Rust Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 I've tried heating it w/ a torch, pipe wrench/breaker bar, ect. I don't think it was welded to the pan (at least I hope not) any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Had the oil changed once in Alaska. Next time I went to do it myself. Tried every tool I had to include a 24" pipe wrench I couldn't loosen it. Took car back to the shop that last changed the oil and got the "can't be anything we did" runaround. Took car to another shop. left it and somehow they got it out. Have no idea how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmiller Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 try a good high torque impact gun. :Flame:its probably what they put it on with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 try a little heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I've tried heating it w/ a torch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 ...Have no idea how. Some Amount of Penetratin` Oil like PB Blaster + some Hits to the Plug can loosen it and Help to Remove it out. My EA82 Warrior had similar Problems with the Drain Plug at the Oil Pan, but then the fault was a Weared Plug, it had Round Corners and the tool Failed to Grip... So I Removed Both Battery Cables and Welded Right to the Plug, a Huge Nut from a Truck`s Bolt; then was Easy to Hold the Plug with a Bigger Tool. Maybe Both Ideas can Help you... Good Luck! Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 if you do get it out you may want to install either a new plug or even one of those easy drain plugs that you just open a valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 they must have torqued it to the specs "he:grin:lla tight" as well as probably crossthreaded.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 It will definately need a new crush washer when it goes back on. Take off the skid plate. Use visegrips, really tight. Hit them with a hammer. Or a pipewrench and hammer. You may be able to salvage the plug, but it won't be 17 mm across the flats anymore. Is there one of those plugs with a valve for Loyales? I couldn't find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I've had drainplugs that Jiffy Lube has put back in prior to me doing the next oilchange and had to use my impact hammer to get it to come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I've had drainplugs that Jiffy Lube has put back in prior to me doing the next oilchange and had to use my impact hammer to get it to come out. And the lesson was?? Never go to Jiffy Lube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 got it out by cutting it out 1/3 of the lip w/ a cut wheel and then pipe wrenching it. luckilly it wasn't cross threaded and i put another plug in it. I'd love to meet the swifty tech who torqued the crap out of it wherever the previous owner brought it to for an oil change, and thank him for turning a 20 minute oil change into a 2 hour knuckle-buster for me.....F-Jiffy Lube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 F-Jiffy Lube I couldn't agree more. A couple of years ago I bought an older Honda. The fellow I got the car from had the oil changed the day before I picked up the car. Stopped on my way home, and happened to notice an unusually large amount of oil under the car. Huh, I thought, as the car didn't leak when I looked at it a few days earlier. Crawled under neath, and the drain plug was finger tight, working its way loose. Found a pair of plires in the trunk, and a quart of oil and was able to get home. If I hadn't of stopped though, that motor would have been toast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 The way to do this in the future is to take an old axle nut, weld it to the drain plug, and get your 36mm+1/2" breaker bar out. The heat of the welding helps knock it loose and the 36mm nut will give you more purchase than the wimpy 17mm. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbob99 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Is there one of those plugs with a valve for Loyales? I couldn't find one. http://www.fumotousa.com/ Just about all Subaru's came with the same drain plug. These Fumoto's are good valves, I see a lot of them. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 (edited) I have reviewed the suggestions given, and having a lot of experience with stuck bolts, this one (quoted from the previous poster) is definitely the BEST: 'Some Amount of Penetratin` Oil like PB Blaster...' YES! This one works almost every time, but you have to do it right, and be patient. Spray all around the bolt. Wait one hour. Spray it again. Wait a half hour. Spray it AGAIN and try it ten minutes later. Also: Pushing and pulling won't work. Get a good 1/2" socket wrench and the proper socket, or a breaker bar attached to the proper socket. Tap on the end of the breaker bar with a small sledge hammer. Not too hard...the idea is to 'shock' it loose, not snap off the head of the bolt. With patience and time, I have freed many a tight bolt this way without damaging the bolt. If this doesn't work, you may have to remove the oil pan. After cleaning out all the black gunk inside the pan, then you can apply the spray from the INSIDE and let it run down for a few hours into the bolt threads. BTW...PB Blaster works a LOT better than 'Liquid Wrench'. After doing this, if the bolt still wont come loose, you have two choices. First, you can re-install the pan with a new gasket and new oil and try again. Second...you can drill out the center of the bolt while the pan is out of the car. Your choice. An in-between alternative is to re-install the pan, but don't tighten up the bolts so much that they compress the new pan gasket, and don't put in the new oil yet (of course) ...and then try to remove the bolt. If it comes off, you are good to go. You can then tighten up the pan bolts, and put in the new oil...and install a NEW oil pan bolt. I would dump the old one in any case. Can't trust it not to get stuck a second time... Edited September 25, 2009 by Robert M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Matco 36" breaker bar. works for me everytime. That, a 17mm socket and alittle maninit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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