The hole doesnt line up good enough to put the roll pin in. Whats with that? Tried moving it about, left and right. Its off by 1/16" maybe.

You have the splines 180 degrees out. It only lines up one way.

 

GD

you can tell the "correct" orientation by looking at the splines. on the axle pin hole, one side will have a "V" in the middle of the pin hole, the other will have a "hump" in the middle. line it up accordingly on the stubby shaft.

 

if you can't seem to get the in-and-out lined up right, try sticking a hex or something else in place enough to hold it while you drive it in from the other side.

I've tried this thing 8 ways to Sunday, no go. Can I get a grade 8 and put it in there with a squash nut?

 

This project has turned into a project.

Perhaps you have a 25 spline axle and a 23 spline stub? That's the only way I know of for them to not line up. I've installed more axles than I care to remember (several dozen anyway) and I've never had one that didn't line up with at most a 180 degree turn.

 

GD

I thought that too but the math wouldnt add up, I dont think. Its really that minute. I read the receipt I got and it said its for all EXCEPT the M/T Turbo.

 

Would a grade 8 bolt work?

I thought that too but the math wouldnt add up, I dont think. Its really that minute. I read the receipt I got and it said its for all EXCEPT the M/T Turbo.

 

Would a grade 8 bolt work?

 

I wouldn't use a grade 8 bolt - it's got no spring to it and wouldn't withstand the push and pull of the splines sliding. The roll pin has a certain amount of flex in it. It would probably work for a while but I would take the axle back if it wasn't fitting properly. That's either the wrong axle or it was machined improperly. Either is more than just possible.

 

GD

I've put a long bolt in there, heck, I've run without the pin for months on the fronts (don't do it in the back though.....there is enough play for them to fall off......go ahead, ask me how I know).

Then I'll put a rubber bolt in.

 

I contacted them. Lovely, now I get to take it apart again. Thanks for bouncing thoughts.

Does the axle fit snugly on the axle stub on the tranny? If it is loose you ave the wrong axle. the roll pin is there only to keep the axle from coming off on the the tranny axle stub, not to take the torque turning the wheels. The splines do that. You only need to rotate the axle one half rotation(180 degrees as mentioned earlier) and it will line up. If you still have the ball joint out of the spindle, just pull out on the spindle to get the axle off of the stub and rotate it. One hole in the axle has a bevel or chamfer or counter sunk hole. The other is flush with the axle. The one with the bevel is where you insert the pin, and drive it in. Don't put a smaller bolt in there, that's just lazy and dumb.

I know this is all you have to do, because just like some of the other members that have posted, I've done this enough times that I can do it mith my eyes closed.

I've done this a few times, never had an issue. I went and checked this morning. Of course it is all put back together already. I pulled the wheel, pulled the lower control arm bolt, torsion bar bolt and stabilizer bolts. Pull the stub off, rotated it 180 degrees....do I have to complete this.............

 

[sigh]

 

Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.

So did it fix the problem?

And I was going to say, you could try tapping a nail into it that is the right

size and bending the end over so it doesn't fall out.

I think it would flex enough to not shear too quickly.

Just an idea...

 

Twitch

Oh yeah, it fixed THAT problem.....now onto the next problem.

I've done this a few times, never had an issue. I went and checked this morning. Of course it is all put back together already. I pulled the wheel, pulled the lower control arm bolt, torsion bar bolt and stabilizer bolts. Pull the stub off, rotated it 180 degrees....do I have to complete this.............

 

[sigh]

 

Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.

Check the bevel on the hole; only one direction has the bevel. Match it up with the bevel on the stub axle and you'll be okay. Lesson learned. Trust me, we've all done it.

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses.....

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses.....

 

doh.

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses.....

I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.

Hey guys, what did y'all use to drive out the roll pin?

I'm working on getting my axles out of my 90 lego.

 

Twitch

I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.

 

FWIW, my experience has been that the roll pin will go in from either side. Often there is an end to a used roll pin that is more tapered than the other - but only sometimes and only on used pins. The beveled hole is easier to get the pin started in though.

 

GD

Hey guys, what did y'all use to drive out the roll pin?

I'm working on getting my axles out of my 90 lego.

 

Twitch

 

3/16" pin punch. It's actually a 5mm roll pin, but a 3/16" is close enough. Snap-On and Mac, etc sell true 5mm roll pin punches.

 

DO NOT try to use a drill bit - they will shatter.

 

GD

FWIW, my experience has been that the roll pin will go in from either side. Often there is an end to a used roll pin that is more tapered than the other - but only sometimes and only on used pins. The beveled hole is easier to get the pin started in though.

 

GD

True enough, but it's truly easier to drive the pin in from the bevelled hole and out from the other side.

From the USRM:

Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct) is the tool I use to knock out the roll pin. The right diameter and just long enough to knock out the pin without getting stuck in the hole. Plus when it wears out I get another for free from Sears.

Edited May 29, 200916 yr by edrach

Thanls Ed, and I didn't mean to start a spat over all this...

Thank you GD as well.

The craftsman 42885, got it.

Back to the original topic...

 

Twitch

Thanls Ed, and I didn't mean to start a spat over all this...

Thank you GD as well.

The craftsman 42885, got it.

Back to the original topic...

 

Twitch

 

We had a bigger spat a few months ago, about the same thing.

Different members tho

Sooo, it pays to search

DO not use a grade 8 bolt. They re very hard metal with little shear strength. They are designed to resist stretching force for a clamping type application, something where you to join two parts with enough force that they will never come apart. This is why they are sometimes called aircraft bolts. If you want to use a bolt in this application, use a grade 5, they are softer metal and designed to resist shear, or side to side force. Whatever you do, do not use a hardware store special bolt, you really are better off to just use a roll pin.

Matco tools sells a neat little designed for this purpose and it is only about $17.00. I bought one and it makes the job a lot easier.