I've been trying to take off the crank pulley on my '92 Loyale so I can replace the timing belts. I took off the starter and had a pry bar stuck on the flywheel teeth to keep the crank from turning. Also using a t-handle with the 22mm socket on the crank pulley nut. Is the nut that holds on the pulley reverse thread instead of righty tighty? I can;t get the dang thing to budge! :Flame:Any suggestions?? Tips?? I need that pulley off so I can get the last timing belt cover off to put on the belts.

 

 

I wanted to get these timing belts on so I can play in the snow this weekend!!!

it is a standard bolt

someone may have applied loctite, which may require to remove

you should use 3/4" wratchet with LONG pipe

OR use zzz to remove cover

naked belts are beautiful

Pull the #1 plug and with the piston at BDC thread about 10 feet of 1/4" nylon rope into the cylinder. Use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket to remove the bolt - they are not left-hand thread - turn it out just like any other bolt.

 

GD

My solution has been to put a box end wrench on one of the 4 bolts that holds the tourque converter to the sheet metal that connects to the crankshaft. The wrench stops the rotation when it touches the side of the timing view port. But that probably only works on an AT....

My solution has been to put a box end wrench on one of the 4 bolts that holds the tourque converter to the sheet metal that connects to the crankshaft. The wrench stops the rotation when it touches the side of the timing view port. But that probably only works on an AT....

 

Yes - it only works on AT's.

 

GD

OR use zzz to remove cover

naked belts are beautiful

 

 

i love that easy access.

 

been off a year and belts/pulleys aint even dirty.

 

good luck, Bill

I Suggest to Spray some good Penetrating oil, then give Small hits to the Nut, so it makes it Easy to Turn.

Be Careful when Pulling the Pulley, a stuck Pulley must be pulled Carefully because if you use a Tool between the Pulley and the Engine Block, the Pulley can Break!

 

Good Luck!

Put a breaker bar on the pully bolt thats long enough that the end sits on the subframe rail and bump the engine.

put a breaker bar on the pully bolt thats long enough that the end sits on the subframe rail and bump the engine.

 

+1

it is a standard bolt

someone may have applied loctite, which may require to remove

you should use 3/4" wratchet with LONG pipe

OR use zzz to remove cover

naked belts are beautiful

I only have metric sets since this is a Japanese car. But the 22mm fits like a glove on there. Thanks for the LONG pipe idea, I actually used an old broom handle.

 

 

 

It finally moved! More leverage was what it needed. Thanks all for the tips. Now I can get this thing done and just in time, There is all ready 3" of snow on the ground when I woke up this morning!

Edited December 14, 200817 yr by cmiller

I think he meant a 3/4" DRIVE, not a 3/4" socket.

Andy