You've got rear drum on that! That sucks. I've never seen a drum that rusted before, the ones on the Loyale aren't even that rusty! Did your car sit a lot sometime?

 

got my rrear brakes done only to find I had a stuck caliper pin and the rear parking brakes don't want to contact the inside of the rotor..

 

 

That's just the drum brakes for the e-brake, correct? It's still disk brakes for stopping.

It has Disc in the front (Which is about 70% of the stopping power) the rear Drum still grab for stopping. but yes the E-brake is connected to the rear brakes on the EJ vehicles.

 

EA vehicles had the e-brake on the front brakes.

It isn't connected to the rear brakes the same though. There's a special drum brake that is only for the e-brake. Unlike on EA cars how it actually actuates the front disc brake. Which makes tons of sense and actually makes the e-brake useful.

Just got my brush guard on... too bad it quit running, i guess it's time for a 2.2

 

Gave my snow rig the rat treatment. Bed liner fenders and doors, skull camo hood and roof.

from me for free. what pulley?

 

EDIT: im an idiot. crank pulley. would a xt pulley work? it uses a grooved belt. im off tomorrow and the next day. ill try to find something

 

if it'll fit on a EJ22 sure. they have the double serpentine belt-like setup. Lol, i should take a video of it spinning around.. terriable. I imagine it could get me back to denver but i wouldn't like it.

 

 

Thanks!

 

-Justin

AW DUDE! I HAVE FREAKING EJ18 ON MY BACK PORCH!!

 

yea ive got a pulley for you. just tell me were to go.

5B and 295 is San Jose area which is where my gf works

Repainted the custom front and rear bumpers (built by me!) Put the brat wheels back on it due to that being out of commission, and refinished the stainless steel door bottoms!

 

Swapped to some E-code headlights.

 

This was the beam pattern with my old "diamond" H4 conversion.

 

This is my new E-code beam pattern.

 

Quite pleased.

 

I drive and wheel alot at night and in alot of bad weather. So lighting is one of my most important items to always improve. (90% of my wheeling is solo midnight runs during the week, I go ready to camp if it comes to it)

 

I put 20mil clear Lamin-X on them to protect from stones and such. Philips standard H4 bulbs. (none of that useless blue crap!) The Philips I have in my DD have been in there for 5 years. I had Sylvania xtravision (not the blue ones) H4 bulbs in my other headlights in the Soob and they lasted about 4 months.

 

Ever since I first did the H4 conversion even with the crappy "diamond" housings I found the inner high beams to be redundant. And could better serve as a spot for fogs.

My Soob doesn't go fast enough to outrun the low beams as it is!

 

I also upgraded the hi and lo beam harnesses using 30 amp relays and 10 ga wire. Overkill, but it's electrical, overkill is just fine in my book.

Edited August 31, 201015 yr by TeamCF

I also upgraded the hi and lo beam harnesses using 30 amp relays and 10 ga wire. Overkill, but it's electrical, overkill is just fine in my book.

 

good deal! Could you show me a diagram?

good deal! Could you show me a diagram?

 

I'd have to put it together.

I referenced this: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

And modified it to my wants/needs.

 

I actually made two totally separate harnesses for high and low beam.

1. it kept it simple.

2. it keeps it easy to work on out on the trail in the middle of the night in a thunderstorm....

 

Depending on your Soob. You'll have to take into account things like the fact that the EA81's are common +, switched -.

But the harness kind of makes that not really matter. as long as you hook up to the two triggering terminals, the relay could care less about which is which.

 

I figured out which terminals on the outer headlight plug needed to be tapped into for the low beam. (used flat "spade" connectors right into the plug with lots of Dielectric grease and electrical tape for protection.)

And then just tapped right into the inner high beam headlight plug for the high beam.

That was just to trigger the relays.

 

Both harnesses share a common ground. And each has it's own fuse on the + wires from the battery.

With - going right to the - terminal on the bulb. And + going through each relay and then to either the high or low beam as needed.

 

The most expensive part was buying the two H4 headlight plugs!

 

This is what my low beam harness looks like all in wire loom and such.

You can see each - wire coming off each plug.

You can see the + with fuse and eye terminal to hook to the battery.

And the two blue wires from the relay go into the stock headlight plug to trigger it.

That old Hella Relay has since burned out and I replaced it with a 30 amp one from Napa or something. Was like $5.

 

Just remember solder and shrinkwrap are your friends to make it last.

And the dielectric grease to keep corrosion away from plugs.

And have a multimeter handy. It will help in determining +/- and so on. Makes life easier.

Once you test a few things and dive in it all makes sense.

I forget which is which now on the bulbs as far as terminals go and it's all sealed up at this point and buried. (not much room behind the lights on mine. I have to go in from the front to change a bulb.) But I've seen diagrams of which is which for hi/lo/neg and so on for bulbs online. Also I double checked with a couple alligator clips from the battery to just see which filament lit up.

 

But yeah the wiring upgrade alone seemed to double the brightness of the headlights. At first when I did the H4 conversion I just made adapter plugs for the stock wiring. Stock, almost 30 year old wiring is crap. The lights got way brighter once I did the harnesses.

Even the stock 4656 sealed beams would proly get a boost from better wire feeding them.

Edited August 31, 201015 yr by TeamCF

got that stuck caliper pin out with some crazy work but it finally came out.. things I need to do is get my struts installed before winter because riding on snow with blown struts this past snow season was something else..

 

Built a SWEET 3.7 5 speed EJ trans with EA non viscus tail shaft for my moms 87 was turbo sedan getting ready to put the 2.2 in and not need an adapter plate or redrilled flywheel so exited to put it in!!!!

 

Rob

I'd have to put it together.

I referenced this: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

And modified it to my wants/needs.

 

I actually made two totally separate harnesses for high and low beam.

1. it kept it simple.

2. it keeps it easy to work on out on the trail in the middle of the night in a thunderstorm....

 

 

Good deal man! I love wiring up stuff for my car.

Built a SWEET 3.7 5 speed EJ trans with EA non viscus tail shaft for my moms 87 was turbo sedan getting ready to put the 2.2 in and not need an adapter plate or redrilled flywheel so exited to put it in!!!!

 

Rob

 

I totaly want to see this! Isn't it great having extra Subaru parts!

lol thats whats funny it just looks like a shorter EJ trans. and with the turbo splines you can put it in most legacys and imprezas. it would take the front half of an ea driveshaft swaped with the front of the EJ one because its longer but i think a RWD impreza would be fun.

 

Rob.

Yeah whatever happened to the rear wheel drive impreza idea aka Toyoruu or Subyota?

ADDED A REAR DEFLECTOR: After looking and thinking I just went for it.

I may have to repaint it a flat black to get a better match of the faded trim.

I like the rear air....thing on your wagon, looks like it would be great for dirty dusty roads. Where did you find the components.

 

I installed the rear portion of my 2 inch lift, finished my weber conversion and re-organized my storage trunk in the back. Getting ready for winter equipment.

 

Mike

Those rear air deflectors were on most of the GL-10 wagons and some GL wagons. Their pretty easy to come by and do look good on them!

 

What tyres do you have on there?

finally got the damn lower balljoints out!! friken balljoints were pretty much rusted in place.. I was jumping up and down on my picklefork.. heat did help get it out.

 

having said that my aliment is off now.. drivers side I did my eyesight which was pretty much spot on but not so with the passenger side.

finally got the damn lower balljoints out!! friken balljoints were pretty much rusted in place.. I was jumping up and down on my picklefork.. heat did help get it out.

 

having said that my aliment is off now.. drivers side I did my eyesight which was pretty much spot on but not so with the passenger side.

 

There is only Lower Ball joints on any Subaru (Since theres no upper control arm aka A-arm)

 

Did you replace the tierod ends or the Balljoints? There should be no reason your alinement would be off if you just replaced the Balljoints.

There is only Lower Ball joints on any Subaru (Since theres no upper control arm aka A-arm)

 

Did you replace the tierod ends or the Balljoints? There should be no reason your alinement would be off if you just replaced the Balljoints.

 

I replaced the driver's side like a month ago and I did the passenger side today along with both ball joints.

Oh ok, that explains it Lol.

 

I'm gonna need to replace that V'ed tie-rod on mine soon.