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Hair-brained ideas from a guy who cant sleep


The Beast I Drive
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Hey all,

 

So I am sitting here awake, unable to sleep, because I have these crazy thoughts and dreams about the infinite possibilities that are possible with enough effort, fabrication, and money. The top 2 ideas on my mind right now are

 

1. Take a front diff loc unit from an RX Tranny and modify whatever needs to be, well, modified to make it work in a Rear diff

 

2. A Tripple/Range tranny, by modifying the gear shafts to accomodate an extra low range gear. This one is the most far out of the two and would probably require major fabrication/modification.

 

Other crazy ideas

 

-a push lawn mower with a Subaru 1100cc motor set up so the bellhousing is down and a custom oiling system and intake

 

-a riding mower with a 1400 dual port motor and hydrostatic drive units for the blades and forward/reverse

 

Those are pretty much at the top of my head right now, Im sure more will come once I try to go back to sleep. Oh, and this is in the off road section because all of these ideas are obviously intended for some kind of off road use :grin:

 

-Bill

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1. rx had CENTER diff lock, to lock power split, giving it "real" 4wd

 

2. make it SUPER low, you can walk faster than it can creep

 

3. 3600 rpm: 22" cut toro "personal pace" is a good foundation, but the frame is a bit weak, ariens 911 series walk behind self propelled and push came with subaru engines, snapper 21" self propelled has the best drive system

 

4. first thought: simplicity 5216 "hydrostatic tiller" or similar is a good solid foundation with a real "frame" second thought: toro groundsmaster

 

 

why are we still awake when we should zzzzzz :rolleyes:

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Center diff lock. Darned. I need to find a locker that will fit an R-160 with just a little modification. Although, on that thought, Im sure many have already done that research, coming up empty handed.

 

Oh, low low range would be SUPER LOW, like make t case rigs look like race cars. I really hope that one is feasible, I would love to have that crawling torque.

 

I know that someone built a 350 Small Block Chevy powered chainsaw :eek:

Why not a Subaru chain saw?zzz:grin:

 

I actually do plan on building a 1400 powered riding mower, just havent decided how to hook the motor to the drivetrain yet. I like the thought of hydrostatic drive for functionality, but i also want to be able to do burnouts and wheelies with it at the WCSS's :banana: I want it to be something my kids would be scared to ride.

 

This sucks, I have to go to work in the morning. I liked my week of doing nothing. We need a smiley with a big a$$ hammer. Id use that one a lot.

-Bill

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Subarino here in Australia done that coupe/hatch light thing a few years back.

 

As for the low range, not enough room in the gearbox.

 

But if you have casing and spline cutting abilities, you could use FT4wd, or AWD gearbox and make a low range or two where the 4wd gears usually go.

You'd need to use an FT/ AWD gearbox because the front pinion isn't part of the output gear shaft on those.

 

I looked into getting r160 auto lockers made a while ago. Found a guy but he was incredibly unreliable. Lucky I didn't loose much, just a $20 diff. It is possible. But you will need $$$ and patients.

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Been discussed so much.

But yeah.

A rear locker that is selectable is #1 on my list.

I'm actually gonna be removing my welded because as much as the traction is nice. I'm sick and tired of the pain in the a** it is and dread the breakage of stuff. I'll just pick my lines better. :)

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befor I installed the EJ2.2 into my wheeler I wanted lower gears as the EA82 engine didnt have enough power, now that I have the EJ and less weight gearing is not a issue, I can go up hills that befor I had to get a run at and sometimes not make because of lack of power, I feel what I gots a good combo if you want to stay simple and stick with subaru,

 

EA82 body, dual range and axles

EJ engine

tires no larger then 28"

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keep it on hand and when you go someplace wheeling that you might need it, just swap it in. As you know it only takes like 15 min. to change. I like my LSD, it still has a lot of driveability but it does help a lot off road

 

Buggers are heavy full of fluid though. I keep gutting my Soob out to lighten it up :grin: . Plus I have a bum shoulder (shatterd scapula years ago, bothers me enough it has cost me good jobs in the past) and they are a pain for me to change in other than optimal conditions.

Thinkin' I'll just live with open for now.

This time of year the Soob somewhat becomes the DD. So I need convenience and reliability. And it sounds like someone beating my driveshaft with wrenches back there on the street right now around corners. (Axle frozen in good, heat didn't even work, other one only comes out when the diff is out, too long to clear/diff is mounted off-center)

 

The best solution. Solid axle it. :)

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My brother drives a 4runner with a rear auto locker, no problems on the road. Can't see why you'd need a selectable one, the auto "un"lockers do a brilliant job and are much easier and cheaper to make.

 

+1

 

I'd only run a selectable in the front (OX brand cable-actuated one, least stuff to fail. seen too many people SOL with failed air systems and an ARB) to allow easier tight turning. putting one in the rear is just trying to find ways to spend extra money.

 

 

if an easy r160 locker existed, it would have been used. get a beefy LSD, weld it, or put a real diff in it.

 

 

as for the gearing. no way could you fit a second low range gearset on the input shaft like stock. you might be able to move the center diff/transfer gearset back, and put another low range between the 5 speeds and the center diff like a second tcase on a toyota. but even than, it's a ton of work, for what? even if you manage a 4:1 ratio in that second reduction (no way would gears that large fit without making a substantial bulge in the case), you've still only got an 88:1.

 

I watched a 4runner go through the rock gorge at the "local" ORV park with a 250:1 crawl ratio. When rock crawling, gearing isn't about torque, it's about control.

 

 

 

the day someone finds a reasonably priced way to get a subaru over 100:1 and an auto locker in the rear, is the day I'll think about selling my 4runner and getting another subaru to use as a wheeler.

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+1

 

I'd only run a selectable in the front (OX brand cable-actuated one, least stuff to fail. seen too many people SOL with failed air systems and an ARB)

 

I 100% agree with keeping things as simple as possible to avoid breaking complex parts. However if I was going to put an ARB in a trail vehicle you had better believe that I would have all the necessary parts to repair any damage on the trail. ARB puts out a good product that people knock because they break something on the trail and didn't bring any spare parts. Not trying to argue with you, just my 2 cents.

 

Some things that have kept me up wondering have been

 

1 has anyone put airbags on their subaru?

 

2 serious fab work but fitting a Ford explorer or escape IRS rear end into a subaru. I would guess that this would lead to an increase in breaking, and possibly more gearing and lockers

 

What do you guys think?

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I 100% agree with keeping things as simple as possible to avoid breaking complex parts. However if I was going to put an ARB in a trail vehicle you had better believe that I would have all the necessary parts to repair any damage on the trail. ARB puts out a good product that people knock because they break something on the trail and didn't bring any spare parts. Not trying to argue with you, just my 2 cents.

 

Some things that have kept me up wondering have been

 

1 has anyone put airbags on their subaru?

 

2 serious fab work but fitting a Ford explorer or escape IRS rear end into a subaru. I would guess that this would lead to an increase in breaking, and possibly more gearing and lockers

 

What do you guys think?

 

a cable will outlast an air hose, every time. a carefully routed air hose won't cause too many problems, but will still be more vulnerable. and an OX is a fraction of the cost of an ARB.

 

airbags in a car that didn't have them is a bad idea. the G sensors and computers that make them all work are very carefully programmed to the car (weight of the car, location of the sensors, location of the sensors in relation to crumple zones etc.). messing with that could mean they go off to easily, or too late.

 

 

IMHO, the kind of fab work to put a different IRS system in there would be much harder than a solid axle. for less strength, less reliability, and less aftermarket support. if I'm swapping rear ends, It's a solid axle.

 

also, subaru brakes are more than adequate for the car. the fronts will need to be upgraded before the rear discs become a limiting factor.

 

and, gearing is limited by the front. getting as low as 4.444 in the rear is easy. but the front is still limited to 3.90.

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a cable will outlast an air hose, every time. a carefully routed air hose won't cause too many problems, but will still be more vulnerable. and an OX is a fraction of the cost of an ARB.

 

airbags in a car that didn't have them is a bad idea. the G sensors and computers that make them all work are very carefully programmed to the car (weight of the car, location of the sensors, location of the sensors in relation to crumple zones etc.). messing with that could mean they go off to easily, or too late.

 

 

IMHO, the kind of fab work to put a different IRS system in there would be much harder than a solid axle. for less strength, less reliability, and less aftermarket support. if I'm swapping rear ends, It's a solid axle.

 

also, subaru brakes are more than adequate for the car. the fronts will need to be upgraded before the rear discs become a limiting factor.

 

and, gearing is limited by the front. getting as low as 4.444 in the rear is easy. but the front is still limited to 3.90.

 

 

I'm pretty sure he means airbag suspension.

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  • 2 weeks later...

by the time the hatch is done it will have about 162:1 crawl ratio ..........and for about 800 bucks at that...that counts 4.44's at both ends, and the t-case.

 

the fab time is mine,the steel is not up to 30 bucks yet at scrap prices so,it is possible with time and fab ability to do it.then you have to deal with flex ..........cheers, brian

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Well, Im workin on getting me a blown RX tranny to play around with to see if i can fabricate a second set of low range gears to stuff in there. If it works, I will rebuild the tranny, stuff 4.444s in there and have a beast of a sube tranny. ATM I need a 87 3.9 D/R 5 speed to swap my current set of 4.444s into for the Beast so i can get my low range back with the 31's I have on. Then the fun begins :grin:

-Bill

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Oh, i also realized that Coupe tail lights and Hatchback tail lights are interchangeable. Im sure that someone else has already realized and accomplished this swap, but I feel like expressing my finding. :banana:

-Bill

 

I got excited when I read your post because I have both a hartop and a hatch, so I had to see if this was possible.

 

I just checked my '83 parts catalog, and I'm gonna have to disagree with your findings. It says the tail-lights are common part numbers to the 4 door and hardtop models, but the hatch uses a different backing plate.

 

I think that Subarino had found a hatch, which was never officially imported to Australia by the way, with busted tail-lights and since the car was never imported, SoAu didn't have any spares for the hatch specific stuff. To solve the no tail-light problem he modded a set of hardtop tail-lights to fit his car.

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/82375733opxCiZ?vhost=community&start=36

 

2932175780044565751S600x600Q85.jpg

 

2982755250044565751S600x600Q85.jpg

 

Can you tell I like my new scanner? :)

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Hmmm, I never thought of that, i was just lookin at how the tail light lenses had the same profile and basic shape, i didnt think about the different backing plates. Would one be able to say remove the lense from a coupe and attach them to the Hatch backing plate?

-Bill

 

I don't see why not as long as care was taken. I bet they are held on pretty good, so it might take a little while, but I bet if you had to, you could!

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