jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I found Brembo rotors at tire rack for $74, http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Loyale&autoYear=1991&autoModClar=4wd and I found some drilled slotted rotors for $99 with a lifetime warranty, I assume that covers warping, http://stores.brakeplanet.com/Items/nl037773?&caSKU=nl037773&caTitle=91-94%20SUBARU%20LOYALE%20F%20Slotted%20%26%20Drilled%20Brake%20Rotors I live near a HUGE, STEEP pass that has a habit of warping rotors. Does anyone have experience with slotted/grooved/drilled rotors? Were they more resistant to warping? I've had good luck with ATE power rotors in the past, but they are not made for my 91 loyale :-/ Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 look at what my friend SEARCH found http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92462&highlight=brembo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 I did search for "front AND disc" and "front AND rotor" and did not find that, but it doesn't look like he ended up selling them. I don't necessarily want slotted unless it prevents warping better. I'm not sure what is on the car now, but probably not brembos. Have you guys typically had god luck with brembos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 You don't need better/larger brakes, you need to learn to compression brake. SHIFT DOWN. drilled/slotted/etc rotors and expensive pads are ludicrous for a 90 HP Loyale. Wake up man. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 slotted might be nice for shedding water, IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 ...you need to learn to compression brake. SHIFT DOWN. Cute, especially coming from a flatlander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Cute, especially coming from a flatlander. Also cute - comming from guy with 20 posts. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Also cute - comming from guy with 20 posts. GD You talk s#!t about my driving based on, my post count? And I'm supposed to be grateful for your s#!t talking because why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceMan Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Jackbombay this is GD, GD this is jackbombay. Lets try and communicate in a polite fashion? :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 You talk s#!t about my driving based on, my post count? And I'm supposed to be grateful for your s#!t talking because why? "I'm an rump roast!" GD sums it up:D flatlander here also, compression barking works even if it's for the next stoplight on level road heck, it even works on a vw diesel with less than 50 hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 i'd start simple - rebuild the calipers (rebuild kits are a few dollars), grease everything, paying particular attention to the slides. flush your brake fluid. good chance that 20 year old components aren't 100%. throwing a new part at it here and there is kind of hit or miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 "I'm an rump roast!" GD sums it up:D flatlander here also, compression barking works even if it's for the next stoplight on level road heck, it even works on a vw diesel with less than 50 hp Gas or brake! What is the "heck" for? What other option is there?:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 The brakes are in good shape with the exception of the warped rotors, they were turned a few months back and they warped again pretty soon, which I was pretty much expecting. I've never been a fan of turning because of the resulting variable metal thickness, but it was cheap. Yea, its a 90 HP economy car, but the pass in question ruins car for a living. With a full tank of gas and a few people in the car 2nd gear will redline downhill if you don't use the brakes, and there is 3 miles of hill on both sides of the pass. I realize that theres no chance that nobody else here is in the same situation, but though maybe some of the turbo guys had tried the slotted rotors, or was hoping to find out if people typically have good luck with the brembos, which is what I'll probably go with at this point... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I have $21 Autozone rotors on mine, replaced them when my old ones warped. They have been good for a few years now. I also use carbon-kevlar pads, I believe these keep more heat in the pad (which can make the fluid hotter) but it saves the rotors a bit. In my opinion, turning a warped rotor is not effective. The metal has residual stress that will warp again once heat cycled. Make sure your whole system is in good shape. It might be your rear brakes aren't working right and you're overtaxing the fronts. Of course, proper technique is good too. Be sure to let off the brakes occassionally to let them cool. It's better to stop hard, let off for a couple seconds, and stop hard again, than just drag the brakes the whole time. You probably already know this. I have slotted rotors on my other car, and they probably help a bit when the brakes are actually to the point of offgassing. (Smoking) Do you smoke the brakes often? Other than that they do look cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 From what i hear, Drilled rotors tend to crack. If you do go a route like this you want slotted. As far as brembo brakes go you know they are good. But im not so sure how much price difference there is between the brembros and the duralast brand. Also, because you have an ea82 i was told that the rear drum brakes arent really much use, kinda like 90-10 distribution. It you went to a rear disc conversion which would be more like a 60-40 or a 70-30 type of brakeing system you might get some stress off you front rotors a bit. Most people on here notice a difference when they switch from drums to discs in the rear. Just something to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 i know whats alot cheaper, easier to use, and wont wear out... A PARACHUTE and if that doesn't work... spend your money on some cross drilled rotors and have them crack. get some quality brembo blank replacement rotors, and some quality pads, not auto zone junk. this coming from a guy who used to drive the grape vine daily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Yes if you could find a set of rear discs, that would make a huge difference! I love mine and saw a huge difference even without adding a proportioning valve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I find i recomend the rear discs to more people which just screws me in my effort to get a setup for myself:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I find i recomend the rear discs to more people which just screws me in my effort to get a setup for myself:confused: Yeah they are getting harder and harder to find!! I'm lucky, my Brat came with them! and that's why I noticed a difference, all my others had regular drum brakes!. Even with big tires the Brat stops great! on and off road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Also, because you have an ea82 i was told that the rear drum brakes arent really much use, kinda like 90-10 distribution. That must be why the rear pads last so long I'll look into the rear disc swap, a search certainly brings up plenty of threads on the topic! i know whats alot cheaper, easier to use, and wont wear out... A PARACHUTE and if that doesn't work... spend your money on some cross drilled rotors and have them crack. get some quality brembo blank replacement rotors, and some quality pads, not auto zone junk. this coming from a guy who used to drive the grape vine daily. Is it illegal if the chute blocks the tail lights? I'll go with some brembos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackbombay Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 I find i recomend the rear discs to more people which just screws me in my effort to get a setup for myself:confused: http://www.car-part.com is an online catalog of junk yards and you can find just about anything there, I'm not yet sure which bits and pieces you need for the rear disc swap, but I'd be surprised if you couldn't find them at car-part.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Unless Subaru designed a flawed braking system (perhaps...) I don't see why the drums would have less power than a disc. The drums are harder to service and I'd say the drums tend to work worse because they are serviced incorrectly. There is no reason drums have less inherent stopping power than a disc. I mean, 18-wheelers have drums, and they are pretty heavy, I think. A disc brake is easier to service, has better power when water logged, and better modulation. For the same diameter, a drum brake will have more power! Brembo rotors are good but I have warped Brembo rotors in the past as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Unless Subaru designed a flawed braking system (perhaps...) I don't see why the drums would have less power than a disc. The drums are harder to service and I'd say the drums tend to work worse because they are serviced incorrectly. There is no reason drums have less inherent stopping power than a disc. I mean, 18-wheelers have drums, and they are pretty heavy, I think. A disc brake is easier to service, has better power when water logged, and better modulation. For the same diameter, a drum brake will have more power! Brembo rotors are good but I have warped Brembo rotors in the past as well. Bug trucks have drum brakes but they are much bigger(actually overkill) and they also run off air. It's a little different. Take a truck driving class, it's a great way to learn about why they are used on big trucks and why they work better on big trucks and not as well on cars. Heat is the big reason!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Just a couple thoughts about brakes on old Subarus... Stay away from drilled/slotted rotors, I can't say it enough. Your wish list should look something like this: Rear: -Rear disc conversion -new BLANK brembo rotors (or whatever you want to spend $ on) -Quality pads. NOT Raysbestos or that type of common pad (Try Hawk or Axxis) -Rebuild your calipers Front: -Rear disc conversion -new BLANK brembo rotors (or whatever you want to spend $ on) -Quality pads. NOT Raysbestos or that type of common pad (Try Hawk or Axxis) -Rebuild your calipers Then go spend the money on 3 bottles of Motul RBF600 brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of over 600*F. Valvoline is a good, cheap substitute, but its DBP is closer to 500*F. Finally, I just watched a show on SPEED where a 2009 WRX stopped from 60MPH in 118 feet or so. An article I recently read on a 1975 Subaru 4WD wagon listed its 60MPH stopping distance at 120 ft... With stock four-wheel DRUM brakes. Chew on that for a while. GD, I'm also gonna have to disagree with you about the importance of brakes on a 90hp car. With brakes as small as ours are, we need as much heat sink capacity as possible, so anything you can do can and will help... Except for those pointless drilled/slotted rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I agree about not using drilled and slotted rotors on these old cars. It just doesn't make any since. A decent quality OEM rotor and some good pads will do just fine. And I also agree with replacing your fluid and making sure your calipers are working and sliding properly. It makes a huge difference if everything is properly lubed and free moving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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