside rail to match. should be able to mount the seat this evening... -painted the floor area where the new driveshaft tunnel is. -got my spring retainer plates and have them painted already... -figured out the boot mounting spots for the shifters. -fiddled with the exhaust... I'm gonna cobble something together that will at least get me to the exhaust shop without a ticket (hopefully) it's gonna be interesting to see what they do for the exhaust... the great low center of gravity I have means very little room for the exhaust piping... currently, I just have the first 10" of the Y pipe cut off from each side, then swapped sides, and mounted so the exhaust is going forward... maybe I should just do this... other items on short list: -run the wires for my fuel guage -use radius rod blocks from BYB lift as bump stop spacers for rear. -install spacers for front right bumpstop so oil pan doesn't need to be clearanced. -install spring retainers -install ebrake cable and outback ebrake handle....
June 9, 200916 yr This is all going into the USRM right? Nice build mick. maybe I should abandon the scout and swap it all into one of the bazillion brats I have.
June 12, 200916 yr Author ended up need to replace the rear wheel cylinders... (still in progress)... I've been able to piece together exhaust to get past the engine crossmember, now just need a few more pieces to get a muffler on it, and make it driveable to the exhaust shop without being too terribly noisey... got my tranny crossmember trimmed down a bit, and spacers installed so the 5 spd linkage doesn't rub any more... got more fluids in last night. hoping to drive it this weekend for the first time....
June 12, 200916 yr What exhaust shop u taking it to. I recomend terrys in WDM. Does great work and does custom welding....
June 12, 200916 yr Author What exhaust shop u taking it to. I recomend terrys in WDM. Does great work and does custom welding.... actually, it's in Clive and that's where I take all my exhaust work....
June 18, 200916 yr Author it's alive! drove it down the street tonight... power steering works good. brakes still need work though....
June 18, 200916 yr first off....i hate you.:grin:THAT IS AWESOME........ you are an inspiration to us all...and just thanks.cheers, brian:slobber: it's alive! drove it down the street tonight... power steering works good. brakes still need work though....
June 18, 200916 yr it's alive! drove it down the street tonight... power steering works good. brakes still need work though.... nice job I bet that was a jubilating ah, the uncertain and unknown. Hopefully there won't be that many bugs at least not major ones. again, my BRAT is in the garage without an intake or carb on the motor. Got the Iowa Indy race this weekend so mine will be not moving til another week when i get the remaining parts and the time to put things back together. Good job to see you had it runnning. Such a long wait.
June 23, 200916 yr Author not really. waiting on some spring retainers for the front uppers before I can take it to the exhaust shop... and the front crossmember will need modified some more. (was already slightly clearanced, but it needs to be chopped more to allow full suspension down travel....) plus it still needs more brake work.... it's parked in the street now as I'm still working to get my house on the market.... and the garage is all cleaned out...
June 23, 200916 yr once this is done you need to build a matching Tamiya bruiser / mountaineer chassis with a brat body to match
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